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Continues the Journey towards Assam and Bootan.
The annexed table of the distributions of plants in relation to altitudes of the Khasyah mountains may render the subject of the preceding observations more clear and distinct. The dotted line along the left hand margin represents the elevation of the mountains, the greater height of which is something better than 6,000 feet.
October 8th.-Visited the fir wood, which is about three miles to the eastward; the road runs over the same downey ground. The first plant that appears is a Boreal Euphorbia, allied to that previously mentioned. A Sanguisorba of large stature occurs in low wet places. Epilobum not uncommon. The Pines appear first straggling, and they only form a wood in one place, and even there not of much extent; none are of any size. Musci Lichens and fungi abound in the wood, as also Circ?a and Herminium?
Osbeckia Nepalensis, Hedychia 2, a small Goodyera, Tricyrtis Hedera, Polygonum, Polypodium, Gaultheria, Viburnum, Thibaudiacea fructibus gratis, subacidis. Eurya, Valeriana, Quercus, may likewise be found. Salix occurs on the skirts in low places. The hills around are clothed with grasses, among which is a large Airoidea; in the low valleys between these, intersected with small water-courses, three species of Juncus, a curious Umbellifera fistulosa, and Mentha verticillata, occur. Another Hypericum is likewise found in lately cleared places.
Some cultivation occurs about the place on the slopes of hills, chiefly of a Digitaria, sown broadcast, and tied up in bundles when nearly ripe; together with Glycine tuberosa, and Coix Lacryme.
To the eastward the hills become more rocky, affording little vegetation, the chief plant is an Othonnoidea; another Herminioidea, and a Habenariod, both out of flower, may be found, the former on hills, the latter in low places; a tall Campanula was among the new plants, and an Umbellifera with curious foliage.
The height of this ridge is 5,768 feet, the temperature being 74°, and water boiling at 201?°.
Took the elevation of Moflong bungalow. Temperature of the air 65°; water boiled at 202?°; this gives 5,410 feet.
There are several high rounded hills about this place, (one to the south of the Boga Panee,) the generality of which are more elevated than those on the northern side; the most conspicuous is the hill near Moleem, the north face of which is wooded, and which is at least 1,000 feet above Moflong.
8 P.M. Temperature 58?°. 5 P.M. 65°.
October 9th.-Rain as usual in the morning. Thermometer at 7 A.M., 58?°.
October 10th.-A fine bracing cold morning, with the thermometer at 53?°. 7 A.M. left for Myrung. The march to Syung is uninteresting, passing over precisely the same country as that about Moflong, with vegetation much the same. A tall Carduaceous tree with pink flowers was found in the swampy bottoms of the valleys. About Syung, a seneciois tree foliis angustissimus. It is about this place that the sides of the ravines become clothed with forest, and from this northward, Pines increase in abundance. Anthistiria speculis villosissimis continues here and there; a good deal of cultivation passed on the road, especially under Syung to the south, where there is a large valley. The chief cultivation appears to be Coix, Glycine, and some rice, but the produce seemed very small. At the foot of Syung on the north side, large tufts of Juncus occur, and on the first ascent another species of Valeriana foliis radicalibus reniformi cordatus occurs. Urena lobale was noticed as high as 5,300 feet. Between Syung and Myrung, especially about Nungbree, Parnassia recurs, with another species of Epilobium, Xyris, Juncus, the Senecione?, etc.; a new Impatiens occurs towards Myrung. Generally speaking, the plants are much the same as those about Moflong; but several new Composit? occur.
The road leaves Nungbree to the right, leaving the most interesting parts of the march behind. Altogether not more than 20 additional plants occurred in a journey of 6 hours. Many parts are wet and marshy, and there is an absence of all tree vegetation, until one reaches Syung. This makes the first part of the way somewhat tedious. At Syung an El?agnus occurs; Colquhounia as usual in hedges; Styrax occurs at foot of the hill the altitude of which is 5,000 feet.
An anemone is common on road sides, especially on this side of Syung; a new Potentilla occurs; and the only Boragineous plant hitherto seen by me on these hills, a Cynoglossum closely allied to C. canescens. The altitude of Syung is 5,594 feet. The temperature being 70°, and water boiling at 202°. Myrung 6 P.M. Thermometer 65°.
October 11th.-Myrung 7 A.M. temp. 63° Fahr.; noon 67°; 6 P.M. temp. 65°; 9 temp. P.M. 62?°. Weather unsettled, showery, and very cloudy, a very fine view is had of Bootan and the Himalayas from this place, particularly about 7 A.M. when the atmosphere is clear, the Durrung peaks being most magnificent. The vegetation of the hills about here is much the same as about Moflong. The woods are fine, composed chiefly of oaks; a Magnolia, which is a very large tree, likewise occurs together with Gordonia, an occasional Pinus, Myrica integrifolia. The most curious tree is one which with the true appearance of an El?agnus, seems to be a Loranthus, the first arborescent species yet found, although, as one or two other exceptions occur to parasitism, there is no reason why there should not be a terrestrial arborescent species, as well as a fruticose one. The wood to the east of the bungalow, which clothes a deep and steep ravine, has a very rich flora; a dryish ridge on the other side of its torrent abounds with Orchide?, and presents an arborescent Gaultheria. The ridge in question may be recognised by its large rocks which are covered with Epiphytes Mosses, etc. In this wood Pothos flammea is very common, climbing up the trees as well as hanging in festoons. The marshes which are frequented by a few snipe, present grasses, the usual Cyperace?, Xyris, occurs but is not common; Panicum stagninum? Eriocaulon spe. fluitans? Burmannia Rungioidea floribus carneis magnis, Senecionides, Ammannia rotundifolia, Sphagnum, Carduacea floribus roseis, Limnophil? sp. Mentha verticillata, and the others previously found in similar situations. Goldfussia so common about Churra, recurs here, but rarely.
The wood abounds with several species of birds, among which a green Bulbul is the most common, then the fan-tailed Parus, with its coquettish airs; judging from the voice there is a species of Bucco. Both species of Ph?nicornis, yellow and crimson, described in Gould's Century as male and female, and the black Edolius are found. The only animals are two species of squirrel, and a genet, of which I shot one, but although it fell from a height of 70 feet or so, I could not succeed in securing it; it is a lengthy animal, black and grey, with a long tail, climbing trees with great facility. The ring-dove of Churra continues.
The weather during the four days I stayed at Myrung was unsettled; fine usually in the morning, but cloudy and showery in the evening; the range of the thermometer from 53°, at 6? A.M. to 68° in the afternoon in an open verandah. The place, however, is not a cheerful one, for the aspect on every side except to the E. and NE. is dreary, marshes and the usual bleak grassy hills being alone visible. My favourite spot in this direction would be the Nungbree hill, the altitude of which, at least of that part over which the road to the village runs, is 5,439, (or probably 5,700,) temperature of the air being **, and water boiling at 202?°. There is a beautiful and very extensive wood at Nungbree, the largest I have yet seen; it consists, at least at the skirts, principally of oaks; a large Pyrus is also not uncommon. Eurya, and an arborescent Buddleia likewise occur.
At this place Plectranthus azureus makes its appearance, otherwise the vegetation is that of Myrung; the most remarkable plant is a huge Sarcocordalis, parasitic on the roots of a large climbing Cissus cortice suberosa, foliis quinatis, on the wet parts of the wood, especially towards the mountain foot, mosses abound, chiefly the pendent Hypna and Necker?.
On the 13th, I went to a celebrated rock called Kullung, bearing about NW. from Myrung, from the heights surrounding which it is visible; the road runs off from the Nunklow nearly opposite Monei, near to which village one passes; the village is of no great size, and as well as others in this direction is inhabited chiefly by blacksmiths, the iron being procured from the sand washed down the mountain torrents; the sound of their anvils when beaten is very soft and musical, not unlike that of a sheep bell. The road to the rock is very circuitous; it finally ceases, and for an hour one traverses ridges on which no path exists, having the usual vegetation. The rock is certainly a vast mass, forming a precipice of 700 feet to the westward, on which side it is nearly bare of vegetation, gradually shelving to the east, and covered with tree-jungle, among which huge mosses are to be found. At its foot some fine fir trees occur, one at its very base measured nine feet in circumference, but had no great height. The forest consists of Oaks, Pines, Panax, Erythrina Eurya, Gordonia.
The base of the rock is covered with mosses, Hepatic?, a Didymocarpus, C?logyne and some other epiphylical orchide?, among others Bolbophyllum cylindraceum.
All these continue to its apex, except the mosses and Hepatic?, which are gained by clambering, and proceeding up fissures clothed with grasses. The apex is rounded, presenting here and there patches of grass, Aira, and Nardus, together with a few stunted shrubs-Viburnum, another Rhododendron, and Didymocarpus common, C?logyne in profusion, Bolbophyllum cylindraceum in abundance, mosses, Lichens, an Allium also in abundance on the slopes, Stellaria in the woods towards the middle.
The view to the westward in particular was pretty, embracing a fine well-wooded undulated valley, with several villages and a stream of some size. The plains of Assam and the huge Brahmapoutra were likewise seen, but not very clearly. The distance from Myrung to the Kullung rock is certainly not less than eight miles, the time it took was 4 hours. The altitude of the rock is 5,392 feet, temperature 76°, water boiling at 202?. Wild hog are found round its base. {168}
October 14th.-I left for Moleem, the march is long and fatiguing; the road leaves the Moflong road at about four miles from the village of that name, continuing over similar barren hills, clothed with scanty grass. On reaching Morung firs become common, but they are small. The view of Moleem, from this direction is remarkably pretty; the country being better wooded, especially with young firs, and the effect being much increased by the quantities of large boulders that occur strewn in every direction. The Boga Panee is here a contemptible stream, not knee deep. Moleem is a place of some size on the left bank of the river, occupying the side of a hill of considerable height. Thermometer 7 P.M. 58°.
October 15th.-Temp. 7 A.M. 53°, at 3 P.M. 70?°, water boiled at 204°, altitude 4,473 feet, or perhaps rather more. Walked towards Nogandree; between this and a stream resembling the Boga Panee there is a pretty valley, the eminences generally well-wooded with young firs. Pretty and eligible sheltered sites might here be chosen for a Sanatarium. The vegetation is the same as that of Moflong-Delphinium, Ranunculus, Anemone, Potentilla, Tricyrtis, Codonopsis, Lilium giganteum, Spir?ace?, Viola, Pyrus, Galium, Carduus, Viburna.
The woods are not very frequent, they consist, when not exclusively of Pines, chiefly of Oaks and Chesnuts. Underwood almost entirely of Acanthace?. Rhus Bucki-Amelam is common here, an Oxalis occurs in very shady places with fleshy leaves, it is so large that it is scarcely referrible to O. corniculata. Berberis asiatica is very common. 6 P.M. thermometer 58°, 9 P.M. 50?°.
October 16th.-7 A.M. 842?°(sic). Ascended the Chillong hill, which is among the highest portion of this range, it is said that from this both the plains of Bengal and of Assam may be seen, not because it overtops all the intermediate ground, but because that happens in some places to be rather low; the termination of the 1st elevation above Churra, is seen to be very abrupt, but nothing can be seen beyond the elevated plateau of this part towards the south. To the east and west the view has the usual appearance-grassy valleys and hills-with a great disproportion of jungle.
The summit is gained after an easy march of two hours; the ascent is gradual. The highest ridge is naked of trees, but to the north the slope is in one portion covered with heavy tree-jungle, in which the underwood is as thick as I have ever seen it: it consists of an Acanthaceous plant; the forest itself of oaks, chesnuts and Rhododendron arboreum, which last is common on the highest margin. A few Pines occur, but scarcely above the middle of the hill. To the north very high ground is visible, as likewise from Myrung, and between this and Chillong is an elevated plateau which appears to me likewise very eligible for the sites of European residences.
But many places about Moleem are so, especially towards Nonkreem; and it is much to be regretted that some situation in this part of the range had not been selected for the site of a sanatarium instead of Churra. The Rhododendra were covered with mosses and other epiphytes, among which Otochilus occurred. Bambus?, 2 Fici sp. Andropogon, Gaylussacia, etc. occur about the wood. The vegetation of the grassy hills was precisely the same, Aroidea, Erianthus, Tofieldioidea, Parnassia nana potius collina, Sphacelioidea, Osbeckia, Arbutoide?, etc. I got scarcely a single new plant; the best was a fine large Neckera, sect. Dendroidea. The temperature being 70°: water boiled at 201°, making the altitude 6,167 feet. No view of any particular beauty was obtained, nor did any thing occur to repay me for the trouble and fatigue of the journey.
About Moleem an Osmundoid is common enough, but not in flower: the northern forms are Ranunculus, Anemone, Parnassia, Pyrus, Pinus, Viola, Galium, Campanula, Clematis, of which an additional species occurs, Bromoide?, etc. etc., as at Moflong. I took the height of this place again; the mean of the three thermometers gave 4,502 feet, the temperature being at 60°: water boiling at 95°, 203?°, 204°. It must, however, be remembered that my residence is not 100 feet above the bed of the Boga Panee, so that it would be easy to attain an elevation of 5,000 feet in the village itself.
October 17th.-I returned to Churra to send away my collections and to consult with Major Lister as to the routes proposed for me by Capt. Jenkins, viz. through the Garrows, or through the Cacharees. Nothing particular occurred en route. I met with Hydrangea exaltata along a torrent flowing into the main-feeder of the Boga Panee, and two other Araliace?. The highest ground crossed is towards the ravine of the Boga Panee, and from this a good view of Moflong is obtained, and also of the Himalayas in clear weather. C?logyne Wallichiana was commencing to flower; this plant occurs in profusion in some rocky spots about Moflong. The only additional thing I remarked was, that Luculia scarcely reaches the Kala Panee.
On my return to Churra, a change was observed in the character of the vegetation, all the Tradescantias had ceased, as well as most of the Impatientes, and Eriocaulons. The grasses had become more withered, and the general tint was brown. No kites (Falco milvus) are to be observed out of Churra.
The plants which were particularly conspicuous about Churra, were past flowering in the interior; thus Osbeckia Nepalensis? was not to be met with in flower in the interior, while it is in profusion about the station. The same may be said of other instances.
After all Churra presents the richest flora of any other place in the Khasyah hills, because there is a greater extent of wood near it, than is found in any other locality, much greater altitudes and deeper descents in its ravines, and it is as it were the transit point between a tropical or sub-tropical, and a temperate vegetation. I have no doubt, that within a circle of three miles of Churra, 3,000 species might be found in one year.
The principal plants pointing out the tropical nature of the vegetation are Pandanus, which is almost limited to the limestone formation, on which it is excessively abundant, Cham?rops Martiana? which from its affecting particularly the walls of the amphitheatres so conspicuous about Moosmai, Mamloo and Surureem, and the depths of whose sides is probably at Mamloo 1,000 feet, might have been better named. I have never seen it on any other places. The Alsophila Brunoniana is likewise apparently confined to the limestone hills, while the tree fern, Polypodium, is found on sandstone, as well as Impatiens, Tradescantia, Commeline?, Eriocaulone?, Xyres, almost all the grasses, Melastomace?, almost all the Leguminos? and the preponderance of tropical Rubiace?, which are, however, few, Scitamine?, Epiphytical Orchide?, Urena Labiata, etc. etc.
On the 23rd I went to Mamloo, which is about four miles to the west of Churra. To this place the limestone ridge, extending from Churra, nearly approaches: its vegetation is not rich but always stunted: rocky amphitheatres are very remarkable at Mamloo, they are of excessive depth; their walls being generally perpendicular, often somewhat overhanging. The manner of their formation is now to be seen in the amphitheatre immediately contiguous to the village, although it appears to be very slow. It is thus, bodies of water falling from the edge of the table land, seem to undermine the sandstone below, producing land slips, which occur in this manner year after year. Since 1835, the edge of the Moosmai fall has receded at least 10 feet, and ample evidence remains of the recession to take place next rains. This simple undermining will suffice for the formation of ravines, which are formed by their sides merely slipping down without being carried away, this last only occurring in the immediate vicinity of the strength of the torrent. All the different stages may be easily seen. The edge of the table land I take to have been originally at Mahadeb. The time that has elapsed between the falling of the first cataract over its edge, and the formation of the edge over which the waters at present fall, must be immense, since that edge has now receded several miles. Allowing the annual recess to be 5 feet, and the distance 5 miles; the time occupied would be 5,700 years: that the time has been great, is proved by the sides of these places being clothed with large tree-jungle to the base of the scarp.
October 25th.-I went in search of the fossil marine beach, (found during our first visit in 1835,) but passed it, and my journey ended at the site of the Jasper beds: this occupies a ridge where roads strike off leading to the Orange villages, so called from the groves of orange trees by which they are surrounded, and from which they derive their name. From this spot, 3 villages are seen occupying sheltered situations, none much above 2,000 feet in elevation. Luckily I was accompanied, (although going down I was unconscious of it,) by a boy who had been with McClelland when he originally discovered the fossil remains, so I recommenced the ascent, after digging in many places without any success. The site is scarcely 1,000 feet below Mamloo, which is 3,153 feet; it is below the ridge along which the road is visible from the village, and is about 100 yards farther from it than the second square stone erection. One would imagine that one was passing through rocks presenting nothing interesting: the rocks are in many places very hard, particularly when they have been long exposed to the atmosphere, in which case they are less red than when sheltered by vegetation, when they are soft and of a reddish colour: the fossils are by no means frequent, the cylindric tubes appear to occupy the outer or rather upper surface of the sandstone, in the interior of which Medus? or Cyrtom? are most frequent, accompanied by shells, some of large size, the largest bivalves resembling scolloped oysters; the next in size looking like oblong cockles: for only in one position did I see a conglomeration of minute shells; this occurred above the others and nearer the jungle. I brought away with me, two boxes full. Owing to my presuming that I should meet with water near, I omitted the precaution of taking some with me, so I could not ascertain exactly the height of the place. All the fossils are easily friable. {172}
From the Jasper, which is scarce 1,800 feet in elevation, the following plants occurred nearly in succession-Holmskioldia, this is scarcely found above 2,000 feet; Porana in abundance, gradually diminishing above; Callicarpa arborea abundant, continuing to about 2,200; Triumfetta, Urena lobata, Arundo the same as above, Melica latifolia, Panicum plicatum, and one or two other species; a Polygonum, Andropogon, small Commeline, Leea, Erythrina are very close to the spot, and the only Churra plant, except the Arundo and Wendlandia is a Labiata, Geniosporum? so is Composita arborea; indeed the vegetation is almost decidedly tropical. The following plants are then seen-Tetranthera, Flemingia as at Mahadeb, Vitis, Drymaria, Panicum eleusinoides, Eurya, Panax foliis decompositis inermis, Pogonatherum crenitum, Wallichia, which occur before one has gained an ascent of 2,000 feet: Osbeckia nepalensis descends to this but in small quantities; then I remarked Bidens, ?theilema, Caricine?, Rottlera, Didymocarpus, Begonia, Cheilanthes dealbata, Stemodia ruderalis? Scutellaria, Impatiens bracteata, Rungi? sp. Sida, Elephantopus sp. and Bambusa, Gordonii occurring there at an elevation of about 2,100 feet. Then Centotheca lappacea, Deeringia, Panicum centrum, Gouania, Caryophyllus, which last occurs on all the chain of Himalayas, and which I have seen as high as 6,000 feet in the Mishmee Mountains, latitude 28°. Panax foliis palmatim partitis, Clerodendrum nutans, Ficus feruginea and F. hispida, foliis cordatis, serrato-dentatis: then Saurauja micrantha; before 2,300 feet were reached. There Oxyspora sp. paniculis cernius ramis ascendentibus, frutex, Croton of old, Ruellia persic?folia appeared, and about 2,400 feet, the 1st Quercus appeared. Here, as at Mahadeb, Ruellia Neesiana became common, and Linum trigynum, Uncinia, etc. Grasses commence to preponderate at about 2,800 feet, but not the grasses of Churra. Holcus, Airoides, etc. not being found, but Panica varia, and Rottboellia which ceases above this.
At the raised Marine Fossil Beach, a queer Cephalanthus? Legumenosa arbuscula fol. pinnatis impari (Pongami?) Legumenibus secus suturam quamque alatis, Mangifera indici, Anthistiria arundinacea are found, and an arbusculous Mimosa, but unarmed. Shortly above this, Holcus, Andropogons, etc., begin to preponderate, and thence the vegetation is nearly that of Churra. The woods of Mamloo consist of Bucklandia, oaks, chesnuts, Panax, Hyalostemma, Eurya, and Oleine?; Epiphytes are very common. The most remarkable tree is one foliis alternis bistipulat; corymbis denis, Calycibus hinc fissis, petalis 5-albis, Anther? sinuos? columna terminans, et ovarium et stigma occultantes? fructibus pendulis stipilatis ovato oblongis, carpellis 5-latere marginatus.
This has some affinities apparently with Sterculiace?; the flowers are perhaps polygamous.
Here Cypripedium insigne, Venustum, and various other fine Orchide? may be found.
The only bird I saw was a Bucco, which in voice resembled the green one of the plains.
The elevation of Mamloo is 3,153, the temperature being at 7 A.M. 63°. The large metal thermometer rose at the boiling point to 206?°: wooden one to 206?°: centigrade 96.7°: small metal 200°.
One of the most curious places about Churra is situated over the ridge in which the coal is found; on surmounting this, which is steep and perhaps 400 feet high, one soon commences to descend gradually until you come to a water-course; on proceeding along this a short way you come to a precipice. The water falling over this, has cut a deep well in the limestone: the road to the bottom is precipitous and dangerous. On reaching the water-course again no signs of the well are observable, access to this is gained by subterranean passages, of which two, now dry, exist. The scene inside is very striking; you stand on the rugged bottom of the well which is 70 or 80 feet deep, the part above corresponding to the fall, being of about the same depth; the water now escapes through a chasm below the bed of the well, the other fissures or passages being above, and probably now rarely letting off the water. After a severe fall of rain the scene must be grand.
November 4th.-Nonkreem 6? A.M., thermometer 31°: hoarfrost. Marched hither from Surureem. Vegetation the same until you reach the Boga Panee, when Delphinium, Anemone, and Ranunculus make their appearance. On the high ridges before reaching Boga Panee, found an Astragalus; at Nonkreem, a Scrophularia. Nonkreem is a curious place, the village of no great size in a valley: the sides of the valley are covered with boulders; those at the entrance from Churra of huge size, and thrown together with great confusion. Pines at this place occur of some size, but they are distinctly limited in this direction to the granitic formation. The downs have now assumed a withered wintry appearance. Nonkreem is a great place for iron; this is found in coarse red sandstone, or it may be fine granite, forming precipices; this is scraped or pushed down by iron rods, it is then washed by a stream turned off on to it: the stream is dammed up, and the irony particles by their weight fall to the bottom: they are very heavy, of a dull blackish appearance. All the streams are of a whitish colour, and the rocks are covered with C?logyne Wallichiana.
The elevation of Nonkreem is 4,578 feet, the temperature of the air being 52°. The large thermometer indicated boiling water 203°: centigrade 96?°: wooden 204°: small 197°. In the Nonkreem jheel, Alisma, Villarsia! and Potamogeton occur.
November 5th.-The march to Suneassa continues over high downs, the vegetation being precisely as before, viz. Cnicus, Carduus, Prunella Pedicularis, Gaultheria, Gnaphalia, Bromoid acroideum, Tussilaginoid Andropogon, Sphacelia Daucas, Hypericum, Hedychium, Polygonum rheoides, Smithia but rare, Tradescantia clavigera, Parnassia collina, Pteris aquilina, Euphorbia, Dipsacus, Salix, Osbeckia capitata, ?thionnia, Eriocaulon, Knoxia cordata, and Campanula. In short, the higher ridges have the vegetation of those between the Kala and Boga Panee, the less elevated, that of Surureem. Along the watercourses Pyrus, Betula, Corylifoli?, and Eurya.
As one approaches Suneassa the ravines become wooded, and the aspect of country more diversified. The woods consist of a Castanea, 2 oaks, Rhododendron arboreum and R. punctatum, Panax, Eurya, Thebaudiace? vari?, no less than 4 or 5 of these, one is a Gaylussacia; Saccharum megala makes its appearance at Suneassa.
This is a small straggling village, on the brow of the ravine of the same name; it is like Moflong, each house being hidden by hedges composed as usual of Buddleia, Colquhounii, Solanum spirale? Erythrina, Ficus, and Rhus. Sugarcane, but of poor quality, is here cultivated, as well as capsicum, but this is also of inferior quality; the houses are worse than usual. Near this place several Nunklow plants appear, as Plectranthus c?ruleus, Labiata foliis verticillatis of Suddya. Its elevation is 4,362 feet, the temperature being in the air, 59°. Big thermometer boiling point ditto 204°: wooden ditto 204°: small 198°: centigrade ditto 96°. Pines occur here and there towards Suneassa, but of no size and no abundance.
November 6th.-Left Suneassa and proceeded down the ravine which is probably 1,200 to 1,500 feet deep. The scenery is very pretty, the sides being much wooded; the woods open, consisting chiefly of pines, which are of moderate size, Gordonia, Castanea, and Quercus: Mimosea occurs, also Saurauja. The grasses are as before, except that the Anthisteria of Nunklow appears, with Volkameria, Verbena Primulac?, and Osbeckia capitate, foliis lineari oblongis, floribus carneis. Towards the foot, the scenery still improves.
The woods consist of pines and a Quercus foliis castane? cupulis echinatis, Arbor mediocris; the slopes as well as the valley are cultivated chiefly for rice, this last often assuming the terrace fashion. The river is of considerable width, 50 to 60 yards, but of no depth: two here flow together, and at the end of the valley a still larger stream not fordable in the rains, at least where I crossed, meets it. On the streams at the base of the Suneassa acclivity, Salix, Ligustrum, Ficus frutex humelis, and a fine Indigofera occur. Moving thence along the valley the vegetation becomes tropical, although pines descend nearly to its level. Pontederia the small one of Bengal, ditto Sagittaria Vandelli?, Po? 3, Apluda, Cyperace?, Saccharum megala, and spontaneum, Elytrophorus, Ammannia, Erianthus, Cnicus! Artemisia as before, Arundo exalum, Cirsium, Carduus! Scitamine? 2, Panicum curvatum, Setaria glauca, Swertia angustifolia! Volkameri? sp., Ranunculus hirsutoideus! Zizania ciliaris.
Those marked with (!) have probably straggled down. The cultivation is chiefly of rice, Eleusine, Coix, and the edible seeded Labiata. Grasses abound; in addition to those above several new ones occur, Rottboellia exallata, Anthisteria of Nunklow, Arundinace?, Andropogones several, Saccharum fusco-rubum, 25 species might certainly be collected.
Fine pines occur on the other ascent from its base to apex. Here also occurs Ph?nix pumile, which as well as the Rottboellia, which I think I have seen in the Mogoung valley (during the journey to Ava), and Buddleia neemda.
The ascent gained, the country appears level, covered with the usual grasses. The ravines are well wooded, but few pines occur, although they may be seen here and there. The woods appear the same as those of Churra. Pandanus sp. altera? occurs. In one ravine gathered a new Thebaudiace? allied to T. variegata, differing in its short greenish flowers and its smoothness.
Amwee is situated on an undulated plain or table land; the undulations are gentle, separated by marshy tracts: no steep ravines occur, the face of the undulations is covered with grasses, among which are seen most of the Churra plants, the sides are covered with fine woods with defined edges, consisting chiefly of oaks, chesnuts and Bucklandia. The aspect of the country is pretty, resembling some woodland scenery in the south of England; close to Amwee is a fine stream 40 yards wide, this winds through the valley, and on its upper part fine cascades occur. No fish are to be found besides those of Churra. The river is crossed by a stone bridge consisting of pillars of single slabs of large size, one measuring 20 feet in length by from 4 to 5 in breadth. The temperature varies from 50 to 68 during the day in an open verandah. Fogs are not so common, nor is the rain so heavy as at Churra. The space being much greater, and the country more level, it would be better as a sanatarium than Churra, besides which, its access is as easy, it being reached in one day from Jynteapore. There is, however, a Toorai about Jynteapore, which is unhealthy. Its altitude is 3,500 feet, or nearly 500 below Churra.
The vegetation is nearly the same as about Churra, some new Castane? and an El?ocarpus occur, and Pandanus of large size in the woods. Epiphytical Orchide? abound; Nepenthes occurs here. Altitude from three observations 3,530 feet: 1st observation 3,439: 2nd 3,597: 3rd 3,624.
November 10th.-Joowye: this is north from Amwee, and about 8 miles distant. Two valleys have to be descended, one rather steep. The country alters immediately after the 1st ascent, the woods nearly disappearing except in the more favoured spots. Pines soon commence. In the second valley, the stream of which is large, and of which pretty views are to be obtained, the pines reach on the south side to the bank of the stream, on the north scarcely any are to be seen. In the woods about Amwee, Eugenia is very common: noticed on the route Lonicera.
Joowye is the largest village I have seen, it is of great extent but straggling; near its entrance is a breast-work now nearly complete. The houses are of a better description than those generally met with. They are surrounded by wood, especially fine bamboos, in habit not unlike B. baccifera. They are also surrounded by excellent timber palings. The people are different from Khasyas Proper-perhaps they are not so fine a race. Their features approach more to those of Bengallees, particularly the women, who dress their hair like those of Assam, indeed the dress generally of both sexes assimilates to that of Assamese, although their language seems to be Bengallee. In the wood surrounding this place curious features of vegetation occur, and beautiful lanes and pathways. One may see a beech now naked of leaves, standing out in graceful relief close to the elegant foliage of a bamboo. Bamboos surround all the houses-sugarcane, kuchoos, mustard, hemp, Musa, Ricinus were observed.
The plants are beech, which is common and of large size. Pyrus of Moleem, Pinus rare, Marlea begonifolia! Betula corylifolia common. Verbena cham?drys, Rubi 3 or 4, Tetranther?? Rubia cordifolia, Morus, Cerasus, Panax 3 species, Gleicheni? 2, Eurya, Juncus, Ranunculus, Viola, Verbesina of Moflong, Sida, Clematis pubescens, Caricine?, Myrica, Gordonia, Polygonum 3, among them Rheoides Engeldhaardtii common, Viburna 2, Wendlandia, Osbeckia capitata and nepalensis. The grasses chiefly Andropogons; Muss?nda, Bucklandia, Saurauja, Hir?a, Dipsacus rare, Camellia oleifolia, and C. axillaris, Begonia laciniata, Ficus, Vitis, Sonerila, Plectranthus azureus, Randia, Mephitidia, Psychotria, Galium, Clerodendrum infortunatum, Pyrus or crab, Fragaria, Potentilla, Urena lobata. The diversified nature of the vegetation, both tropical and temperate, is at once evident.
The altitude is 3,553 feet-temperature of the air 62°; large thermometer boiling point 205?°: wooden ditto 206?: centigrade ditto 96°: small ditto 199?°.
The higher ground about the place is about 4,000 feet: Joowye being situated in a hollow. Viola and Peristrophe occur.
November 11th.-The march to Nurtung occupies about 6 hours. The country is level, or merely undulated, with no considerable descent, the steepest being that to the river on which Nurtung is situated. The vegetation continues the same, the trees except in the ravines almost exclusively pines, those on the ravines consisting of oaks, Rhododendra, Betula corylifolia, Betula moroides, Solidago, Verbena, Primulace?, Othonna, occur; Anthistiri?, both those of Nunklow are common, Rottboellia Manisuris in low valleys: here and there Ph?nix pumila is common. The country just before Nurtung is uninteresting, scarcely any thing but grass being visible in some directions. Indeed it falls off on leaving Joowye.
Rhinanthus, Corolla infundibulif. subbilabiat. lobis 2, superioribus minoribus, stam. ascendent. stigmati inclusi decurvo.
November 12th.-Nurtung is a large place for these hills, perhaps next in extent to Joowye, it occupies principally both sides of a sufficiently sheltered hill. The lanes adjacent to the place are narrow, often very wet, and always very dirty. The gardens are enclosed with wooden palings and are screened still further by bamboos. The houses, at least the better order, are still better than even those of Joowye. The exterior is of the same construction as all Khasya houses, but the lawns and the comparative cleanliness of the front makes them look much better. The market, which took place to-day, is outside the village and close to our bungalow: it is well attended, but the amount of persons could not exceed 100 to 200, and these form a considerable amount of all the persons capable of bearing burdens from the neighbouring villages. The luxuries exhibited are all Khasyan, consisting of stinking fish, some other things of dubious appearance and still more dubious odour, millet and the inferior grains, and the fashionable articles of Khasya clothing and the adjuncts to that abominable habit pawn eating. There was plenty of noise, but still order prevailed: no other rupees than the rajah's were taken, and even pice were refused. Iron implements of husbandry of native manufacture were vended, in short all the various luxuries or necessaries of a Khasya are obtainable.
This place bears evidence of having been ruled over by some chief pretending to Hindooism. This is observable in the large fig trees in some of the buildings, in most of the houses in the presence of some brahmins, in the tanks, and in a sacred lake. At any rate it is attended with bad effects, and to see a Khasya attempting the formalities of a rigid Hindoo is ridiculously absurd.
It must be a wealthy place, many of the natives are well off; and I saw a lady of a decidedly superior nature to the Khasya women, clad in snow white, reclining in oriental fashion on a platform. The vegetation of this place forms a curious melange around our huts: Rhus bucki ameli, two Artimise?, Anthistiria arundinacia, Pteris aquilina, Callicarpa lilacina, Eurya, Bombax, Osbeckia nepalensis and linearis, Marlea begonifolia, Pyrus, Pinus, Urticia fructibus aurantiaceus capitulatis, Polygonum rheoides, Rubi 3, Swertia angustifolia, Polygonum globuliferum, Valerian?, Cacalia, Randia, Gnaphalia nervosa, and G. revoluta, Smilax, Plectranthus azureus, Trichosanthes, Leea, Tradescantia clavigera, Geniosporum, Butea, Hypericum, Knoxia cordata, Rice cultivation.
Along the path to the village are to be found, Carduus, Myrica crotalaria, Hacyoides, Caricene?, Panicum curvatum, Arundo, Mentha verticillata, Cyperaec? usual, Zizania ciliaris, Panax, Wendlandia Salvinia, Isachne bigeniculata, Betula corylifolia common, Pontedera, Tetranthera, Erythrina, Celtis, Salix, Buddleia, Gordonia, Calamus abundant, Juncus, Arum macrophyllum, Cordiace?, Urena lobata, Cynoglossum canescens, Bambusa, Verbesinea, Lavinia, Magnolia of Myrung, Camellia oleifolia, Gualtheria.
About the village, Porana, Musa, Verbena, Xanthophyllum, Xyris, Urtica herophylla, Sambucus, etc.
The cultivation consists of rice, millet, Soflong? pumpkins and tobacco; guavas and oranges, are also to be seen.
Daphne cannabina occurs here, as well as Loxotis obliqua, the Cardaminum, Plantago, and Martynia.
From a fresh observation and taking the mean, I find the elevation of Nurtung to be 3,302 feet.
On enquiry I find that Rulung is one march off, that the country is similar, and that pines grow there to a large size. From this place to Koppilee river it is said to be nine marches. A fuqueer from Cutch said several, six to ten-and as the distance is nearly fifty miles and the ground difficult, he was probably right.
You then come to the Meekir country. To get into Tooly Ram's country would require at least nine days, but with loaded people probably twelve or fifteen. The station between Rulung and the Koppilee is Hush Koorah. Thermometer varies here from 45 to 85 in the sun, in shade from 52 to 74.
November 13th.-Left for the Borpanee.
The country traversed is easy, consisting chiefly of undulations covered with grassy vegetation. There are no steep ascents nor descents; and the only obstacle is the Borpanee. The march is of about six hours' duration.
Butea suffruticosa is very common about Nurtung, but ceases soon after leaving its environs. All the valleys near this place are cultivated: the ground being now inundated in proportion. Dipsacus valeriana continued, and a short distance from Nurtung pines become very common. Thence the country became more undulated and scarcely a tree was met with: Hedysarum gyrans commenced shortly after leaving Nurtung: a sure sign of decreasing elevation. The country subsequently improved, being more diversified with wood: firs became abundant, Callicarpa arborea commenced. About Nonkreen, a small village to the east, close to our path the trees became mostly different. Kydia appeared, a tree like the mango, and some others unknown to me. Bauhinia, Randia, Phyllanthus Embelica, and a stunted arboreous Symplocos, Anthistiria arundinacea common, with chesnuts (Castane?).
Close to this, Gordonia, pines of some size, Anthistiria arundinacea and Cassioides. The grasses continued the same, but two new Andropogons and a small Rottboellia appear; Holcus, Airoides, etc. of Churra have ceased: the other are Sacchara and various Andropogons. On approaching a considerable descent the woods became open, consisting at first entirely of pines, Betula of Joowye, etc. then of pines, Quercus castaneoides which attains a large size. It was here that the pines became large, one felled measured sixty-nine feet to the first branch, most are straight, the greatest diameter not two feet. Gordonia occurred here of large size, the woods are really delightful, reminding one much of England. Here Myrica occurs but rarely, Lematula, Flemingia, Elephantopus, Vanda, Quercus callicarpifolius commences, Biophytum appears a short distance hence. Also, Liriodendron, Dipterocarpus, Bambusa, Pinus but of smaller size, Engelhaardtia, Dioscorea, Castanea, Quercus callicarpa, which is very common.
Here Bombax appears somewhat lower, with it Castanea, Kydia, Gordonia. No pines now occur except on the neighbouring heights.
The descent to the Borpanee is not great, say 400 feet; on its banks Thunbergia grandiflora commences, but the Castanea castaneoides of large size, Camellia oleifolia, Daphne cannabina, Rhododendron punctatum variety. Engenia Wallichii (which commences), Quercus castaneoides, etc. may be found along its banks.
This is a large stream, not fordable at any time, nor passable in the rains; both banks are high, rocks of course break the stream, which is gentle at the points crossed. Breadth is 50 to 60 yards, the elevation of its bed is 2,508 feet, water boiling at 207?°: temperature 74°.
The ascent of the north bank is great, on surmounting it one returns to grassy undulations, the vegetation of which is the same as before, Rottboellia of Suniassa as well as Manisuroides here occur. The village Madan is very small, the people, of course, as they have scarcely ever seen a white face, very polite and obliging: it is situated on a hill, but is still below the north bank of the river. Its altitude is 2,753 feet-temperature of the air 67°: boiling water 207°.
The birds, as well as those of the Nurtung river, are the water-ouzel, the greyish-blue water-chat, the red and black ditto with a white head-top, and the black bird, durn-durns or bird producing that cry occurs, but not in great numbers. Pea-fowl at Madan. Elephants are abundant, especially towards the descent to the Borpanee. Fly wheel (?) insect is here common at Kokreen, a small village close to Nonkreen. Equisetum occurs along the Boga Panee as well as a new species of Podostemon, P. fronde profunde lobato, lobis liniaribus simplicibus vel lobatis saxis arcti adpressis, floribus marginalibus distiches. Polygala occurs at 3,000 feet and continues higher.
November 14th.-The march to Mengtung occupies about six hours, it is by no means difficult, and the only ascent of any length is that before descending on Nungtung. Throughout the 1st part, all the bottoms of the valleys are cultivated, thence all is jungle, either of high grass or of trees.
Near Madan, Arundinaria bambusifolia may be found, although at an elevation of 2,800 feet, Volkameria is common. The same grasses continue. In the rice field Butomus lanceolatus, Herpestes, Juss?ia, Juncus, Eriocaulon, Zizana ciliaris.
We then came after traversing such low swampy ground for sometime to a wood composed of Quercus castaneoidea, of large size; its bark is thick and somewhat corky, its diameter three feet. Quercus callicarpifolius appeared soon after, with Polygala linearis, Scitamine? are common in the valley. In similar low places, Impatiens graminifolia of Churra was seen, and Hedysarum gyrans.
Oolooks {183} and parrots are both found: Cnicus floribus roseis, Gerardia, Apluda, Senecio pubescens, were found in similar spots.
After traversing a low valley with gentle undulations presenting the usual grasses, we came to a wood presenting many tropical features. Oaks and chesnuts still continuing to be the usual trees. Much underwood, consisting of Acanthace?, Laurine?, Anonace?, Rubiace?, among which P?deria triphylla and Mephitidia were common. Centothca sp., Sarcopyramis, Garcinia, Triumfetta were observed.
Thence we came to pines. Then a low valley, the altitude of the stream of which was 1,979 feet, the thermometer being in the air 82°, boiling point 208?°. Then a wood.
In it Castanea ferruginea continued common, Quercus dalbergioides, Daphne cannabina, Acanthus leucostachyus (1st appearance), Oxyspora and Polypodium Wallichii were found; ascending a few feet, say 60, Randia microphyllum, Aneilema aspera, and pines appeared in the woods, with straight trunks and high branches, occasioned by the abortion of the lower branches, sometimes dichotomously forked, bark grey, and scaley, branches horizontal, approximated; cones inclining towards the axis. The descent occasioned a loss of pines, oaks and chesnuts continuing, Orthopogon, Pederia triphyllum.
This wood was of great extent, the path running along the precipitous or steep edge of a very wet water-course. Castanea ferruginea very common, Cyrtandracea.
Begonia malabarica, Achyranthes, Tradescantia flagellifera, Phlogacanthus, Acanthace?, Sarcopyramis, Magnolia, Eupatorium arboreum, Laurine?, Gleichenia minor.
Pinus subsequently appears but is rare, Eurya.
Daphne involucrata, Gaultheria arborescens, Knoxia cordata, Polypodium arborescens, Thibaudia, Viburni sp., Vareca, Leucas galea brunacea.
Then still gradually ascending, open woods occurred.
Pines, Q. castaneoides.
Thence the ascent is still through open woods of pines. Castanea, Quercus castaneoides and callicarpifolia, Polygala here appears, Knoxia linearis, Flemingia, ?schynomene.
On the top no Pines. Oaks, chesnuts, and Gordoni? appear.
Thence a second but small ascent, pines re-appear with birch, Scutellaria, Erythrina, Melica latifolia, Epiphytes common, especially on Gordoni?. The altitude of the summit before descending on Nungtung was 3,359 feet: thermometer 75°, boiling point 206°.
The altitude of Nungtung is 2,862 feet, Temp. 64°. Big Therm. in boiling water 206?°, ditto wooden 207°, small ditto 201°, centigrade 97?°.
Nungtung is a small village not containing more than 12 houses; these are on michaowns, {186} and are built entirely of bamboos. The doors of curious construction, consisting of bamboos strung longitudinally over a transverse one, so that they can be only opened by pushing on one side. The pigs have similar doors to their houses and appear well acquainted with the mode of ingress and egress.
Tobacco flourishes here. Here also I saw Sesamum and Ricinus, sure signs of increasing temperature, Labiata edulis. The first part of the march lay through an oak and chesnut wood; then through the valley which is under rice cultivation; then through part of an oak and fir wood; I then turned off to NNE. traversing undulated hills entirely covered with grass; here and there an oak and chesnut wood occurred; this continued until 1 P.M., when the path joined the great road as it is called, but which is nearly as bad as the Nungtung one. The marching was very disagreeable, owing to the path being choked up with grass, particularly in the swampy valley just before Onkreem. In this valley wild elephants were first seen.
After leaving the halting or resting place under a large oak (Q. castaneoides) at Onkreem, the path improved and is only rendered bad by the swarms of elephants, by which animals we were disturbed twice; it continued until 6 P.M., over undulated ground becoming lower and lower until we arrived at the large valley of Onswye, which is even now at this advanced period of the season, the middle of November, considerably swampy.
Oaks and chesnuts continued, but pines ceased about half way between Onkreem and Onswye.
Onswye is a small village, seated on a low hill, and entirely hidden by trees: the access to it is pretty. Its elevation is 1,632 feet, temperature 63°. Water boils at 98? of centigrade, small ther. 202?°, big ditto 208?°, wooden ditto 210°: taking 209° as the mean.
It is a Lalung village. These people have distinct habits and language from their neighbours: their dress is like that of the Khasyahs. They approach to Hindoos in not eating cows. They inhabit the lower northern ranges of these hills, but do not extend further east, nor into the plains at the foot, and are far less civilized than the Khasyahs.
They have religious houses or places of worship, deo-ghurs, in one of which I slept, having it first cleansed, and the deity appeased by some most villainous music, and a procession of men with knives.
At this village Carica, Ficus elastica, Ficus cordifolius, Ricinus, Artocarpus intigrifol, Tamarind, Guava, Musa, Solanum Melongena, tobacco, etc., are cultivated.
Caryophyllea scandens, Desmoch?ta, Plumbago, Plectranthus azureus, Phlebochiton, Cassia tora, Orthopogon, Adhatoda, Mangifera, Croton malv?fol, Hastingsia, Torenia asiatica, Caricinea, Leea, Prunus! Congea! Antidesma, Rottleria, Clerodendron nutans, Calamus, Xanthochymus. Mesua ferrea, Garcinia Cowa, Leea arbuscula, Dalhousia, Roxburghia, are found on the ascent which is moderate and pretty.
The heavy tree or bamboo jungle does not begin until you attain 12 or 1,500 feet, up to that, the ridges present the former grasses. Rottboellia, Andropogons, Erianthus, Saccharum, Anthistiria, and the trees are scattered consisting of Arborescent Leguminos?, Sterculia, Cedrela, Semicarpus continues to the tree jungle, but rarely.
The road to the village runs through heavy woods, the plants forming which I have already mentioned, it is in good order. The village is a Lalung one.
At Dullagong, which is situated in the plains of Assam, at the foot of the range the temperature being 66°, 8? A.M., water boiled at 211.1° in the large thermometer. 100 centigrade, and above the boiling point in the wooden. 205?° in the small metal thermometer.
Between this and Goba, the path is generally through grass or tree jungle. I noticed Exacum, Careya, Butea arborea, Ficus, Cinchona, Kydia, Saccharum Megala fuscum masus, Spathodea, Alstonia, Bombax, Semicarpus! ?gle Marmelos, Emblica, Panax, Elephantopus, and Lagerstr?mia Regin? succeeds about Goba: and between this and Dhumria, the country being low and highly cultivated, presents generally the appearance of one sheet of rice. In this march I observed one or two instances of the absolute enclosure of Dicotyledonous trunks by Fici. This enclosure arises entirely from the excessive tendency to cohesion between the roots and radicles of some of the species of this genus. With these, an expert gardener might produce any form he likes; the tendency exists in all to throwing out additional roots; in few only to excess. In the generality it is limited to the trunk and often to its base. Nobody can understand this genus who cannot study it from living specimens.
Cardiopterus is very common along the foot of these hills: it abounds with milky juice, and in habit and some other points approaches nearer to Chenopodiace? than Sapindace?.
December 7th.-Returned from Jeypore, whither I had been to report on the Caoutchouc trees. {193}
These trees appear to be limited to the belt of jungle or toorai which commences towards the foot of the Aka and Duphla hills, and which in the part in which I examined them is about 8 miles wide. They are said to be found likewise among the neighbouring villages, but I saw no instance of this. They occur solitarily, or at most in groups of two or three. They appear to be more frequent towards the immediate base of the hills, and to prefer the drier parts of those humid and dense forests called toorai. They are frequently of vast size, and by this as well as their dense head, may be at once recognised even at a distance of a few miles. Some idea of their size may be formed from the following measurements of a large one:
Circumference of main trunk, 74 feet
Ditto, including the supports, 120 "
Ditto, of space covered by crown branches, 620 "
Height, ditto ditto, 80 to 100 "
The roots spread out in every direction on reaching the ground; the larger running along the surface, their upper portion being uncovered: occasionally they assume the form of buttresses, but never to such a marked degree as occurs in some other trees, such as the Simool, Herietiera, etc. The supports are only thrown out towards the base of the principal branches, not as in the banian at indefinite distances. The trunk is a compound one, formed entirely by the mutual cohesion of roots; not as in almost all other trees by the growth of parts in an ascending direction. Its aspect is picturesque and varied, occasionally putting on the appearance of sculpture. It is, I think, doubtful whether this as well as some other species of the genus are not to be considered as genuine parasites, at any rate they generally cause the destruction of the tree on which they originally grew. If this be the case the parasitism is the reverse of that which occurs in Cuscuta, in which the plantule draws its first nourishment from the earth, relinquishing this when sufficiently developed to enable it to draw its supply from other plants. I may here observe, that parasites are common on the peepul, contrary to the statement of M. DeCandolle.
The destruction of the foster-mother takes place by the mutual interlacement of the roots, which descending irregularly, form at first a strong net-work, subsequently becoming a cylindric binding, in the strongest possible way to the trunk, and preventing all lateral distinction. The hollow occupied by the trunk when dead may become filled up, when this has passed away, by other roots. The adhesion of the roots commences by abrasion of the bark, the union subsequently becomes of the most intimate kind. The supports are perfectly cylindrical; they become conical only towards the earth, on approaching which they divide into roots: they are strictly descending growths, and as such, under ordinary circumstances, they never produce leaves, etc. Roots likewise issue from every section of the bark of sufficient depth to reach the outer layer of wood, with the outer fibres of which they are obviously continuous. To such an extent is this carried, that transverse sections of young supports assume the appearance of coarse paint-brushes or tails. The lenticells, which are very numerous, have nothing whatever to do with their production; if the bark remains entire, no roots are thrown out except by division of the apex. The branches ascend obliquely, the outermost running nearly horizontally.
The juice is obtained from the larger; that from young parts is less thick: an exposed semi-denuded root, is selected for transverse incisions through the bark, from which alone the juice flows, a small hole is made in the ground immediately beneath the incised parts into which a leaf, generally of Phrynium capitatum is placed: it is collected in this simple manner in a very clean state, far more so than that which can be collected from the tree in any other situation. On issuing, it is of a very rich pure white; if good, of the consistence of cream: its excellence is known by the degree of consistence, and by the quantity of caoutchouc it contains. This is ascertained by rubbing a few drops up in the palm of the hand, which causes the watery juice to separate (probably by evaporation) from the caoutchouc which remains in the form of small, oblong, or round portions; and by kneading this in the hand, and striking it sharply once or twice with the fist it acquires elasticity, so that an additional test of excellence is at once pointed out. Many incisions are made in one tree, the juice flows rapidly at first, at the rate of sixty drops a minute from an ordinary incision, but this soon becomes so much diminished that it dwindles to eight. The bleeding is continued for two or three days, when it ceases spontaneously by the formation of a layer of caoutchouc over the wound; and it is to the commencement of this that the rapid diminution in the number of drops is perhaps to be attributed. The quantity obtained from one tree has not exactly been ascertained; by some it is stated to be as much as four or five maunds, while others say that a moderate tree will only yield one gurrah full, or about ten seers. From the slowness with which it flows, I should consider half a maund to be a fair average for each bleeding. The juice is, however, said to flow faster at night, but this demands verification.
The operation is repeated at the end of eighteen or twenty days. In seven miles of jungle we observed eighty trees, by far the greater portion of which were of large size. Lieutenant Vetch has made a calculation, (on the assumption that they are equally plentiful throughout Chardowar,) that the number in this district alone is --- trees.
I calculate the number to be about 20,000. There is no reason for supposing that they are not equally abundant throughout Noadwar, nor in fact on any line where toorai prevails between Goalpara and Bishnath; beyond this, however, the increase in latitude may occasion their decrease both in number and size. On the southern side of the valley there is every reason to believe it to be equally common. The general geographic range may hence be said to be in latitude 24°, to 26?° in longitude. It has been stated by Mr. Royle that it does not extend beyond Pundua, Jynteapoor, and Churra Punjee, but on no other authority than that it had not been found elsewhere.
Taking the number of trees at 20,000, and the produce of each from four bleedings at two maunds, the annual supply that may be obtained from Durrung may be estimated at 13,000 maunds of the caoutchouc itself, assuming Dr. Roxburgh's proportion of one to three to be nearly correct. Some idea may be formed of the extent to which it is procurable, when from the mere outskirts of the forest, 300 maunds of juice may be collected in one month.
On the excellence of the Assam product as compared with that of America, it does not become me to pronounce. If strength, elasticity, clearness, and perfect freedom from viscidity, be tests of excellence, then this product may be considered as equal to any other. It has been pronounced by persons in Calcutta to be excellent, but no details have been entered into except by Mr. Bell, who objects to its snapping: if by this we are to understand snapping on being pulled too much, in contradistinction to breaking, it only proves its excellence. It is declared to be inferior to the American by Mr. McCosh, evidently on examination of the worst possible specimens.
The size of the trees as they generally occur in the limits above alluded to, entirely precludes all idea of any great liability to be destroyed by the extraction of juice, the amount of which must be so minute, compared to that of the whole tree. Still it may be considered desirable for the security of the tree to limit the bleedings to the cold months, and this is rendered more necessary by the inferiority of the juice during the season of active vegetation. And if it be possible to limit the number of bleedings of each tree to four or five during the above period, I consider that the present 3,000 stock cannot fail to be kept up. But to venture on still larger supplies, to meet the demand for this most useful article, a demand to which limits can scarcely be assigned, the formation of plantations should be encouraged, the sites chosen to be near the villages bordering on the line of the natural distribution of the tree. Propagation by cuttings or layers cannot fail to be of easy and rapid application; and if we consider that the tree is the most valuable receptacle of the lac insect, there is every reason to suppose that the natives will readily enter into such views.
The jungle in which the tree occurs is of the usual heavy description, presenting in fact no one feature in particular. The trees are all of a tropical nature, except towards the foot of the hills, when two species of chesnut and one of alder begin to shew themselves.