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Continues the Journey from Hookhoom Valley; Lat. 26°20' N., Long. 96°40' E., towards Ava.
March 28th.-Started at 5? A.M., and arrived at a halting place at 3? P.M. General direction nearly south. Distance 22 miles. Throughout the first part we followed the Kampyet, on the left bank of which Wulloboom is situated. We thence diverged into jungle. The remainder of the time was occupied in crossing low hills, with here and there a small plain. We halted on a nullah, which discharges itself into the Mogam river.
In the Kampyet I saw abundance of Bookhar fish: these indeed actually swarm. The country throughout was uninteresting, although in the tree jungle clothing the small hills we crossed there are noble timber trees. I saw one of the finest Fici, I ever saw. The Botany of these hills was very interesting; for instance, a Conifera taxoidea occurred, a new Cyrtandracea, ditto Acanthace? 2, Begoni? 2, Tankervillia speciosa, a species of Bletea, etc. etc.
I also observed Linds?a, and Pteris in abundance. Hymenophyllum, Davallia atrata, Diplazium, Begonia Malabarica? Bambusa spiculis hispidis, Hypni sp. spinivenio prop. Dicranum glaucum, etc. etc. A fine Alpinia occurred near Wulloboom.
We observed no other signs of population than an old burial ground, near where you strike off into the hills.
March 29th.-Marched in a southerly direction from 5? to 1? P.M., inclusive of a halt of two hours nearly: distance fifteen miles. Country, etc. continue the same. Crossed same nullahs en route, before we reached the Mogam river at 11 A.M. Our course continued down it for 300 yards; we then crossed into the jungle, and traversed a low rising ground: subsequently we descended on the bed of the river. The jungle was for the most part dry.
Fish abound in the Mogam river; in one place I never saw such swarms of Bookhar, thousands must have been congregated. The river is of no great size, the extreme banks being at our halting place about 30 yards distant. No rapids occur here, and the stream is in general gentle.
Noticed the Shorea, which is the Foung bein of the Burmese. Some occurred of gigantic size. It is strange, but a considerable change has occurred in the Flora since we left Hookhoom. Thus, Jonesia and Peronema, Jack? or at least one of the involucrate Vitices occurred, as well as a large Byttneria? fructibus echinatissimis. A climbing species of Strychnos, a Diospyros, a Sapindacea, were the principal new plants. Dicksonia and Polypodium Wallichianum continue.
Slackia of Cuttackboom has white infundibuliform bilabiate flowers, tubo brevi, deorsum leniter curvato, lobo medio labii inferioris reliquis minore, lab. super. intus biplicato, plicis sursum convergentibus, stam. quinto valde rudimentario, antheris apice coh?rentibus. The new Cyrthandracea of yesterday is suigeneris, Ramondi? affinis. Of this there are three species, two of which I have not seen in flower. Calycis lacini? lineari-subulat?. Cor. rotata, subregularis Stam. 4, subsessilia connectivis amplis, quinto minimo dentiformi. Stylus declinatus, Stigma subsimplex, Capsula (per junior) siliquosa. Herb? vel suffrutices, hispid?, habitu peculiari. Folia alterna! vel summa sparsa vel ob approximationem sub-opposita: intervenia areolata, areolis piliferis, pilis basi bulbosis. Inflorescentia axillaris, cymosa, dichotoma.
The Tankervellia (or Pharus?) has sepala pet. conformia extus alba, intus fusco-brunnea, labellum cucullatum, breve, calcaratum; intus inconspicue bilamellatum; extus albidum margines versus exceptis qua uti intus fusco-sanguineum, fauce saturatiore. Column? alb? clavale sursum subulata. Anthera fere immersa, Rostellum integrum ut in omnibus glandula orbotis Pollinia 8. 5 A.M.-Temperature 62. 210.
March 30th.-Marched for about thirteen miles along the bed of the river, and a more uninteresting march I never had. We breakfasted about four miles from our halting place at the granary of the Meewoon. The bed of the river continues wider, and more sandy: the water being in general shallow. The only acquisitions met with to-day are Grislea, an arborescent Capparidea, and a pretty Grewia. Of birds, I noticed the Avocet, or curved-billed Plover, the grey Kingfisher, the green Pigeon, and the snake-bird, Plutus Levalliantia. The plants occupying the banks and the bed of the river are the same, viz. Ehretia, Saccharum spontaneum, spirale; Kagara, Erythrina, Ficus, Gnaphalia, Podomolee, Bombax. Of fish, Cyprinus falcata, and Nepoora mas, occur in this river.
Temperature at 5? A.M. 6l. Water boils at 210.
March 31st.-Continued our march down the Mogaung river, passing through a most uninteresting, inhospitable-looking tract. General direction S.E., distance fourteen miles. The river is not much enlarged: it is still shallow, and much spread out, and impeded by fallen trees and stumps; it is navigable for small boats up to the Meewoon's granary. Noticed ?sculus in flower. Of birds, saw the grey and black-bellied Tern.
The Botanical novelties are an arborescent Salix, a ditto Cordia floribus suave odoratis, Phyllanthus Embelica.
Saw some cultivation on low hills to the S.E. and E. inhabited by Kukheens. 1st April. Temperature 63. Water 210? altitude.
April 1st.-Started at 5?. Leaving almost directly the Mogaung river we traversed extensive open plains, halting for breakfast on the Wampama Kioung. This we crossed, continuing through open plains until we came to patches of jungle consisting of trees, and quite dry. We subsequently traversed more open plains until we reached the Mogaung river, on the opposite (right) bank of which Camein is situated. These plains were in many places quite free from trees; they are, except towards the south, quite surrounded with low hills, the highest of which are to the E., and among these, Shewe Down Gyee, from which the Nam Tenai rises, is pre-eminent, looking as if it were 3000 feet high, and upwards. The hills although generally wooded are in many places quite naked; and as the natives say, this is not owing to previous cultivations, I suppose that they are spots naturally occupied entirely by Gramine?. The plains slope towards the hills on either side. They are covered with Gramine?; among which Imperata, occasionally Podomolee and Saccharum, Anthistiria arundinacea, a tall Rottboelia, and Andropogon occur; and in the more open spaces a curious Rottboellioidea, glumis ciliatis, is common. In addition a Polygala, a Crucifera with bracte? and white flowers, an Acanthacea, Prenanthes? Centranthera tetrastachys are met with. The trees are quite different from those of Hookhoom; the principal one is a Nauclea; Bombax, Wendlandi? sp., a Rhamnea, Phyllanthus, and Bignonia cordifolia occur; the Nauclea giving a character to the scenery. The Botany of the patches of jungle is varied. Strychnos Nux-vomica is common; Congea tomentosa, Engelhardtia, etc. Bauhinia arborea, and Costus also occur.
Teak occurred to-day for the first time, but not in abundance, neither were the specimens fine: it was past flowering, it occurred only between the patches of jungle among grass. I should have mentioned, that throughout the first portion of the plains traversed, a dioceous dwarf Ph?nix was not rare, as well as an Herpestes. A beautiful Rose occurs on the banks of nullahs, and at Camein, on the Mogaung river: it has large white flowers, involucrate; smell sweet like that of a Jonquil.
The general direction of the march was S.S.E. Distance fourteen miles.
Camein consists of two stockaded villages: the smaller one being situated on a small hill on the Endaw Kioung, which comes from near the serpentine mines, and falls into the Mogaung river here; this has about twelve houses: the one below about twenty, the inhabitants are Shans chiefly, and appear numerous and healthy. Assamese slaves are not uncommon.
Observed the large blue Kingfisher of the Tenasserim coast, Alcedo sinensis.
The day's Botany was very interesting, more so than that of any other days, excepting two on the higher ranges of the Naga hills. The Crucifera is highly interesting. In the woods Alstonia and Elephantopus; Salvinia is common in marshes.
April 2nd.-Left at 10 A.M., proceeding over the low hill to the W. of lower Camein; our course continued traversing low ranges and small intermediate plains, which we skirted. At noon we reached the Tsee Een nullah, where we found a large party of Shan Chinese, returning from the mines; they had but few Ponies, and still fewer Mules. Their dress, appearance, habits, etc. are those of the lower orders of Chinese. After leaving this our course continued over similar country, until we reached the Endaw Kioung at 3 P.M., which we crossed, halting on its left bank; it is a stream of much strength and a broad bed, but shallow. We saw some cultivation on low hills to the W.N.W., and could distinguish two or three houses; it is a small village inhabited by Meereps.
The vegetation of the valleys or plains continues the same, but in addition to the Rottboelleoidea minor, is a curious Andropogon, and on the skirts of the hills a large Anthistiria; some of the finest specimens of teak also occurred. Bamboo in abundance; otherwise the trees are, with a few exceptions, completely changed. A fine arborescent Wendlandia, Bignonia indica? fructibus siliquo-formibus spiraliter tortis, arborea, Kydia, Eurya arborea, and many other fine trees occurred, but these I leave until my return. On one plain I noticed a Cycas, caudice simplici vel dichotomo, and the Ph?nix of yesterday. In the Endaw Kioung two species of Potamogeton, Azolla, and Pistia, Villarsia and Ceratophyllum occur.
April 3rd.-5? A.M. Therm. 55. Water boiled at 210. Elevation 1064 feet.
Continued our journey over similar country, marching from half-past 5 to 1 P.M., including an hour's halt. Distance fifteen miles: general direction S.S.W. Passed many streamlets, and continued for some time close to the Endaw, which is still a largish river, apparently deep, with a sluggish stream. The plains continue, but of much narrower diameter. Met many Shan Chinese and two parties of Mogaung people returning from the mines.
The most interesting plants of to-day are a Santalacea, a climbing species, racemis subpendulis, of Citrus-Citrus scandens, Cardiopteris of which I found old fruit alone, a new Roydsia, R. parviflora mihi.
The vegetation of the plains continues unchanged, a Dillenia with small yellow flowers is common on their skirts, Bignonia cordata occurs as a large tree; no one has seen teak. There is something peculiar in the appearance of the trees of the plains, especially of the Nauclea; they look scraggy. I picked up the flowers of an arborescent Hibiscus, and the fruit of Lagertr?mia grandiflora.
Halted on an old rice khet, near a pool of tolerably clear water.
Bignonia cordata has sweet smelling flowers, lab. medio labii inferioris bicristato. Is it not rather a Viticea, owing to the absence of the 5th stamen? Phlebochiton, Sambucus, Butomus pygm?us. Many portions of the hills are covered with plantains in immense numbers, (not Musa glauca). On hills bounding to the south, one or two spots of cultivation belonging to a village in the interior occur. The Shans wear curious sandals made of a sort of hemp, at least those who do not wear the usual Chinese shoes. 4th.-5? A.M. Temperature 55?. Water boiled at 210. Elevation as before.
April 4th.-Continued our course through exactly the same kind of country, the plains becoming much narrower. Reached the path leading to Keouk Seik after five hours' marching, and up to this our course was nearly the same with that of yesterday, between W.S.W. and S.W. We did not see the village; several (seven or eight) houses are visible on the hill, which here extends north and south, and along which runs a nullah, the Kam Theem.
From this place our course continued almost entirely over low hills not exceeding 800 feet above us, until we halted on the margin of a plain bounded to the W. by the Boom, which runs N. and S., the direction being W.N.W. Distance seventeen miles. On our march we met several parties of Shans, Burmese, and Singphos. The path from the village to this is much better, and much more frequented than any of the other parts. Most of the parties were loaded with Serpentine. Noticed en route, both on the plains and on the hills, Teak; in the latter situations many of the specimens were very fine. Another noble Dipterocarpea arborea was observed. I observed Drymaria, Vallaris solanacea, and a Spathodia, which is common on the plains. Teak is remarkable for the smoothness and peculiar appearance of its bark, so that it seems to have had it stripped off.
Gathered on the hills Ulmus and Hyalostemma, the petals of which are united into a tri-partite corolla, a Cyrtandracea in fruit, and an Olacinea, floribus tri-sepalis, appendicibus 6 apice fimbriatis, stam. 3, sepalis oppositis, racemis erectis.
April 5th.-Reached the mines after a march of about four hours; our course was winding, continuing through jungle and small patches of plain, until we reached the base of that part of the Kuwa Boom which we were to cross, and which bore N.W. from the place at which we slept. The ascent was steep in some places, it bore in a N.N.W. direction, principally through a bamboo jungle. From a clear space half way up, we had a fine and pretty view of the hills and plains, especially to the S. and S.E. In the former direction, and distant about fifteen miles, we saw on our return, the Endaw Gyee, but we could not estimate its size or figure; it is evidently however a large sheet of water; the natives say, several miles across. From the summit, we likewise had a fine view of the country to the E.; very few plains were visible in this direction. Nearly due east, and about thirty miles off, was visible Shewe Down Gyee, and this will make Camein nearly due east also, or E. by S. The descent passed through similar jungle, that at the foot being damp. The course continued in a direction varying from S. to W., or rather between these points, through damp jungle. We then ascended another steep hill, but not exceeding 5 or 600 feet in height; descending from this, and passing through low tree and then bamboo jungle, we reached the mines.
The road was, up to the base of Kuwa Boom on the W. side, very good, thence it was in general bad; wet, slippery, much impeded by blocks of serpentine, and foliated limestone (Bayfield) crossing several streams, mountain torrents, the principal one being Sapya Khioung. This takes its name from a spring of water of alkaline properties, which bubbles up sparingly from under its rocky bed, and which must be covered during the rains. The water is clear, of a pure alkaline taste, and is used by the natives as soap.
The mines occupy a valley of a somewhat semi-circular form, bounded on all sides by hills clothed with trees, none being of very great height. The valley passes off to the N. into a ravine, down which the small stream that percolates the valley escapes, and in this at about a coss distant other pits occur. The surface of the valley apparently at one time consisted of low rounded hillocks; it is now much broken, and choked up with the earth and stones that have been thrown up by excavating. The stone is found in the form of more or less rounded boulders imbedded with others, such as quartz, etc. in brickish-yellow or nearly orange clay. The boulders vary much in size. There is no regularity in the pits, which are dug indiscriminately; some have the form of ditches, none exceed 20 feet in depth. They are dug all over the valley, as well as on the base of the hill bounding it to the W. and N.W. We could not obtain any good specimens, nor is there any thing in the spot that repays the visit. No machinery is used, the larger blocks are broken by fire. But that they are of importance in the light of increasing the revenue, is evident, from the fact that B. counted, since we left Camein, 1,100 people on their return, of whom about 700 were Shan Chinese. The loads carried away are in some cases very heavy; the larger pieces are carried on bamboo frames by from two to five men, the lesser on a stout piece of bamboo lashed to and supported on two cross or forked bamboos, the stouter joint resting on the bearer's neck, the handles of the forks being carried in his hands. The most obvious advantage of this is the ease with which the load may be taken off, when the bearer is fatigued. The revenue yielded last year, B. tells me, was 320 viss of silver, or about 40,000 rupees. The length of the valley from E. to W. is about three quarters of a mile; its breadth varies from 460 to 800 yards.
On our return we boiled water at the Soap spring, which is about 50 feet above the mines, Temp. of the air 80?. 2? P.M. of boiling water 209. Elevation 1600 feet. And on the top of Kuwa Boom, which is crossed at a comparatively low place, at 4? P.M. Temp. of the air 76, of boiling water 207. Elevation 2678 feet.
I can say nothing as to the peculiar features of the vegetation, in the woods towards Kuwa Boom. I gathered three Aurantiace?; the Olacinea of yesterday is common, a large arborescent Artocarpus fructibus oblongis sub-informibus, sub-acidulis, ? uncialibus; Teak rarely; Tonabea, noble specimens occur; on the Kuwa Boom, a large Gordonia arborea, two arborescent Myrtacea, large Mangoes, Bamboo, a Morinda; Magnoli?cea occurs on its western face, as well as the Conifera toxoidea before gathered. Dicksonia and Pladera justicioidea both occur. Dianella nemorosa, etc. The Serpentine is carried from Keoukseik in boats down the Endaw Kioung, thence to Camein, and from whence it goes to Mogam, which is probably the principal mart. Calamus spioris petiolorum uncialibus verticillatis occurs in abundance in all the damp jungle.
We returned in the afternoon to our halting place of yesterday, from which the mines are distant ten miles, four of which occur from the side of Kuwa Boom to the West. The Endaw Gyee is situated on a plain, but it is enclosed by hills on every side except the S.E. Those to the south are very high.
April 6th.-Returned, diverging from the path to the village Keoukseik. Noticed Liriodendron, ?sculus, Achyranthis aspera, Vallaris solanacea, etc.
The village is situated to the S. of the road to the mines; it is close to the Nam Teen, and on a small elevation; it is stockaded. The number of houses is about sixteen; of inhabitants, including children, 120: all the houses, except two, being small. The merchants, etc. employed about the mines, halt on the Nam Theen, which is up to this point navigable for small boats.
Thermometer 66. 6? A.M. Temp. of boiling water 210.
April 8th.-Reached Camein at noon: halted on the 7th at our former hut on the Endaw Kioung. The additional plants noticed are Duchesnia indica, common in wet places; a Bamboo, paniculis (culmis) nutantibus aphyllis, amplus. Pandanus; Curculigo pumila, floribus sub-solitarius ante folia, 6 vel. 4 partitis; a Careya, Dillenia, arborea floribus numerosis parvis luteis.
?schynomena, Anthistiria arundinacea, Composita arborea, 40-50 pedalis. Another species of Anthistiria, common on the margins of hills during the march. Fir trees are reported to exist on Lioe Peik, which bears South from Kioukseik. Volcanic hills reported to exist near the Endaw Gyee, but no salt rock occurs. This mineral is said to be found three days' march from Kioukseik on the Nam Theen. The revenue said to accrue from the Serpentine mines, is probably highly exaggerated; and the supply of the stone is said to be diminishing yearly. Casually found on the Nam Toroon, a Sterculia arborea, florib-masculis clavato, infundibul. coccineis, pubescentibus: a Sophora, floribus albidis pallidissima ceruleo tinctis, of which the flowers alone were seen; Prenanthis flosentis citrinis, a Polygala and Hypericum were likewise found.
April 9th.-Left Camein at 6, and reached Mogoung at 6 P.M. after a march of at least twenty-five miles. The course at first was nearly due east, until we reached the Nam Pong, but subsequently it became more southerly. Camein bears from this about S.S.E. The country traversed was the same, generally comparatively open, that is to say, grassy plains with Rhamnea, Nauclea, Bombax, etc. For some distance the path extended through shady woods. No villages, nor any signs of such were observed en route. We passed many streamlets particularly during the latter half of the march. Our original intention was to have come to Mogoung by water, and with this view Bayfield told the man sent by the Myoowook to procure two or three canoes. At 6 A.M. the Havildar came up to our hut, and said that the headman of the village was disputing violently about our taking the boats. Bayfield proceeded down to the river side, where the Yua Thugee was very insolent, and he and his followers drew their dhaos (swords) on Bayfield, who slightly pushed the Thugee. It ended in our going by land. We had previously heard of the rebellion at Ava: the Thugee's behaviour evidently arose partly from this. I did not observe the dispute, as I remained near the stockade.
Noticed a Lonicera in low places, and the Viola of Suddiya on the plains, a Cardiopteris, Kempferia, Curcuma, a Bambusa vaginis collo barbatis, a scandent Strychnos, an Aerides, Ardisi? 2, some Acanthace?, Loxotis major, Urtice? 2 or 3, Santalacea as before, Tetranther?, Davallia atrata, Asplenium fronde simplici, etc. etc.
April 10th.-We halt, and hear a report of the death of Mr. Kincaid, and that a Burmese army is en route here. The whole country is most unsettled, all the Singphos and Khukeens being in open rebellion. It appears that Thurrawaddi is meeting with success in his summons for men. No resistance shewn to his authority hitherto except by one Myoowoon. Our Myoowoon has absented himself, and the Myoowook determined on surrender. Bayfield under all circumstances, and failing authentic intelligence of Mr. Kincaid, resolves on remaining here.
Mogam is a rather pretty town, situated on the right bank of the Mogoung river, at the confluence of a river 100 yards broad, the water of which spreads out, in some places, to a considerable breadth and depth. The country is however low, flooded in the rains, and surrounded by hills, except in the direction of Shewe Down Gyee. In many places it is only covered with grass. The town is large, and was formerly stockaded, the remains of the timber stockade being still visible. It contains about 300 houses, about 2,500 inhabitants, mostly Shans. The houses are generally raised, in many cases like those of the Kampties, the chopper coming low down, shaped like a turtle's back. There is a very distinct opening or chasm in the hills between S. D. Gyee and a low range to the North, but no river makes its exit there. Sunday, 16th.
April 18th.-Halted up to this date, waiting for information especially regarding the army at Tsenbo.
In this place two fragrant Dipterocarpe? are found; as also Bixa, Tamarindus, and Carthamus, which last is cultivated and used both for food and dyeing. About the Poongie houses some remarkable Fici occur, the trunk being divided so low down as to give the idea of a group of several trees. The roots in addition are made to spread over the conical mounds, thrown up at their bases.
A race of wild-looking short men, called Lupai Khakoos, inhabit this vicinity, wearing a jacket, and dark-blue cloth with an ornamented border, worn with the ends overlapping in front. They wear garters of the Suwa. Their hair is worn either long or cropped, and a beard is also occasionally worn by the elders.
In this place very few regular Chinese are to be found, and the few that are here seen, are ultra-provincials; none are acquainted with the manufacture of tea. This article is procurable here, but at a high rate; it is sold in flat cakes of some diameter; it is black, coarse, with scarcely any smell, and in taste not much superior to the Assamese article; 20 tickals weight sells for 1?. All the blue cloths of the Shans are dyed, Bayfield informs me, with Ruellia, or jungle indigo.
It is with these people that the only trade seems to be carried on, and this is limited to amber and serpentine. They are very dirty, and excessively penurious, but industrious. Owing to their habits and extreme penury, there is no outlet for our manufactures in this direction; so that I fully agree with Hannay's statement, that 500 rupees worth of British goods would be unabsorbed for some years. Rosa is common, also a Rumex; a Sisymbroid plant also occurs. Among the trees, all which are stunted, Gmelina arborea occurs. There are some Assamese slaves here among the people, one of them is said to be a relation of Chundra Kant, the Suddiya chief: slaves are held in very small estimation with the Burmese. Thus Bayfield asked his writer, who such a one standing near him was, whether a Shan or Singpho? The man answered, "My lord, it is not a man; it is a Waidalee."
Altogether, Mogoung is an uninteresting place; the surrounding plains are barren-looking, and inhospitable, and clothed with grass. Here and there a ragged Nauclea, Careya, etc. is visible with Gmelina arborea. The undershrubs are chiefly a Rhamnoidea, and a Phyllanthus. Rosa is common; Rumex and Nasturtium are both met with.
News arrived yesterday evening to the effect, that the King is drowned, the heir-apparent in the palace: and that Colonel Burney is with Thurrawadi!!!
My collections up to this place amount to 900 species.
April 19th.-Left at 12, and halted after having gone about four miles. The river continues the same as above; it is a good deal impeded by trees, and much more so by sandbanks.
April 20th.-Reached Tapaw in the afternoon; our progress is, however, very slow the stream being slight, but the river is much improved; being less spread out, owing to its greater proximity to the low hills: often very deep, generally clothed with jungle to the water's edge. On the hills near Tapaw are some Khukeens of the Thampraw tribe, and on these hills bitter tea is reported to be found. This the Khukeens bring down for sale.
April 21st.-Continued our course, performing about twelve miles between 7 and 5, inclusive of one hour's halt. At some distance from Tapaw and thence throughout the day, here and there occur rapids, which are much worse, from the stream being impeded by large rocks. In some places it is divided, in others, compressed between hills, and here it is very deep.
April 23rd.-Arrived at the Irrawaddi. The Mogoung river is very uninteresting; the stream being generally slow, sandbanks very abundant, as well as stumps of sunken trees. At its mouth it is deep, and about seventy yards across. The banks are either overgrown with trees or else grassy; the grasses being Arundo and Saccharum. On the steep banks of the hills where these descend into the river, ferns are common together with an Amaryllidea out of flower. Cadaba is common, as well as a large Mimosea. Rosa continues; as also ?sculus. On the road by which the Chinese branch off from Tapaw to the Irrawaddi, I gathered an arborescent Apocynea foliis suboppositis, and a Homalineous tree, floribus tetrameris; Salix is common all down the river. Teak only occurs occasionally. In one place I gathered Lonicera heterophylla, a fragrant Valeriana? and Jonesia in abundance; this last being here apparently quite wild. Adelia nereifolia, a Ficus, Ehretia arenarum, and the usual sandy plants occur on the banks. Pistia, Salvinia and Azolla are common.
The Irrawaddi opposite the entrance of the Mogoung river, is 600 yards across. It is a noble stream; has risen a good deal, and presents one unbroken sheet of water. The banks are by no means high, and are grassed to the brink. The water is cold and clouded; its temperature is 66?°, that of air in a boat 88?. We reached Tsenbo about 1 o'clock, having passed five or six villages, mostly small, and inhabited by Shans. Tsenbo numbers about 30 houses, but these as throughout Burma, as far as we have seen, are small; it is situated on a low hill on the left bank. Both banks are hilly, especially the right. The river has risen enormously during a halt here-many feet. In one hour we found it to rise about 16 inches. At this place I gathered a fine blue Vanda, and a curious tree habitu Thespi?: stigmatibus 4. Between this and the entrance to the narrow defile Kioukdweng, which is about 1? miles distant, three villages occur. This entrance is well marked, the river becoming suddenly contracted from 300 to less than 100 yards. We halted about 6? P.M. at Lemar. Noticed four or five villages between Lemar and the village at the entrance of the defile. All these villages are inhabited by Poans, a distinct hill tribe. Passed through two fearful places, one in particular where the whole body of water rushes through a gate, formed by huge rocks not 50 yards wide.
April 24th.-Continued our course, and arrived at Bamoo about 5? P.M.; the greater part of the journey extended through the Kioukdweng, or defile, in which some terrific places occur, one in particular known by two rocks which are called the Elephant and Cow. Passed several small villages before we made our exit from the K. dweng: all inhabited by Poans. Between this and Bamoo the country along the river is truly magnificent, and is well inhabited. The largest village contains about 70 houses; at least seven or eight occur, between the points above noted.
The Kioukdweng is a remarkable and an awful object. The greatest breadth of the river while confined within this defile does not exceed 250 yards, and in all the bad places it is contracted to within 100, occasionally 50. From the enormous rise of the river, which, last night alone amounted to an increase of ten feet, the passage is one continued scene of anxiety. In the places above referred to the river rushes by with great velocity, while the return waters caused on either side by the surrounding rocks, occasion violent eddies and whirlpools, so as to render the boat unmanageable, and if upset the best swimmer could not live in these places. The rocks are serpentine and grey limestone, presenting angular masses which project into the stream; the former in all places within high-water mark is of a dark-brown colour. Micaceous slate? likewise occurs, although rarely. The depth is of course enormous, in the low state of the river, when Bayfield passed up, in many places no bottom was found, at 25 or even 40 fathoms, and at this season the water had no doubt risen 40 feet higher. Some idea of the rise that has taken place may be formed from the fact, that in places where, when Bayfield passed up, the stream did not exceed 70 yards in width, it was now 200; and of course a rise of 20 feet in the open river, would determine one of at least 40 within the K. dweng. After passing the Elephant and Cow, which have the usual resemblance implied by their fanciful names, the river widens and becomes tranquil. The whole of this Kioukdweng is truly remarkable, and in many places very picturesque.
The vegetation is, I imagine, similar to that of the low hills about Mogoung; but so dangerous was the passage, that I had but few opportunities of going ashore. The hills are thinly wooded, and all bear many impressions of former clearings; but the spots now under cultivation are certainly few. Besides, we must bear in mind, that the spots cultivated generally throughout thinly populated parts of India are deserted after the first crop, so that a very limited population may clear a great extent of ground. Bayfield tells me, and I consider his authority as excellent, that the population is almost entirely limited to the villages seen during the passage. These do not exceed twelve, and they are all small. None of the hills exceed 500 feet in height (apparently,) they do not present any very peculiar features.
Below the maximum high-water mark the vegetation is all stunted, at least that of the rocks; a tufted Graminea is the most common. Adelia nereifolia (Roxb.), a Celastrinea, a curious Rubiacea, which I also have from Moulmain, two Myrtace?, a Rungia, are the most common. I did not observe Podocarpus. In the occasionally sandy spots Campanula, the usual Composit?, Panica three. Eleusine, Clenopodium, and Atriplex are common, a Stemodia, and Asclepiadea likewise occur. One Clematis carpellis imberbibus, and the Lonicera are met with. No mosses appear to occur. One remarkable tree, Belhoe of Assam, 70 feet high, cortice albido, foliis orbato, panculis (fructus) pendulis, occurs: it has the appearance of an Amentaceous tree.
April 27th.-We have remained at Bamoo; nothing appears to have been settled below, and the river is reported to be unsafe. It has fallen at least three feet since our arrival. Bayfield measured the left channel yesterday; it is nearly 750 yards wide.
Bamoo is situated on the left bank, along which its principal street runs. The town is a very narrow one, the breadth averaging about 200 yards; its extent is considerable, but it scarcely contains 600 houses, and of these 105 are Chinese, and only has one good street, i.e. as to length. Neither are the houses at all good or large, so that the population cannot be established at more than 3000. I allude only to those within the stockade; out of this, and close to Bamoo are two or three small villages. The stockade is of timber, pangaed, or fenced outside for about 30 yards; it has just been completely repaired, as an attack is expected from the Khukeens.
The Chinamen live all together, in a street of low houses built of unbaked bricks; these are not comparable to the houses at Moulmain. There is but little trade now going on. Within the stockade and without, low swampy ravines occur, that cannot be but injurious to the healthiness of the town. The Myoowoon spends all his money in pagodas, none of which are worth seeing: all the roads and bridges he leaves to take care of themselves.
The inferior caked tea, sugarcandy, silk dresses, straw hats, and caps are procurable, but at a high price. Pork is plentiful, and the bazaar is well supplied with fish. It is a much more busy place than Mogoung, as well as considerably larger. The chief export trade with the Chinese is cotton; the revenue however by no means equals that of the Mogoung district.
The country around is nearly flat; on one side of the stockade there is an extensive marsh well adapted for paddy. Otherwise the ground is dry, and tolerably well drained; it appears to have been formerly wooded; at present the environs are occupied by undershrubs. I have observed no peculiar botanical feature. Among the undershrubs are Phyllanth? 2, Apocynea arborescens, Gelonium, Combretum, Strychnos, Vitex, Melastoma. When I say undershrubs, I mean that such is their present appearance. The only new plant is an elegant Capparis, subscandens, floribus albis, odoratis demum filamentisque purpureo-roseis. About old Pagodas, Pladera of Moulmain, a Labiata, Stemodia, and Andropogon occur.
The cultivated plants are those of the coast, Hyperanthera Moringa, Bixa Orellana, Calotropis gigantea, Artocarpus integrifolia, a Phyllanthus, Cordia Myxa, Carica Papaya, Citrus medica, Plantains, a large and coarse Custard Apple, Mango, Zyziphus, Cocos, Taliera, Agati.
The climate is dry and sultry, the diurnal range of the Thermometer being from 28 to 32°. At this season, viz. at 6? A.M. from 66 to 68; 4 P.M. from 94 to 96. North winds are common, daily commencing from that quarter, or terminating there. They are not accompanied by much rain, although the weather is unsettled.
May 2nd.-A Khukeen whom Bayfield sent for tea returned, bringing with him many specimens out of flower. The striking difference between this and the tea I have hitherto seen, consists in the smallness and finer texture of the leaves. For although a few of the specimens had leaves measuring six by three inches, yet the generality, and these were mature, measured from four to three, by two to three. As both entire and serrated leaves occur, the finer texture was more remarkable. The bitterness, as well as the peculiar flavour were most evident. Young leaves were abundant.
The Khukeens make no use of the tea. The Chinese here talk of this as the jungle tea, and affirm that it cannot be manufactured into a good article. They talk of the valuable sorts as being very numerous, and all as having small leaves. Neither here nor at Mogoung are there any real Chinamen, nor is there any body who understands the process of manufacturing tea. The caked tea is not made to adhere by the serum of sheep's blood, it adheres owing to being thus packed before it is dry. The plain around Bamoo is intersected by ravines, which afford good paddy cultivation; no large trees occur within 1? miles of the town. At this distance a large Dipterocarpea is common. In the underwood around the town, a Dipterocarpus, arbuscula, foliis maximis, oblongo-cordatis, Gordonia, Lagerstr?mia parviflora, Elodea, Nauclea; Leguminos? 3, Gelonia, Combretum, Jasminum occur. In the marshes Ammannia rotundifolia, Cyrilla, Azolla, Marsilea, and Salvinia, Serpicula, Ceratophyllum; a Campanula arenosa reaches thus far.
Every day indecent sights occur in the river, owing to the women bathing without clothes, and either with or near the men. They appear to be indifferent to the concealment of their person, breasts, and hoc genus omne, being freely exposed. They swim very well, and in a curious way. They make their escape by squatting down in the water, unfolding their cloth, and springing up behind it. As for the men, they appear to take a pride in exposing every part of their bodies. No gazers-on occur among these people, such not being the fashion.
The Shan Tarooks who trade with this place use oxen in addition to other beasts of burden; the breed appears good, resembling the smaller kind of India.
The Irrawaddi here is between the extreme banks a little less than 1? miles broad; the channel on which Bamo is situated is the largest, and is 800 yards across. Two other channels exist, of which the west is the smallest, and carries off least water. The river is a good deal sub-divided by sandbanks, but is, compared with the Burrumpooter a confined river. Since our arrival here it has sunk several (say five or six) feet, and no longer looks the noble river it did on our arrival.
The sandbanks when they do exist are either naked, or clothed with partial and not gigantic grassy vegetation. I have not seen any thing comparable to the churs of the B. pooter in this respect. The temperature of the river is not particularly low, and is much higher now than during the rise. From Bamoo the opening of the Kioukdweng is not conspicuous, nobody unacquainted with the course of the river would imagine that it passes through the range of hills to the N. and NNE. The highest hills visible are to the east. They are within a day's journey, and are clothed to their summits. Some appear 3000 feet high.
Low hills inhabited by wild Khukeens, are visible nearly all around, except perhaps due west. The wild fierce nature of these people is attended with a great extent of mischief, quite unchecked, without eliciting even precautionary measures on the part of the Burmese Government.
There are a few angles in the Bamoo stockade, and these exist because a straight line cannot be preserved; and large torches are placed out on levers for illuminating the enemy, and loop-holes are cut through the timbers; watch-houses are likewise placed at certain points. There are two rows of pangahs or fences outside, but not the Singpho pangahs. Notwithstanding all this the river face is quite defenceless.
The soil is dry and sandy, and cultivation is carried on principally on the churs. Pumpkins and Gourds are abundant; Yams, (Dioscorea,) not very good. Rice is sold at the usual price, a basket full for a rupee. The town is dirty, and not kept in any order.
May 6th.-We left Bamoo, and in three hours reached Kounglaun, a rather large village on the left bank, containing 100 houses, many of which are respectable, better indeed than any in Bamoo. It contains many small ruined pagodas. A gigantic tree grows within the stockade, which is a very poor one. Punica Granatum, and Beloe, were the only plants of interest observed in the neighbourhood.
We passed several (six or seven) villages, none except one with more than thirty houses; the one alluded to had sixty. All the houses continue small. The river is here much subdivided, and in many places shallow; sandbanks are common. Vegetation of banks is almost entirely Gramine?, and coarse strong-smelling Composit?. The grasses are different from those previously met with, except the Arundo. Rosa continues; Salix is common. Between Koungloung and Tsenkan, which is on the same bank, and close to the entrance to the Kioukdweng, three villages are met with; but none of any size. Tsenkan is prettily situated on a high bank, or rather low hill. The houses are about 100 in number, all poor and small. The stockade is a miserable affair. There are some good Poonghie houses, and a very pretty group of pagodas on a small rock. The country is jungly; just above the town a nullah enters the Irrawaddi: it is down this that large quantities of teak is brought, from hills two days' journey to the eastward; some large rafts were seen, but although some of the timbers were stout, none were of any great size. I gathered a pretty Hippocrateaceous plant in the jungles, as well as a Combretum; a Vitex, an Amyridea, etc. Phrynium dichotomum occurs here; Rosa continues; Jatropha is cultivated.
May 7th.-Started at 5 A.M., and entered the Kioukdweng almost immediately. We halted about 7, at Tsenbo. Noticed ?sculus, Sisymbrium, Campanula, Adelia nereifolia, Dillania speciosa, the usual Composit?, and largish Dipterocarpe?. The river is a good deal narrowed, but never less than 130 yards across, and as there are no rocks in any direction to impede the stream, the water flows but slowly and very placidly. Almost all the rocks forming the hills are grey carbonate of lime. These hills are covered to high-water mark, with scanty somewhat stunted trees, the most of which have no foliage. The scenery is by no means so bold as in the upper K. dweng, although just above Tsenbo, there is a noble cliff, 300 feet high, and almost perpendicular; under its ledges we observed great numbers of bees' nests. The rock when exposed is rather greyish black, and in many places reddish. Serpentine occurs, but is not common. A good deal of lime is prepared in this Kioukdweng, and some portions of it in the rugged serrated appearance, remind one of the limestone cliffs on the coast. Above Tsenbo and nearly opposite the cliff, is a small village of eight houses. Tsenbo numbers fifteen; it is on the left bank, and is a miserable place. Here we were left by our escort which accompanied us from Tsenkan, and the Thogee refused positively to give us two or three men to row. Although master of a miserable hole, he had made preparations for defence, and had set on foot a custom house. We saw a good many boats passing up, all evidently containing families moving away from their villages.
In this Kioukdweng a fine Palm exists, which I have never seen before. Caudex 10-15 pedalis, crassa, petiolorum basibus processibus vestitis, frondibus pinnatis, 10 pedalibus, pinnis ensifornibus 2 to 2? pedalibus, subtus glaucis, diametro 1? uncialibus, basi valde obliquis, bilobis! lobo inferiore maximo, decurrenti, uninervi: floribus in spadicibus nutanti-curvatis, amplis, basi spathaceis spicato-paniculatis. Florib. masculis polyandris.
Petiol. bases cretos?, intus processubus atris, subulatis, longissimis robustis quasi panicillatis.
Habitus quodammodo Wallichi?. Hab. in Umbrosissimis.
An arbuscula Anonacea, floribus dioicis, Mas. coroll? petalis apice valvatim coh?rentibus, basi apertis, potius distantibus, Ovariis (f?m) pedicellatis, also occurred.
Fructus elliptico-oblongus, subuncialis, hinc a basi ad styli punctum linea tenui exsculptus, unilocularis, unisporus. Endocarp, ac testa viscoso-gelatinosa. Testa ac tegumen intera membr. chartacea. Albumen copiosum hinc et sutur? fructus opposit?, profundius exarat. sectione transversa-reniformi. Carnoso albumeni germen secus sulcum affixium. Embryo in axi albuminis, radicul super. Cotyledones foliace?, alb?, ampl?, curvat seminis sequentes: sutur? placental, opposit?. Ejusdem generis cum Menispermea: in sylvis Singfoensibus cum Wallichia: vide Icones.
Arrived at Kioukgyee at 5 P.M. Waited on and dined with the Meewoon, who is a gentlemanly, spare, lively man with grey hair. Dinner was good, and clean. Preserved dried jujubes from China, as well as some preserved by himself were very good. Kioukgyee is on the right bank of the river, which is here undivided by islands, and about 1200 yards broad. Just above the town there are some rocks. The number of houses is about eighty-five, most of them arranged in a broad street running along the river, and the best that I have seen for some time.
The village is surrounded by a new and wretched stockade, the outskirts being fenced or pangaed; the people are on the qui vive, and the whole village seems to be in a constant state of alarm. All the jungle immediately adjoining the town is cut down; many of the houses are unroofed, and all the gates are guarded. Visited this morning the lines occupied by the attacking force; these were not 300 yards from the village, and occupied the skirts of the jungle: trees had been felled and earth thrown up, but not in such a manner as to obstruct in any way tolerably brave men. We saw none of the slain, we may therefore doubt if there were any, but it was evident from platters, etc. strewed about, that the flight of the robbers had been very precipitate. We passed some little distance above this, a holy island, the numberless small pagodas on which, had a very pretty effect. Close to these there was a small village, Sheweygyoo, which had been just burnt down by the Kioukgyee people, for giving assistance to the robbers; this as well as two other contiguous villages before occupied a good extent of the left bank, and numbered probably 150 houses. Most of the inhabitants have retreated up the river.
May 8th.-Reached Katha at 6 P.M. Throughout the day saw little of interest. What we did see, gave evident tokens of disturbances,: villages deserted; dogs starved, howling piteously; canoes without owners. At one village a few miles below Kioukgit, our arrival caused much excitement, and a gun was fired off as a signal of alarm on our approach.
May 9th.-Katha is on the right bank of the Irrawaddi; it is situated on an eminence, and commands a fine view of a fine reach of the river; the situation indeed is excellent. It contains nearly 200 houses, but these are not of the better description. To the west is a fine chain of hills, the lowest ranges of which are distant about one mile and a half; the highest peaks are perhaps 1500 feet. No signs of alarm or disturbances are here visible, although part of the force that invested Kioukgit came from this village. We here learn the agreeable news that the country below is quiet, and that no robbers now infested the road. The Thogee is a fine looking young man; very polite. This village boasts of some pretty pagodas, well grouped, and a very fine Kiown, the workmanship of which astonished me, particularly the carving; it is built of teak, the posts being very stout, and very numerous. Several merchant boats left before us, apparently anxious for our escort.
Behind the town is a large plain used for the cultivation of paddy. Otherwise the jungle comes close to the houses, although the larger trees have been felled for firewood, etc.: the woods are dry, and tolerably open. In the morning I went out towards the hills; the chief timber trees are a fine Dipterocarpus, and a Hopea; Pentapetes likewise occurs; Terminalia Chebula. Gathered a fine Arum, somewhat like A. campanulatum. An arboreous Gardenia, as at Mergui; Myrtacea, Vitex, Bauhinia of yesterday; Randia, Andropogon aciculare; some stunted bamboos were likewise observed. Altogether Katha is the prettiest place I have yet seen. The river opposite it is confined to one bed, about 500 yards broad.
May 9th.-Left at 7 A.M., and reached the mouth of the Shwe Lee at 1 P.M.; the distance according to B. being sixteen miles. Passed a few villages, but none of any size; the houses of all continue of the same description. The river presents the same features. Salix continues. Sandbanks occupied by annual Composit? occur, two Polygona, Campanula, a Ranunculus, much like that of Suddiya, a Labiata, Paronychia, two Spermacoces; Bombax occurs just below Katha; Salix and Rosa continue. Shwe Lee is a considerable river, at the mouth between 4 and 500 yards broad; but one-third of this is unoccupied by water, and the stream is not deep, although of the ordinary strength. Above, it narrows considerably.
7? P.M. Temperature of the air 76°. Of Irrawaddi 74°.
May 9th.-Tsa-gaiya. This is a mean village on the left bank, about eighteen miles from Katha; it is close to a low range of hills, and occupies part of a plain, which is adapted for paddy cultivation. Near the village to the North, is a small jeel, covered to a great extent with a large Scirpus, Jussi?a, Azolla, Salvinia, etc. Water-fruits are abundant; round this paddy is cultivated, and they appear to cut it at this time. Low ground near the jeel is covered with a low, handsome Stravadium or Barringtonia, as well as a Xanthophyllum, resembling exceedingly in appearance a Leguminosa: the wood is hard. Calamus is also common. A handsome Nauclea occurs, and on the grassy margins of the plain a small Euphrasia is common.
During our stage I observed large quantities of Bombax, and a tree apparently the Beloe of Assam; the banks were either grassy or wooded, especially on the right bank, which is skirted entirely by hills of the same barren looking description. The grasses are all small compared with those of Assam.
May 10th.-Reached Tagoung late in the evening at 7?: distance thirty-two miles. The river continues the same; the hills on the left bank are much broken into ravines: all continue clothed with the same stunted vegetation.
May 11th.-Tagoung is a miserable village on the left bank; it occupies a rocky eminence, and contains less than 100 houses. It is the most inferior village I have yet seen, the streets being dreadfully dirty and the houses very mean. We visited an old pagoda, about a mile from the town, which is surrounded by an antique wall, much obscured by jungle, and more resembling a bund. On our route hither we landed at Thigan, a village containing about forty houses, and prettily situated at the foot of a hill of micaceous sandstone, on the right bank. At this place are the remains of a fort built by the Chinese, of slabs of the rock forming the hill. Similar remains exist at Myadoung, on the opposite bank, as I learn from Mr. Bayfield. I gathered a Sida, Capparis, Prionitis, Gnaphalium, and a Xanthoxylia petiolis alatis armata; an Adiantum grows between the slabs composing the wall. At Tsenkan I observed an Agave, a different Cactus, a fleshy Euphorbia; and an Ananassa is common all about.
About Tagoung the botany is varied, and interesting. I gathered about fifteen plants that had not occurred before, two Po?, two Andropogons, a Zanthoxylum, and an Olax. The most interesting is an Apocynea, floribus infundibulifor. lamina reflexa, fauce squamis dentatis 10, serie duplici dispositis, interioribus petalis oppositis et majoribus, antheris, in conum stigma omnino coadunatis. Cotton cultivated here; plants taller than usual. The villages around are all forsaken owing to one of them having been attacked by Khukeens, and two men carried off. Hence the population at Tagoung, although usually scanty, is now much increased from adjoining places. A small river falls into the Irrawaddi immediately above Tagoung.
May 12th.-Reached Malé about 6 P.M. Passed en route a few villages, none of any size or importance. The river varies in width, i.e. the channel, from 400 to 600 yards. The banks are either alluvial or rocky; and there are hills on the right bank skirting the river; those on the left, are more distant and higher. Borassus commences to be common; it is a taller, and more slender tree than that of Coromandel, and the trunk is not covered with the persistent bases of the petioles.
The village of Tsebainago is opposite to Malé, and appears nearly of the same size. Both are situated close to the mouth of the third Kioukdweng. Malé contains 150 houses, all small; it is a place of no trade. To the north is a hill forming the river bank, and covered with pagodas; it is the prettiest place we observed after Katha. The soil has now put on the dry sterile appearance of the Coromandel coast, all the trees of which, except the figs, are common; and often render the banks very pretty. Tectona of Hamilton is very common; it is a tree not exceeding in height 40 feet, much resembling in habit the more valuable species; the flowers are blueish, particularly the villi; the leaves have the same excessive rough feel. Two other Verbenace?, a curious Capparidea, caule laxo, foliis lineari-oblongis, basi hastato-cordatis, and a Ximenia are common. On the banks Stravadium, and an arboreous Butea, a Combretum, are common. Low stunted bamboos likewise prevail; and all the bushes are prickly. Nyctanthes is cultivated. The rocks as well as those forming the Kioukdweng, are of coarse sandstone, here and there affording nourishment to abortive Composit?, stunted grasses, Mollugo, etc.
Left Malé, and entered immediately the last Kioukdweng on descending, or the first defile on ascending against the stream. This is a pretty passage, and moreover has no dangerous places; the hills are low, lower than those of the two former passes, consisting of sandstone partially clothed with the same scanty vegetation, presenting the same barren appearance. Olax, Fici, Leguminosa, stunted bamboos, Hippocrateacea, Mimosa, and Stravadium, occur. Celsia on sandy spots, together with Campanula, but this last is becoming rare. Adelia nereifolia continues. An arundo occurs on the naked rocks; Cassia fistula, Tectona Hamiltoniana are also present.
We are much impeded by south-west winds; and owing to this and the slowness of the stream, we were compelled to remain some time at Thee-ha-dau. We there had excellent opportunities of seeing the fish, which are so very tame as to come up to the sides of the boat, and even to allow themselves to be handled. The faqueers of the place call them together; but I think they are not much disposed to come from mere calling, for they seem to require more substantial proofs of being wanted, in the shape of food: they are found in still water in a small bay, which is closed up still more from the influence of the stream by a round island, constructed superficially on a rocky base, and on which pagodas are built. They resemble a good deal the Gooroa Mas of Assam, but have no large teeth as this has. They are very greedy, of a blueish grey colour, occasionally inclining to red; the feelers are in some forked: they have no scales.
We continued our course when the wind lulled; halted to dine on a sandbank, and proceeded on afterwards, until we reached Kabuct about 8? P.M. On the sandbank where we dined I gathered a Crotalaria, Campanula, Cleome, a Graminea, Polygonum, Cyperace?, and a Dentelloidea. The villages seen were all small.
May 13th.-Left Kabuct before 6. Halted to breakfast on a steep bank, finding it impossible to proceed against the south-west winds, which have now become prevalent.
At this place, which is hilly, I gathered Gmelina villosa, an Anonacea, calyce 6 sepalis, cor. tripetala, pet. patentissimis, margine revolutis, luteis. A Carissa, Grewia, Malpighiacea samaris, 3-alatis, alis dorsalibus abbreviatis, a curious Graminea, a green Orchidea, terrestris, bulbosa, flore ante folia evoluta, a Diospyros, Polygala, Plectranthus, Rungia, Pladera, etc.
Halted at Movo, owing to the wind. This is a very pretty village; of no great size, and of no importance. A delightful tope formed by Mango, Fig, and Garcinia, or Xanthochymus, the dense shade of which is most agreeable; Averrhoa, ?gle Marmelos is cultivated here; Borassus is common, trunks of which are often of very irregular diameter. Low grassy places occur running along the back of the village, with abundance of a Combretum fruticosum; and a nullah at either end of the village presents many trees on its banks, particularly a very large and handsome Myrtacea, Hemarthria compressa. Stravadium racemis longe pendulis.
We were compelled to put into Malá on the right bank, about a mile above Tsengoo, by a severe storm from the north-west. This village consists of about forty houses, many pagodas, and has a good many potteries, and some fine trees. It is at the entrance of the Kioukdweng. Observed Jatropha Curcas, and Vitex negrendo. In the evening we proceeded to Tsenbou.
May 14th.-Left Tsenbou, and breakfasted at Nbat Kiown-wa. Just above this are several villages, two of which number nearly seventy houses each. This is the most populous part I have seen. To the east of this are the Ruby mines in the Shan hills; and to the south-east low hills from which the marble is procured, from which they make the idols. The river features continue the same; namely, low hills close to the right bank, and more distant as well as higher ones on the left. On the Shan hills to the east, teak forests occur; on those to the west, tea also grows. In Polong tea districts also occur; but the tea is very coarse, and said not to be drinkable. Hemarthria, and Hoya viridiflora were found.
Here I found Solanum, Tribulus, a Mimosa, lime trees, Carissa, Mimusops, Stemodia ruderalis now appear. The most interesting is a small diffuse Caryoplylleous-looking plant, with white Campanulate flowers; it is probably a Frankeniacea. On the pagodas an Aristella grows. Certain features prevail in the vegetation similar to those of the Coromandel coast. Fig trees often surrounded at base with brick-work; this never lasts long, the roots tearing up the masonry in every direction.
The exit from this 3rd Kioukdweng is very pretty. Tsengru with its numerous white pagodas; the noble river expanded into a broad bay; the Eastern hills are very beautiful, and the Marble hills which form a background to Tsenbou are no less so. The banks towards the exit from the defile are sloping, often covered with grass. The Palmyra trees and Fig trees have a very pleasing effect. At Kiougyoung there is a large brick fort, built by Alompras. The village contains about 150 houses: no large village is passed between this and Kubuct.
Halted above Sheemnaga to look at Gaudama's foot, a piece of workmanship contained in a pagoda; it is a very large foot, with a central circular impression. This is about a mile below Endawka. Sheemnaga never contained more than 400 houses, I counted upwards of 180, and although extensive traces of fire, and of new houses existed, I should reckon it to have contained only about 300. At the Pagoda I gathered a curious Rutaceous-looking decandrous thorny tree, with foliis bijugis.
Reached Mengoon about 7 P.M. Landed at the commencement of the sandstone hills, which in some places assume the form of cliffs: texture very loose. They are full of holes, and abound with blue rock Pigeons. Gathered a Murraya. Trichodesma indicus and Composit?, Asclepiadea, Calotropis gigantea, and a curious Arenariod-looking plant.
May 15th.-Mengoon boasts of a huge unfinished Pagoda, consisting as it now stands of an immense square brick mass, surrounded by four fine broad raised terraces; it would have been, had it been finished, upwards of 700 feet high. The dome was to have been with angular sides. Height 170 feet; the basement, as may be supposed, is immense. The plan or model of it was first built in a small adjoining grove to the south, by the grandfather of the present king. The whole kingdom must have been occupied in its erection. The entrance to it is guarded by two huge Griffins. Several large bells lie close to it. The country around is hilly; the hills low, raviny, and clothed with stunted vegetation. Beautiful topes exist along the river bank, between this and the cliffs before alluded to; consisting chiefly of fine mango trees, noble Fici likewise occur. About Mengoon, Jatropha Curcas is common. Gymnemea, Calatropis gigantea, and Argemone abound. We found a Pergularia, Lippia, Zyzyphus, and one or two small Euphorbiace?. The soil is dry, sandy, and barren.
We reached Ava about 1 o'clock.
May 21st.-Went to Tsegai on an excursion: the hills in this vicinity are low, none exceeding 300 or 400 feet, dry and barren, chiefly composed of grey carbonate of lime, and in some places Kancha occurs. Pagodas are very numerous, but none are very large, or bearing the stamp of great age. A fine view of country is however afforded: large plains are seen to the east of the city, and between the hills and the river two large jheels are visible from the hills.
The vegetation almost entirely consists of low stunted, very ramous shrubs, and these are generally thorny. Not a tree visible except Bombax and Tamarindus, but this last is planted. A large subarboreous Cactus, spinosus, ramis 4 angulis, is common. Noticed four species of Capparis, and the following plants, Barleria, Prionitis, Tamarindus, ?gle, Zizyphus, Cocos; Borassus, Bixa, Cordia, Punica, Ricinus, Melia Azederak; Citrus Cassia, near houses and on the hills; Euphorbia 2, Ximenia, Cleome, Boerhaavia, Adhatode, Cassia sennoidea, Sid?, Andropogon, a lax Linaria common on old pagodas; Calanchoe, Sedum, Pommereulla, Vinca rosea, Tectona Hamiltoniana, but not of such size as at Malé. Bambusa stunted and rare, Blepharacanthus, Polygala, Labiat? 2, ?ru?, sp. Fici one or two, an Alstonia, Celosia mollugo, Solani sp. Stemodia, Combretum, Heliotropium indicum, and the Euphorbiacea of Mengwong. It will at once be seen that the vegetation has some similarity with that of the Carnatic, for in addition I found Asplenium radiatum, and Limonea Monophylla, a Carissa, Ximenia, Flacourtia, etc. etc.
Ava is a fine town, surrounded with an excellent brick wall: the streets are wide, and kept clean; the houses are regular, and as trees are interspersed, a pleasing effect is produced. The appearance is much improved by a lattice before each house. The houses also are of a superior description, a few only are of brick. The fort is surrounded by an additional wall, and a broad but shallow ditch. The palace is a handsome, irregular, gilt edifice; but its precincts are not kept so clean as they might be. The Shwottoo is a handsome hall. The town altogether conveys an idea of importance. The river is about 800 yards broad opposite the Residency; but above, it is encroached on by a sandbank. Boats are numerous, and opposite Tsegain there is a busy ferry, especially now the king is at Tsegain. This is a much preferable place, and rendered much more pleasing by its superb Tamarind trees, with their most elegant foliage and sculptured trunks. The plants cultivated about Ava are Palmyra, Cocoa (rare). Tamarinds abound; Carica Papaya, Punica Granatum; Mangoes, which are of good description; Cordia, Plantains, ?gle Marmelos.
The country is flat, and destitute of trees to the south and southwest. The whole of this is cultivated during the rains, chiefly for Gram, Tobacco, Capsicum, and a Melilotus. At present the plains are barren, the low places being almost exclusively occupied by a Combretum; the rest give a new Polygonum, Lippia, 2 or 3 Composit?, and a curious dwarf grass. On the walls Linaria is common. Noticed near one of the gates, Cryptostegia grandiflora; the waste places and banks are occupied by Argemone, Mollugine? three, Xanthium, Dentella, and low annual Composit?.
May 26th.-Visited Tsegain in the evening, and returned to Ava on the following morning.
May 27th.-Noticed Ph?nix sylvestris. The Euphorbia is common; it is not a Cactus, but a species of this genus, ramis complanatis, is found though not common; as well as an Agave or Aloe, but this is a doubtful native. Poinciana pulcherrima, both red and yellow, Rhus? sp. arbuscula, Vallaris solanacea. A small Lycopodium, Gmelina asiatica? The additional Madras plants are, Cissus quadrangularis. There is likewise another fleshy species fol. 3 phyllis, Sarcostemma viminale, Indigofera, Kalanch? laciniata is common; so is the white Cyperacea on barren spots! I met with Sarcostemma ciliatum; Wall.? petalis extus viridescent, intus ciliisque purpuro sanguinies, but it is rare. Cardiospermum pubescens is certainly distinct, the flowers are twice as large as those of C. Halicacabum, fructibus inflatis vix alatis, ovalibus, dehiscentia septicida, septis axi adnatis, persistentibus. Semin. solitarii centro loculi affixis, pisiparvi magnitudine, atris.
NOTE.-Where any discrepancy occurs with regard to the native names in the preceding Journal, it is requested that such may be corrected from the Report to Govt. Chapter VII. p.115.