/0/6604/coverbig.jpg?v=20210813192149)
Journal towards Assam and to Bootan-contains notes on distribution of Plants.
Left Calcutta a second time on the 31st August 1837, arrived at Serampore on the 1st September, and spent the day with the Voights.
September 3rd.-Continue on the Hooghly: paddy cultivation prevails and Crotalaria juncea; this last is sown broadcast in low places, but not quite so low as paddy. Bengallees are but slovenly husbandmen; grass, etc. collected by them in small cocks, and covered with a small thatch, which answers its purpose as well as a narrow brimmed hat would answer that of an umbrella. Broken earthenware not unfrequently visible in the banks, in some places at the depth of 3-4 feet. Unsettled weather, with gusts of strong wind from the S. and SSE. Thermometer 78° 82'. The usual Calcutta birds continue, jackdaw-like crow, Falco pondicherainus, two common mainas, Ardea indica, and the white one.
Came on the Ganges about noon; on passing Chobda had the horror of seeing the bodies of burning Hindoos, the friends who are present at these funeral rites turning them about with sticks, so as to give each side its share of fire. The women bathe in their ordinary dresses: these though ample are of fine cotton fabric, so that when wet more of the shape is disclosed than is deemed desirable in Europe, but exposure of person has no repugnant effect on Asiatics.
The Matabangah is a small, very tortuous, stream, not exceeding 70 yards in breadth: the banks are low, either wooded to the edge or covered with grass, such as Cynodon. Excellent pasturage prevails, as indicated by the number of cows.
Monday 4th.-Wind SE. There are not many villages in the vicinity of the river; passed yesterday Kranighat, where there is a toll, from which officers on duty are exempt; but as no precautions seem to be taken to keep the river clear, no toll whatever should be taken: although the latter is high, the receipts must be very small. Passed Arskally about noon, the banks are composed occasionally of pure sand, and the country becomes more open, with very little jungle, much indigo cultivation occurs. Thermometer 78° 85'.
Tuesday, 5th.-Wind SW. The country continues the same as before. At 2 P.M., we reached Krishnapoor.
Wednesday, 6th.-8 A.M. We left the Matabangah river and entered a less tortuous nullah. The country continues the same. Much indigo cultivation still occurs. We saw yesterday evening a large herd of cows swim across the Matabangah; they were led by a bull, who kept turning round every now and then to see whether his convoy was near him. Today I saw a rustic returning from his labours, with his plough thrown easily across his shoulders; to a strong Englishman the feat of walking home with such a plough, cattle, and all would not be very difficult. Indigo is cut about a foot from the ground, then tied in bundles. Water for steeping it in is raised from the rivers by something like chair-buckets, only the buckets are represented by flat pieces of wood, the whole is turned on an axle by the tread of men; the water is carried upon an inclined narrow plane; the machine answers its purpose very well, and the natives work it with great dexterity. At 5 P.M., we came on a stream 100 yards wide, down which we proceeded.
Thursday, 7th.-The country continues much the same. Of birds the black and white peewit is not uncommon;-cormorants, etc. also occur. P.M. Thermometer 90°.
Friday, 8th.-The country is more low and more sub-divided by rivers than before. Abundance of indigo. Pumps also used, as before observed, for raising water. Passed Moodoo Kully at 5 P.M., and left its river for a small nullah. Indigo abundant on all sides throughout the day's journey.
Saturday, 9th.-Continue in this nullah. Country wooded. Ph?nix sylvestris very abundant: Areca Catechu also becoming abundant. A good deal of cultivation occurs, mottled chiefly with sugar-cane and vegetables. The habits of the black and white kingfisher, Alcedo rudis, are different from those of the other Indian species: it never perches, choosing rather the ground to rest upon: it builds in banks: takes its prey by striking it from a height of 20 feet or thereabouts, previously fluttering or hovering over it. The size and figure of this bird when resting on the ground, resembles the two common Indian Terns.
Palms, contrary to what might be supposed from the nature of these plants, can put forth additional buds;-this is exemplified in ph?nix sylvestris, the stems of which are deeply and alternately notched by the natives for procuring toddy. When this is carried to a great extent, the tree either dies or a new apex is formed laterally. The old notches, as might be expected, at length, become much obliterated. It is from the study of such palms that much light will be thrown on the growth of monocotyledonous stems. The vegetation of jheels is now obviously commencing. Pistia stratioles, Nymph?a, Potamogeton, Potamochloa, Oplismenus stagninus, and Villarsia occur. Reached Furreedpore at 7 P.M.
Sunday, 10th.-Came on the Paddo, an immense stream 1? miles wide, with a very strong current, about a mile to the East of Furreedpore. Lagerstr?mia Regina here occurs.
Monday, 11th.-The country is become much lower since leaving Furreedpore, and is inundated during the height of the rains. The peculiar vegetation of jheels predominant; that of the jungle continues much the same. Plhugoor continues plentiful. No palmyras. Mangoes plentiful, but small. Passed a deserted Roman Catholic Chapel, and Priest's house. White-winged long-nailed water-hens becoming plentiful.
Tuesday, 12th.-The country abounds more in jheels: in many places nothing is visible but water, in which huge plains of floating grasses occur. The villages are very numerous, and occupy in fact almost every spot of ground not subject ordinarily to inundation. Damasonium Indicum, Nymph?a pubescens occur in profusion. The grass which exists in such vast quantities is, I believe, Oplismenus stagninus. The water of these jheels is clear, black when deep, which it often is to a great extent.
Wednesday, 13th.-Reached Dacca about 2 P.M.: it is a large and populous place. The numerous grass of the jheels is sown there: it is the red bearded dhan or paddy grass: of this vast quantities are cut for fodder, for, the whole face of the country being overflowed, it follows that the cattle are throughout the rains kept in stalls.
Thursday, 14th.-Left about noon, and proceeded down the Dacca river about 5 miles, then diverged into a narrow creek running nearly south. Along this were observed fine specimens of tamarind trees. Stravadium in abundance. Sonninia scandens, and Mango, both in abundance. Passed at 5 P.M. Neerangunge, a large native town, and below it Luckepoor. A vast expanse of water appeared near this, viz., the Megna. A good deal of native shipping occurs, consisting of brigs: great quantities of rice being exported from both places. Pelicans I observed here to roost in trees.
Friday, 15th.-In the midst of jheels: the whole face of the country is covered with water several feet deep. Vast quantities of Oplismenus stagninus still occur.
Saturday, 16th.-Still in jheels. The same features continue. The country is still very populous, all the more elevated spots having villages. Oplismenus stagninus still prevails in vast quantities.
Sunday, 17th.-Jheels in every direction:-nothing indeed seen but water, with occasional grassy or reedy, and elevated spots occupied by villages:-here and there a round-headed tree springing apparently out of the water. Hills visible to the east. Cormorants, Ciconia nudiceps, paddy-birds, the common white ones with black feet, are abundant, and associate in flocks: there is one very nearly allied to this, which is solitary, having black feet with yellow toes. The boats of this district are very simple, something like a Bengal dingy reversed, but they are sharp in the bows and ought to be fast; their only mode of progression is to be pushed along by means of poles. There appears to be a great number of Mussulmans, who would here seem to form the majority of the population. Strong winds from the south interrupt our progress.
Monday, 18th.-Delayed by bad weather.
Tuesday, 19th.-Continued to pass through same kind of country, but less jheelly. The Cook boat was left behind on the 17th in a squall, and has not come up yet, so that I dine with the boatmen.
The black and white long-toed water-hen continues plentiful: when alarmed by kites, etc. it pursues them uttering a low mournful scream, until it has succeeded in getting its enemy off to some distance; it then returns, I suppose to its young; otherwise its cry is something like the mewing of a cat, or rather a low hollow moan. The hills are plainly visible to-day, lying towards the north.
The males of the white and black water-hen have tails something like those of a pheasant. There are two other species: one that is found on the Tenasserim coast; the other is much larger,-the size, of a large domestic fowl: one of the sexes, has red wattles on its head. The white and black one is far the most common; it feeds apparently, in flocks: the Maulmain one is the least common. These with Ardea Indica, the white, black-toed, yellow-beaked Ardea, Ciconia nudiceps a small brown chat?, Pica vagabunda, are the birds of the jheels or rather the dry spots in them. I saw yesterday a flock of the black Ibis, flying in a triangle (>) without a base, the party was headed by one of the white paddy-birds! Villages have become very numerous, and the population abundant and flourishing. The cattle are, as I have said, stalled and fed with paddy grass, quantities of boats being employed for its conveyance. Oplismenus stagninus appears less common about here.
Thursday, 21st.-Still among jheels; our progress is necessarily very slow; we are indeed scarcely moving, there being no tracking ground: jheels occur in every direction, although the hills are not 15 miles distant. Pelicans with white and black marked wings occur, together with the slate-colored eagle with white tail, barred at tip with black; it is common in the low wooded places surrounded by jheels. Black-bellied Tern occurs, but not that of Assam.
Friday, 22nd.-Arundo and two species of Saccharum occur, among which S. spontaneum, is very common and of large size. We reached the Soorma river about 12 o'clock, 3 or 4 miles above Mr. Inglis's house.
I arrived at Chattuc on the 21st, which place I left for Pundoa the following day. There are no mountains of this name as would seem from the habitat of some plants given in Roxburgh's Flora Indica. The mountains therein called Pundoa are the Khasya or Cossiah range; Pundoa, is the name of a village called by the natives Puddoa. The jheels are for a great part under cultivation. The paddy cultivation is of two kinds; it is either sown in the jheels just at the commencement of the inundation, or it is sown on higher portions, and then transplanted into the jheels. Jarool, Lagerstr?mia Regina is the chief timber, it comes from Kachar; it is a dear and not a durable wood.
Dalbergia bracteata, first appears, on low hills about Chattuc; there is also a Grimmia here on the river banks.
Porpoises are often seen in the Soorma; alligators or crocodiles, very rarely.
Jheels continue nearly to the foot of the mountains; these last are not wooded more than half way up; the remaining wood being confined to ravines, the ridges appearing as if covered with grass. Here and there, scarped amphitheatres are visible, down which many fine cascades may be seen to fall.
Arrived at Mr. Inglis's Bungalow at Pundoa about 3 P.M., and here regulated my thermometers; temperature of boiling water taken with the large thermometer 210?°, by means of the one in wooden case 210?°, temperature of the air 92?°, red case thermometer indicated the boiling point at 206°!! nor would the mercury rise higher.
Saturday, 23rd.-Commenced the ascent, from Terya Ghat. Up to which point the country is perfectly flat low and wet, covered for a great part with gigantic Sacchara; among which partridges are common. Osbeckia nepalensis, Marlea begonifolia, Gouania, Bignonia Indica, a Panax, Byttneria, Hedysarum gyrans, Pueraia, Mimosa stipulacea, a very large Rottboellia, Bauheni? 2, Bombax, Tetranthera arborea, Grewia sepiaria may all be observed. On the Terya river among stones, and where it is a pure mountain stream Eugenia salicifolia, as in the Upper Kioukdweng, between Terya and the foot of the hills occurs; Alstonia, Ophioxylon, Trophis aspera, Urtica naucleiflora, Varec? sp. Impatiens in abundance, oranges in groves occur; at the foot Cryptophragmium venustum; rather higher, Argostemma, and Neckera are common; ?schynanthus fulgens, jack and sooparee commonly cultivated. Then Oxalis sensitiva, a small tender Lycopodium; pine-apples, Pogonatherum crinitum; Gordonia soon commences, probably at 400 feet. Polytrichum aloides appears on banks with Gordonia; Eurya commences above the first cascade. Choripetalum, Modecca, Sonerila about two-thirds up to Mahadeb, and Commelina, C. bengalensis, and Anatherum muricatum continue to Mahadeb, as also Andropogon acicularis, the Impatiens, etc. No change takes place, in fact the vegetation being all tropical. Up to this place thick tree jungle continues; the ridges sometimes are covered with grass, either Saccharum, Anthistiria arundinacea or Manisuris; scarcely any oaks occur. Euonymus occurs at Mahadeb. Beyond Mahadeb the scene becomes changed especially after surmounting the first ridge, the face of the hills is covered with grasses, interspersed with rocks; the clumps of wooded vegetation being small, irregular, and composed of barren looking stunted trees.
Above this ridge the country puts on the appearance of a table land. At Mahadeb, Staurogyne, Ruellia Neesiana, and Cryptophragmium are common, a little above these is a species of Zalacca; Impatiens bracteata is very common from near the foot to beyond Mahadeb; but it becomes small and disappears before Moosmai is reached. Cymbidium bambusifolium commences 600 feet above Mahadeb. Linum trigynum commences at Mahadeb; Scutellaria a little above, but I have found this at the foot.
Dianella is found 1,000 feet above Mahadeb, as also Camellia candata; Plantago, and Eriocaulon 2 sp. appear about 500 feet above Mahadeb; and continue to Churra. Randia, the common one, is found up to 4,000 feet. Cinchona gratissima appears at Moosmai. The first Viburnum, also occurs here. Impatiens graminifolia a little lower. Salomonia, which appears half way to Mahadeb, continues to Moosmai and Churra, but is stunted.
Vaccinium, Ceratostemma, Crotalaria Hoveoides, Gnaphalia appear towards Moosmai. Wendlandia at Moosmai. Ruellia persic?folia straggles a little lower than these. Smithia commences at Moosmai; Pandanus also; this is excessively common on hills to the left, towards the caves. Dipsacus commences above Moosmai.
Monday, 25th.-Churra is situated in a plain surrounded in every direction by low rounded hills, except to the E. and SE., on which side there is a deep ravine, the whole plateau rising considerably towards the north, in the direction of Churra itself. Ravines exist here and there; it is along these, and the water-courses, that the only woody vegetation is to be found. The rest of the surface is clothed with grasses, of which a number of species exist, they are chiefly Andropogone?. Two or three Osbeckias exist; a Tradescantia (T. septem clavata) covers certain patches with its bright blue flowers. Three species of Impatiens, two with bright pink flowers are common. Spathoglottis, and Anthogonum occur on the flat rocks, which frequently prevail; Arundinaria is seen every where as well as a Smithia? with lotus-like blossoms. With regard to birds, the Motacilla or water-wagtails are seen at Churra and at Pundoa, are generally of yellow colour in place of white.
The woody vegetation consists of Berberis, Viburnum, Bucklandia, Cleyera floribus fragrantis, petalis sepalis oppositis, Myrsine and many others, too numerous indeed to mention.
The woods, towards Churra, assume that rounded and very determinate form, which is seen so commonly in some parts of England, Bucks for instance. None of the trees arrive to any great size. The generality are low, rounded, and stunted. It is in these, that Quercus, Viburnum, and Pandanus may be seen growing side by side.
October 4th.-Took the height of the station, which I make to be 3,921 feet; temperature 74°; water boiled at 205°; in the small metal thermometer 198°! centigrade 97°; large metal 205?°; wooden scale 204°.
October 5th.-Left for Surureem. On the first height on which the village is situated, a Potentilla is to be found, and this becomes more abundant as we continue to ascend. The next European form that appears, is Fragaria, the height of which may be estimated at 4,200 feet, this too becomes more common as we ascend; Caryota may be seen, or at least, a palm tree, in ravines as high as 4,000 feet; Daucus appears at 4,300 feet in grassy plains; Prunella at about the same, Gerardia at 4,500 feet; Gaultheria and an Impatiens with very small yellow flowers at 4,800 feet, as well as Othonna.
With the exception of these, the vegetation is much the same as that about Churra: but the Balsams of that place disappear almost towards Surureem, as well as the Tradescantia 7-clavata. Plants which are not in flower about Churra, are found towards Surureem in perfection.
After the first considerable ascent is surmounted, and which is probably 4,750 feet, the country becomes more barren, the grass more scanty and less luxuriant. Spathoglottis, and Anthogonium disappear; Xyris continues in abundance, likewise Eriocaulons, especially the middling-sized one; Bucklandia becomes more common and more developed; a frutescent Salix commences at 4,800 feet, as well as a Gramen Avenaceum vel Bromoideum.
Surureem is a small village, 100 feet above the rude bungalow, provided for the few travellers who pass this way; close to it is to be found Zanthoxylum and Hemiphragma, which last commences at Moosmai. The simple leaved Rubus of Churra, petalis minutis carneis, has ceased; a trifoliate one foliis cordato-rotundatis, existing instead. Most of the grasses continue, but all are comparatively of small stature. Two new Andropogonoids make their appearance: of Composit?, a Tussilaginoid and a stout Senecionidea, the former not uncommon about Churra, but out of flower. Salomonia ceased.
The height of Surureem I calculate at 4,978 feet; temperature 65° Fahr.; of centigrade 19°; water boiled at 95?° of centigrade; 203° Fahr., wooden scale; 203?° large metal; small ditto 195?°! Temperature of the air at 6 P.M., 63°.
October 6th.-Temperature 6 A.M., 63?°. Left for Moflong. There is a considerable rise at first, then the country is tolerably level until one reaches the Kala Panee, the descent to this is about 7 or 800 feet, thence the rise is great, with a corresponding descent to the Boga Panee, which I estimate at 4,457 feet, and which is certainly 1,000 feet below the highest ground passed on this side of the Kala Panee. After crossing this torrent, by means of a miserably unsteady wooden bridge, the ascent is very steep for about 1,200 feet, thence there is a small descent to Moflong, which I find to be 5,485 feet. Most of the plants continue. Tradescantia and Commelina become much less common towards the Kala Panee, as well as the Impatiens of Churra, but their place is supplied by others. Along 100 yards of the Kala Panee, upwards of four species may be met with. Polygonum (Bistorta) becomes more common on the higher ground between Surureem and Kala Panee, thence diminishing in size and frequency. Polygonum Rheoides becomes abundant towards a height of 5,200 feet, when Pyrus, an apple-like species, and Spir?as make their appearance at 5,300 feet. On the Kala Panee, Bucklandia re-appears, but thence would seem to cease: on the brow of the ascent from this, Pedicularis appears in abundance among grasses, with it Sphacele? At the same height, which cannot be less than 5,400 feet, Carduus or Cnicus, appears. Solidago commences in the valley of the Kala Panee, but becomes more abundant at higher elevations. Sanguisorba appears at 5,400 feet, but in small quantities, and at this height Anisadenia recommences. Epilobium appears at 5,300 feet, continues at the same elevation to Moflong, where it is common. On the descent to the Boga Panee, an European form of Euphorbia appears at 5,000 feet with Viola Patrinia and a Galium asperum. Hieracium appears at about the same height. Cuscuta is very common from 5 to 5,500 feet, continuing even to Moflong; the scales of this genus are, it appears to me, mere appendages of the filaments, and not due to non-development or suppression of parts. Erythrina, which is found about Churra, is seen on the road to Kala Panee, apparently quite wild; altitude 5,200 feet: it recommences at Moflong, where it is common about villages, but never exceeds the size of a small tree. Commelina bengalensis? continues throughout here and there, and may be found even about Moflong.
The most striking change occurs, however, in the Pines, which, although of small stature, exist in abundance on the north side of the Boga Panee; so far as may be judged of by the naked eye, they disappear on this side, about a mile to the westward, very few cross the torrent, and few indeed are found 100 feet above its bed on the south side. I took the height of the bed of this torrent. Temperature of the air 72°; water boiled at 204°; which gives the height about 4,400 feet. Between Surureem and the Boga Panee, many new plants occur; grasses continue, as also at Moflong, the prevailing feature. The principal new ones occur on the descent, consisting of two large Andropogons, one closely allied to A. sch?ranthus and a tall Anthistiria habitu A. arundinacea; a beautiful Saccharum occurs here and there, especially before reaching the Kala Panee and the Gramina Bromoidea, which is the only really European form. On the Kala Panee, scarcely any Podostemon griffithia; except a few small ones, very few signs or appearance of fresh plants. Along the Boga Panee, among the wet rocks which form its banks, a fine Parnassia; a trailing Arbutoidea; a very European looking Quercus; Anesadenia pubescens, a Circ?a, Campanul? 2, ?schynomene, Crotalaria, a Serissa?; this last continuing to Moflong, a fine Osbeckia, and Gnaphalium aereonitus may likewise be found. On the ascent, few new plants occur; Rhinanthoidea, Osbeckia nepalensis, and capitata, Conyzoidea, Dipsacus, Gnaphalium foliis linearibus, Crotolaria hoveoides, Colutoidea, Pteris (Aquilina.) Scutellaria, Potentilla, Smilax occur at 5,000 feet with Plantago, Fragaria and Artemisia, as well as lower down. The most striking plant is a Delphinium, which, at about 5,000 feet, occurs stunted; this is common about Moflong.
Agrimonia range from 3,500 to 5,500 feet, where they are very common, Hypericum three sorts occur, H. myrtifolium commences, about Churra, re-occurs here and there on the road to Moflong, about which it is very common. H. ovalifolium, is more elevational, scarcely descending below 5,000 feet; H. japonicum is found from towards Mahadeb to Moflong; H. fimbriatum foliis decussatis, scarcely below 5,000 feet; Leucas galea brunneo villosa on grassy hills is common towards Boga Panee, and continues as high as Moflong.
Quercus commences about Mahadeb: a new species occurs on the edge of woods towards the Kala Panee; altitude 5,000 feet; it nearly commences with two Rhododendra, which, at least the arborescent one, arrives at perfection on the Kala Panee.
Viburna continue; Salix (fruticose) commences about 5,000 feet, continues here and there to Moflong. Buddleia Neemda is found about Churra, but not commonly; and soon disappears. B. 4-alata commences beyond the Churra Punjee, and continues as far as Moflong.
Thibaudia buxifolia becomes less common beyond 5,000 feet; other forms of Ericine? appear in places about 5,000 feet, Gaultheria continuing as far as Moflong. Eurya species alterum, commences about the same elevation, continuing to Moflong.
Three species of Spir?a are found between Surureem and Moflong, none perhaps below 5,000 feet; Prunella occurs about the same height, continuing as far as Moflong.
On crossing the Boga Panee, the country becomes perhaps more undulated and much more barren, scarcely any arborescent vegetation is to be seen, the little woody vegetation consisting of stunted shrubs. Immediately around Moflong, the country is excessively bare, not a tree is to be seen, even the sides of ravines being clothed with stunted shrubs. Berberis asiatica, Viburna, Spir?a bella? Eurya camellifolia, Betula corylifolia.
To the north, fine woods are seen, and to the east, fir woods, the nearest being about 4 miles off. The village is small and wretchedly dirty, the paths being the worst of all I have seen on these hills. The houses and the adjoining fields are surrounded with hedges of Colquhounia, Erythrina, Buddl?a.
In waste places Colquhounia micrantha, Cysticapnos, Verbesina, Pteris, Davallia, etc. are to be found, as well as Codonopsis viridiflora. The hills are covered with low grass, almost a sward. On this, Potentilla, Agrimonia, Geranium as well as in fields, Pisoideum floribus cyaneis, Campanula, Aster disco azureo may be found; on low spots a very small Parnassia, and a still smaller Isch?mum.
Ranunculus, one species, but this is uncommon; Delphinium is common in thickets, etc.
The only cultivation is potatoes, a few years since introduced, and which answers admirably, some turnips and Glycine tuberosa. Cattle, goats and pigs abundant.
On the whole this is to be considered as the place where the peculiar vegetation of Churra, arrives at its boundary, for although many of the plants of the plains are to be found, they are all in a dwarf state.
Noticed a Hoopoo, but birds in general are not frequent.