Chapter 10 COOKING CAULIFLOWER.

"Of all the flowers in the garden, I like the Cauliflower best."

Dr. Samuel Johnson.

Dr. Johnson appreciated good living, and therefore it is not surprising that he should have left on record this tribute to the most delicate and finely flavored of all the cabbage family.

Cauliflower is so rarely seen in market in the United States, except in large cities, that comparatively few of our people are accustomed to using it. On this account a variety of receipts for cooking cauliflower are here given, in order to make the methods of using this excellent vegetable more widely known. Americans, especially, need to become familiar with its use; for to the English, French, and Germans, who have known it in the Old World, it needs no introduction.

Cauliflower lends itself readily to both plain and fancy methods of cooking. It is easy of digestion, and is an especial favorite with those who, from any reason, are unable to readily digest cabbage. Besides, it is more nutritious than the cabbage, and it is not exceeded in this particular by any other garden vegetable.

The following tables show the comparative composition of fresh cabbage and cauliflower, and the composition of the ash of the latter. It will be noticed that the percentage of ash and indigestible fibre is low in the cauliflower, and the amount of nitrogenous and starchy matter high.

ANALYSIS OF CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER.

(K?nig's Nohrungsmittel, pp. 715, 717).

Cabbage. Cauliflower.

Water 89.97 90.87

Nitrogenous bodies 1.89 2.48

Fat 0.20 0.34

Sugar 2.29 1.21

Nitrogen free extract 2.58 3.34

(starch, dextrine, etc.)

Fiber 1.84 0.91

Ash 1.23 0.83

ANALYSIS OF CAULIFLOWER ASH.

(Whitner's Gardening in Florida).

Potassa 34.39

Soda 14.79

Lime 2.96

Magnesia 2.38

Sulphuric Acid 11.16

Silicic Acid 1.92

Phosphoric Acid 25.87

Phosphate of Iron 3.67

Chloride of Sodium 2.78

Cauliflower is not wholly free from the odor which renders the cooking of cabbage so unpleasant, but in this respect it is much less objectionable than cabbage. As with cabbage, this odor is in some cases more marked than in others, depending on the character of the soil, and the quantity and nature of the manure used. A small piece of red pepper added to the water in which cauliflower or cabbage is boiled prevents to a large extent this unpleasant odor and improves their flavor. To obviate the "strong" flavor which these vegetables acquire when large quantities of stable manure are used the heads should be parboiled in the morning of the day on which they are wanted. They are then put on a hair sieve and placed in the larder. Twenty minutes before they are wanted for the table they are to be reboiled steadily until the strong taste is gone.

When cauliflowers are preserved in a shed or cellar they often become more or less wilted and strong in flavor, and can then be rendered palatable only by cutting them off from the stalks on the previous day and throwing them into cold, salted water, frequently changing it until they are wanted; in this way the heads become plumped up, and the strong disagreeable smell and taste which they have acquired is in some degree removed; but even under the most careful treatment they lose their fine, white cauliflower color.

To remove any caterpillars or other insects which may have found lodgment in the cauliflower head it should be examined as carefully as possible, opening it a little if necessary. It should then be placed top down in cold salt water for an hour; or, better still, in cold water and vinegar. This is believed to be particularly effective in dislodging any insect life that may be present. If the heads seem badly infested, however, which they seldom are, the only safe way is to break them up before cooking.

In cooking the heads whole, which is a favorite method, care is needed not to boil too long, so as to cause the head to come to pieces. To prevent any danger of breaking the head in cooking, it should be wrapped in cheese cloth or other similar material, in which it is to be handled.

Cauliflower is in season in this country from June until December, but is most abundant during the month of October. Those found in market during the hottest summer months are apt to be dark in color, somewhat strong in flavor, and filled with small leaves. Broccoli is cooked in nearly all cases precisely as cauliflower.

Porcelain lined or similarly guarded pots should be used in which to cook these vegetables, as iron is liable to impart to them a dark color.

The use of earthenware vessels in which to cook vegetables of the cabbage tribe is recommended as follows by a writer in the American Garden:

"To have any of the Brassic? in proper flavor we must go to the German housewives and learn of them to cook cabbage, cauliflower, etc., in earthenware instead of metal. The German potters make stout boilers, like huge bean-pots, that hold six or eight cabbages, for restaurant cooking, and they are quite a different vegetable treated in this way. Try the experiment; put a cabbage in a stone jar with plenty of water, cover tight and boil till tender. I think it does not take as long to cook in this way as in ordinary kettles, the steady mild heat softening the tissues more steadily than the open boiling. And there is little or no smell to cabbage or onions cooked in a close stone pot in the oven. A cabbage baked in its own steam in such a pot and served with hot vinegar and butter is a high-flavored dish."

A writer in the Rural New Yorker sums up the prime requirements in cooking cauliflower as follows:

"Four rules never to be deviated from may be laid down: first, that the cauliflower is to be soaked in salt and water for at least a half hour before cooking, in order to drive out any insects or worms that may be lurking among the flowerets; second, (if to be boiled) when ready for cooking the vegetable is to be plunged into salted, thoroughly boiling water; third, it is not to be cooked a moment after it becomes tender; fourth, to be served as soon as done. Neglect of any of these points is sure to result in failure, while a careful following of them will give a wholesome, delicate dish, and one that will be eaten with gusto and remembered with pleasure."

A very simple method of serving cauliflower is with milk and butter, after the manner of cabbage, but a more elaborate white sauce generally accompanies it. This is the familiar drawn butter sauce, to which may be added a little vinegar or lemon juice, to give piquancy of flavor. Sometimes this sauce is varied by adding milk or cream to the flour and butter, when it is called "cream sauce."

The receipts given below are chiefly from the following four recent works on cookery:

"Good Living," by Sara Van Buren Brugière; G. P. Putnam's Sons, New York and London, 1890.

"The Buckeye Cook-Book"; Buckeye Publishing Company, Minneapolis, 1887.

"Our Home Cyclopedia," by Edgar S. Darling; Mercantile Publishing Company, Detroit, 1889.

"Mrs. A. B. Marshall's Cookery Book"; Marshall's School of Cookery, London, 1888.

1. Boiled (Gardener's Text Book).-The head should be cut with most of the surrounding leaves attached, which are to be trimmed off when the time comes for cooking. Let it lie half an hour in salt and water, and then boil it in fresh water for fifteen or twenty minutes, until a fork will easily enter the stem. Milk and water are better than water alone [a little sweet milk tends to keep the heads white]. Serve with sauce, gravy or melted butter.

2. Boiled (American Agriculturist).-Boil in water, slightly salted-never with meat. When tender, which will usually be with twenty minutes cooking, take up and drain and cover with drawn butter (white sauce, made with butter, flour and water) and serve hot. They are usually eaten without other addition, but some dress with pepper and vinegar-the same as they do cabbage.

3. Boiled (Good Living).-Trim off the outside leaves, leaving one row around the flower. Cut an X in the stalk. Have a large pot of boiling water on the fire. Add enough milk to whiten the water; also one level teaspoonful of salt. The cauliflower should be left in vinegar and water for twenty to thirty minutes before boiling. This system is supposed to draw out any insects that may lurk within. Drain it thoroughly; tie it loosely in a piece of cheese-cloth large enough to cover it entirely. Put it into the boiling water, which must cover it well. Let it boil until quite tender, but be careful that it does not go to pieces. As cauliflowers vary very much in size, only a general idea of the time required can be given. One of ordinary size will take about forty minutes, perhaps more. When cooked lift it out by the cheese-cloth, drain very thoroughly, and set in a round dish. Make a cream sauce (No. 42), pour it over the cauliflower, cover, and let it stand for a few minutes for the sauce to penetrate. Then serve. Or, if a handsome specimen successfully boiled, serve it in a round dish with a white sauce (No. 41) served separately in a sauce-boat. Add a squeeze of lemon juice to the sauce before serving. Small cauliflowers will not require more than thirty minutes to boil.

4. Boiled (Buckeye Cook Book).-To each two quarts of water allow a heaping teaspoon of salt; choose close and white cauliflower; trim off decayed outside leaves, and cut stock off flat at bottom. Open flower a little in places to remove insects, which are generally found around the stalk, and let cauliflowers lie with head downward in salt and water for two hours previous to dressing them, which will effectually draw out all vermin. Then put in boiling water, adding salt in above proportion, and boil briskly for fifteen or twenty minutes over a good fire, keeping saucepan uncovered. Water should be well skimmed, and when cauliflowers are tender, take up, drain, and if large enough, place upright in a dish; serve with plain melted butter, a little of which may be poured over the flowers; or a white sauce may be used, made as follows: Put butter size of an egg into saucepan, and when it bubbles stir in a scant half teacup of flour; stir well with an egg-whisk until cooked; then add two teacups of thin cream, some pepper and salt. Stir it over the fire until perfectly smooth. Pour the sauce over the cauliflower and serve. Many let the cauliflower simmer in the same sauce a few moments before serving.

Cauliflower is delicious served as a garnish around spring chicken, or with fried sweet-breads, when the white sauce should be poured over both. In this case it should be made by adding the cream, flour and seasoning to the little grease (half a teaspoon) that is left after frying the chickens or sweet-breads.

5. Baked (Buckeye Cook Book).-Prepare as for boiling, and parboil five minutes; cut into pieces and put into a pie dish; add a little milk, season with salt, pepper and butter; cover with dry, grated cheese, and bake.

6. Steamed (Mrs. M. P. A. Crozier).-Lay the nicely prepared cauliflower head in the deep dish from which it is to be served at table, sprinkle salt over it, place it in the steamer, cover closely, and steam till tender. Remove to the table, and pour over it rich, sweet cream, slightly salted and heated.

7. Stewed (Gardener's Chronicle).-Cut up your cauliflower into sprigs of convenient size to serve with a tablespoon, and throw them into cold water an hour before cooking. To stew them, have a stout, iron stewpan, white-enamelled inside-an ordinary tin saucepan or boiler will hardly do. Put a large lump of butter into your stewpan as you set it over a gentle fire; instead of butter you may use the fat taken from the top of cold roast meat gravy-that of beef or veal is preferable to that of mutton. As the grease melts, stir into it an onion chopped very fine, and a little flour and water; continue stirring until the whole is nicely browned; then put in your sprigged cauliflower, adding only just enough water or broth to cook it; season lightly with pepper and salt, and a very light dust of grated nutmeg, if not disapproved; let it stew gently till perfectly tender; when done the gravy should be so reduced as to be no more in quantity than is wanted to serve as sauce with the vegetable; for this reason the salt must be used with great moderation, otherwise, by concentration, the gravy would be converted into brine; transfer the cauliflower from the stewpan to a hot dish, and pour the reduced gravy over it.

Note that by this method nothing is lost. The natural and nutritive juices of the vegetable, the sugar and albumen, are retained instead of being drawn out and diluted by boiling in several pints of water, and consequently wasted and thrown away. Note also that this receipt is founded (like the directions for many other good dishes) on the roux-flour browned in butter-which is one of the grand elements in French cookery.

8. Stewed (Mr. S. J. Soyer[E]).-Cauliflower butter, salt, sugar, two and one-third ounces of flour, half a pint of cream, one-eighth of the soup from the cauliflower.

The cauliflower is cut into pieces, boiled slightly in salted water, taken out of the soup and put on a colander to drain. The butter and flour are baked together and thinned with the cream, and about the quantity of the soup above stated. The cauliflower is put into this sauce and again brought to a boil, whereupon it is served warm.

9. Escalloped (Rural New Yorker).-Place a layer of the parboiled flowerets in a pudding dish, and cover them with cream sauce enough to moisten, with the addition of a little grated cheese, usually Parmesian; this is to be followed by another layer of this vegetable, and the whole covered with bread crumbs dotted with bits of butter.

10. Escalloped (Buckeye Cook Book).-Boil till tender, drain well, and cut in small pieces; put in layers, with fine chopped egg, and this dressing: Half pint milk, thickened over boiling water, with two tablespoons flour and seasoned with two teaspoons salt, one of white pepper and two tablespoons butter; put grated bread over the top; dot it with small bits of butter and place it in the oven to heat thoroughly and brown. Serve in same dish in which it was baked. This is a good way to use common heads.

A nicer way is to boil them, then place them whole in a buttered dish with stems down. Make sauce with a cup of bread crumbs beaten to froth with two tablespoons melted butter and three of cream or milk, one well-beaten egg, and salt and pepper to taste. Pour this over the cauliflower, cover dish tightly, and bake six minutes in a quick oven, browning them nicely. Serve as above.

11. With Stuffing (Home Cyclopedia).-Take a saucepan, the exact size of the dish intended to be used. Cleanse a large, firm, white cauliflower, and cut into sprigs, throw those into boiling salt water for two minutes; then take them out, drain, and pack them tightly with the heads downward, in the saucepan, the bottom of which must have been previously covered with thin slices of bacon; fill up the vacant spaces with a stuffing made of three tablespoonfuls of finely minced veal, the same of beef suet, four tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, a little pepper and salt, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of minced chives and a dozen small mushrooms, chopped fine. Strew these ingredients over the cauliflowers in alternate layers and pour over them three well-beaten eggs. When these are well soaked add sufficient nicely-flavored stock to cover the whole; simmer gently till the cauliflowers are tender, and the sauce very much reduced; then turn the contents of the saucepan upside down on a hot dish, and the cauliflowers will be found standing in a savory mixture.

12. With Sauce (Home Cyclopedia).-Boil a large cauliflower-tied in netting-in hot salted water, from twenty-five to thirty minutes; drain, serve in a deep dish with the flower upwards, and pour over it a cup of drawn butter in which has been stirred the juice of a lemon and a half teaspoonful of French mustard, mixed up well with the sauce.

13. With Curry Sauce (Mrs. Marshall).-Blanch (see note to No. 19) and plain boil the cauliflower for fifteen to twenty minutes till tender, then cut it up into nice long pieces, each sufficient for one person; place the pieces in a sauté pan and pour the curry sauce (as for curry á la simla) over them; let it boil up, and then draw the pan to the side of the stove and let it stay there for ten or twelve minutes; dish the pieces up in the form of cutlets, pour the sauce over them, and garnish round the cauliflower with little bunches of grated cocoanut which have been warmed between two plates over boiling water. This is an excellent dish for luncheon or second course, or it may be served in place of an entrée.

14. With Tomato Sauce (Good Living).-Having boiled a medium-sized cauliflower, very carefully as directed (No. 3) place it on a round dish, after having thoroughly drained it. Have ready a rich tomato sauce (No. 40) pour it around (not over) the cauliflower, and serve as a separate course. This is a very pretty dish.

15. With Tomato Sauce (Good Health).-Boil or steam the cauliflower until tender. In another dish prepare a sauce by heating a pint of strained stewed tomatoes to boiling, thickening with a tablespoonful of flour, and salting to taste. When the cauliflower is tender, dish, and pour over it the hot tomato sauce.

16. With Mushrooms (Buckeye Cook Book).-Put in a frying pan, in hot fat, a few small mushrooms and part of a cauliflower, broken into sprigs. Sprinkle over them some grated cheese, and baste the whole well from time to time with the hot fat.

17. With Brussels Sprouts (Mr. S. J. Soyer).-Cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, dotter of egg, butter, a tablespoonful of cream, half a pint of sauce for vegetables, potato puré-that is, bouillon thickened with mashed potatoes and strained.

Both cauliflower and sprouts are to be well cleaned, boiled separately in salt water and served on the puré, the cauliflower in the centre and the sprouts around it for garnishing. The sauce, to which is added the egg dotters, butter and cream, is poured hot over the cauliflower and sprouts.

18. Au Gratin (Good Living).-Boil the cauliflower as directed. Set it in a round baking dish which can be sent to the table. For a moderate sized cauliflower make one pint of cream sauce (No. 42). Add to the sauce two heaping tablespoons each or grated Parmesian and Gruyère cheese and a dash of cayenne. Mix the sauce and pour it over the cauliflower, letting it penetrate all the crevices. Cover the top with fine grated bread crumbs, dot with butter, and bake twenty minutes. Serve in the same dish.

19. Au Gratin (Mrs. Marshall).-Trim the cauliflower and blanch it[F]; put it to boil in boiling water till it is tender; then take up and drain. Butter the dish on which it is to be served and put on it about two tablespoonfuls of the sauce as below (No. 39); put the cauliflower on the sauce, then cover it over thickly with sauce, and smooth it all over with a palette knife; sprinkle it with browned bread crumbs; stand the dish in an ordinary baking tin containing about a pint of boiling water; place in the oven for about fifteen or twenty minutes, and when a nice golden color take it from the oven and sprinkle over it a very little grated Parmesian cheese. Stand the dish on another with a napkin, and serve very hot as a second course or luncheon dish.

20. Au Gratin (Mr. S. J. Soyer).-Three cauliflower heads, salt, pepper, grated bread, two eggs, one-quarter pound grated Parmesian cheese, one-quarter pound grated Swiss cheese, one pint white sauce.

The cauliflowers are boiled rare, taken out and drained off. White sauce and spices are boiled thick and the egg dotters and cheese mixed with it. The cauliflowers are cut to pieces and put in layers with sauce between, on a dish or silver saucepan, are sprinkled with grated bread and cheese, put fifteen minutes into a hot oven to be browned with a salamander. Serve as an independent dish.

In place of "white sauce" butter and flour may be baked together and thinned with sweet milk.

21. Cauliflower au Naturel (Mr. J. S. Soyer).-The stem of the white, solid cauliflower heads is cut off an inch from the head, and with a penknife is cleaned of the hard outer membrane, taking care to preserve the head as whole as possible; the head is then well rinsed in cold water, to which is added some vinegar to drive out larv? and the like; it is then boiled in salt water until it is tender, when it is taken up to drain off on a sieve or colander. It is to be served high on a napkin, with melted butter, common sauce for vegetables, Dutch sauce, velouté or maitre d'h?tel sauce.

N. B.-For cauliflowers, and vegetables generally, the sauce ought to be rather thick, as it is impossible to have the vegetables run perfectly dry when they are to be served warm.

22. á la Francaise (Home Cyclopedia).-After trimming properly, cut the cauliflower into quarters, and put into a stewpan and boil until tender; drain and arrange it neatly on a dish. Pour over it melted butter.

23. á la Louis XIV (Mr. S. J. Soyer).-Cauliflower, new-made butter, grated nutmeg, bouillon.

The cauliflower is to be repeatedly washed in lukewarm water, boiled with bouillon and a little nutmeg, drained and then shaken with butter over a fire. To be served as soon as the butter is melted.

24. á la Varenne (Mrs. Marshall).-Trim a cauliflower, and place it in salt and water for about one hour; then put it into cold water with a pinch of salt; bring to the boil, and then rinse the cauliflower and put it again into boiling water which is seasoned with salt, to cook till tender. When cooked, cut it in pieces and dish up in a coil; pour parsley sauce over, and garnish it round with braised carrots or a macedoine of vegetables, and place the cut up stalks of cauliflower in the centre. Serve for a luncheon or second course dish.

25. En Mayonnaise (Mr. S. J. Soyer).-Two heads of cauliflower, salt, pepper, sweet oil, estragon, chopped parsley, vinegar, oil-sauce.

The cauliflowers are to be plucked apart and the stemlets cut off at proper lengths. Boil in water, and salt when nearly done. Drain off and let cool, and then marinate for an hour with oil, vinegar, spices, estragon and parsley. Drain on a sieve. To be served high on a dish, and oil sauce gradually to be poured over. If desired, the dish might be garnished with carrots or some other suitable vegetable.

26. Souffle of Cauliflower, á la Baronne (Mrs. Marshall).-Trim a nice cauliflower, put it to blanch (note to No. 19), then rinse it and put it into boiling water with a little salt, and let it cook till tender; take up again, drain, and cut it in neat pieces and place them in a buttered souffle dish with alternate layers of raw sliced tomatoes; season with a very little salt and white pepper, and fill up the dish with a souffle mixture prepared as below, and sprinkle over with a few browned bread crumbs; place a few pieces of butter here and there on the top, and bake in a moderate oven for thirty minutes, dish upon a paper with a napkin round, sprinkle it with a little chopped parsley, and serve for second course or luncheon.

Mixture for Cauliflower Souffle.-Mix two ounces of butter, one and a half ounces of fine flour, one and a half raw yolks of eggs, tiny dust of cayenne, a saltspoonful of salt, with not quite half a pint of cold milk; stir over the fire till it boils, then add three ounces of grated Parmesian cheese and the whites of three eggs that have been whipped stiff, with a pinch of salt, and use.

27. Cauliflower Salad (Good Living).-One pint cold boiled cauliflower, one teaspoon of chervil, chopped as fine as powder, one teaspoon of parsley, chopped as fine as powder, one teaspoon of tarragon or Maille vinegar, French dressing.

Boil the cauliflower as directed (No. 3). Separate the flowerets, mix with the parsley, chives and dressing. Set aside one hour. Serve very cold.

Another (Buckeye Cook Book).-After boiling, let cool and dress with Mayonnaise, or any dressing preferred.

28. Cauliflower Omelette.-Take the white part of a boiled cauliflower after it is cold, chop it very small, and mix with it a sufficient quantity of well beaten egg to make a very thick batter; then fry it in fresh butter, in a small pan, and send to the table hot.

Note:-This omelette makes a fine dressing to pour hot over fried chicken when ready to send to the table.

29. Cauliflower Soup (Mr. S. J. Soyer). Two and a half quarts bouillon, one and a half pint milk, two or three cauliflowers, two and a half ounces butter, one and a half ounce flour, sugar, salt.

The cauliflowers are cleaned, and boiled almost ready, taken out and put on a sieve, and the soup preserved. The butter and flour are baked together; and with the milk, bouillon, sugar and salt added to the decoction from the cauliflowers. These are then cut into proper pieces and put into the soup, which is subjected to a quick boil and then served with bread dumplings: crumbs of white bread moistened with milk, melted butter, dotter of eggs, and the whites beaten to a stiff froth-the mass rolled into balls, and boiled until they float.

30. Cauliflower Cream Soup (Rural New Yorker).-Boil the cauliflower in salt water until nearly done. For a small head, bring another quart of water (or milk and water) to boil, adding half an onion, or a bit of spice if desired, and thicken it as for drawn butter sauce, with an ounce of butter and some flour. Boil the cauliflower in the liquid until soft, then put the whole through a colander; return to the fire, and add a cup of cream; simmer for five minutes, and serve at once, with squares of fried bread.

31. Broccoli (American Garden).-Broccoli is a pleasant change from cabbage and cauliflower, either as a salad or a side dish. To dress it, strip off the little branches, till the top one is left, then with a sharp knife peel off all the hard skin on the stalks and branchlets and throw them into water. When the water in the stewpan boils, put in the broccoli and cook till tender, salting in the last five minutes. Serve with toast dipped in the broccoli water, laying the stalks over it, and eat with vinegar and melted butter. Or, let it get cold, cut in small bits, and serve as salad with oil and vinegar, with lemon juice, garnished with nasturtium buds. Or, serve a large round of toast, the size of a dinner plate, moistened with broccoli water, salted and buttered, with nicely poached eggs laid on it, and sprigs of hot broccoli set thickly between, dusting with fine salt. Cauliflower and solid white cabbage may be served the same way.

32. Egg Broccoli (Home Cyclopedia).-Take half a dozen heads of broccoli, cut off the small shoots or blossoms and lay them aside for frying; trim the stalks short and pare off the rough rind up to the head, wash them well and lay them in salt water for an hour, then put them into plenty of boiling water (salted) and let them boil fast till quite tender. Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan, and stir it over a slow fire till it is melted; then add gradually six or eight well-beaten eggs and stir the mixture until it is thick and smooth. Lay the broccoli in the center of a large dish, pour the egg around it, and, having fried the broccoli blossoms, arrange them in a circle near the edge of the dish.

33. Pickled (Mrs. M. P. A. Crozier).-Break at the natural divisions, steam till tender, and place in a jar of cold vinegar with mustard and red peppers.

34. Pickled (Gardener's Text Book).-Place the heads in a keg, and sprinkle them liberally with salt. Let them remain thus for about a week, when you may turn over them scalding hot vinegar, prepared with one ounce of mace, one ounce of peppercorns, and one ounce of cloves to every gallon. Draw off the vinegar, and return it scalding hot several times until the heads become tender.

35. Pickled (Rural New Yorker).-Break the heads into small sprays, throw them into a kettle of scalding brine; let them come to a boil, and drain carefully, so as not to break them; pack in stone or glass jars, and cover with scalding vinegar seasoned as follows: To one gallon of vinegar allow one cup of white sugar, half an ounce of mace, one ounce of peppercorns, two or three red pepper pods broken into bits, and a tablespoonful each of coriander seed, celery seed, and white mustard. Pour this hot over the cauliflowers and seal at once. Glass jars are the most convenient, as they may be examined frequently to see if their contents are keeping well. If not, repeat the scalding. In all pickles the vinegar should be two inches or more above the vegetables, as it is sure to shrink, and if the vegetables are not thoroughly immersed in vinegar they will not keep.

36. Pickled (Home Cyclopedia).-Choose such as are firm, yet of their full size; cut away all the leaves and pare the stalks; pull away the flowers in bunches, steep in brine two days, then drain them, wipe them dry, and put them in hot pickle, or merely infuse for three days three ounces of curry powder in every quart of vinegar.

Another. Slice, salt for two or three days, drain, spread upon a dry cloth before the fire twenty-four hours; put in a jar and cover with spiced vinegar.

37. Mixed Pickles (Home Cyclopedia).-Three hundred small cucumbers, four green peppers, sliced fine, two large or three small heads of cauliflower, three heads of white cabbage sliced fine, nine large onions sliced, one large horseradish, one quart green beans cut one inch long, one quart green tomatoes sliced; put this mixture in a pretty strong brine twenty-four hours; drain three hours; then sprinkle in one-fourth pound black and one-fourth pound white mustard seed; also one tablespoonful black ground pepper; let it come to a boil in just vinegar enough to cover it, adding a little alumn; drain again, and when cold put in one-half pint ground mustard; cover the whole with good cider vinegar; add turmeric enough to color if you like.

ACCESSORY RECEIPTS.

38. Cauliflower Sauce (Good Living).-Use either white or cream sauce, adding to it the flowerets of cauliflower previously boiled tender. Serve with boiled fowl, veal sauté, etc.

39. Cauliflower Sauce (To accompany No. 19).-One pint of thick Bechamel sauce, a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesian cheese, two tablespoonfuls of grated Gruyère cheese, two tablespoonfuls of cream, a little dust of cayenne pepper and a pinch of salt; mix well together, and use.

40. Tomato Sauce (To accompany No. 14).-

6 large tomatoes, or 1 can,

Butter, size of an egg,

Bunch of parsley or thyme,

1 tablespoonful of butter,

2 chopped onions,

Salt and pepper,

Pinch of sugar,

2 tablespoonfuls of flour.

Peel the tomatoes, and put into a sauce pan with butter, thyme, onions and parsley (and 1 clove of garlic chopped and fried in butter). Set over boiling water and stew very gently for three hours. Then press fruit and juice all through a sieve, rejecting only the seeds and herbs. Meanwhile prepare a roux, allowing 1 quart of sauce, 1 tablespoonful of butter, and 2 of flour, stirred together over the fire until light golden brown-no darker, or the color of the sauce will be injured. When the sauce is strained, remove the roux from the fire; stir in the sauce. Return it to the fire. Stir and boil 3 to 5 minutes, until rich and thick. Should the sauce be already quite thick with the pulp of the tomatoes, use less thickening. If served with fricandeau, veal sauté, or filet of beef, add the juices of the meat to the sauce.

41. White Sauce (To accompany No. 3, etc.)-

3 ounces of butter,

2 gills of water,

1 ounce of flour,

Pepper and salt.

Put 2 ounces of the butter in a stew pan; when it melts, add the flour. Stir for 1 minute or more, but do not brown. Then add by degrees the boiling water, stirring until smooth; pass it through a sieve; then add the rest of the butter, cut in pieces. When the butter is melted, serve immediately. This makes about one pint of sauce. You may add as a great improvement a little lemon juice or a few drops of vinegar.

N. B.-If the sauce is to have other ingredients added it is best to have it very thick to begin with.

42. Cream Sauce (To accompany Nos. 3 and 18).

1 tablespoon of flour,

1 very large tablespoon of butter,

2 gills of new milk,

? teaspoon of salt,

Pepper to taste.

Put ? of the butter in a sauce pan over the fire. As soon as it melts, add the flour; stir till blended. Be careful not to let it brown. Add the boiling milk, by degrees, to the flour and butter, stirring without ceasing. Boil 3 minutes. Remove from the fire; add salt, white pepper, and the rest of the butter; stir until the butter melts, and serve immediately. If it has to be kept, set it over a kettle of boiling water; leave the spoon in it; and every now and again stir it down or the top will form a scum. Do not let it boil after the last butter is added. Cream may be used instead of new milk.

FOOTNOTES:

[E] Chief Cook at the Court of Denmark.

[F] Blanching anything is placing it on the fire in cold water until it boils, and after straining it off plunging it into cold water for the purpose of rendering it white.

* * *

RECAPITULATION.

The following recapitulation of the more important points connected with cauliflower culture will serve to fix them in mind:

1. The best localities for cauliflower growing are where the climate is cool and moist, as near some large body of water.

2. The cauliflower will stand nearly as much dry weather as ordinary crops while growing, providing it has a cool, moist time in which to head.

3. The best soil is a sandy loam, though any cool, moist, strong, fertile soil will answer.

4. While a cool, moist soil is desirable, thorough drainage is quite as essential as with any other crop.

5. An abundance of strong barn-yard or other manure is necessary, as the cauliflower is a gross feeder.

6. Deep and frequent tillage, that there may be no check in growth until the plants are nearly ready to head.

7. Tie or pin the leaves over the heads as soon as they appear, to keep them blanched and protect them from frost.

8. If any plants have failed to head on the approach of winter, remove them to a shed or cellar, and they will head there.

9. Guard against the flea beetle, cut worm, cabbage worm and cabbage maggot in the same manner as with cabbage.

10. With suitable varieties and proper care the cauliflower can generally be successfully grown wherever the cabbage thrives particularly well.

* * *

GLOSSARY.

Blind.-To "go blind" is to lose the centre or growing point, and fail to head. It is generally due to climatic or insect injury. It is said to be frequently caused in the cauliflower by an insect resembling the turnip fly. Soot and lime are remedies.

Blues.-A dark-bluish appearance, accompanying arrested development, generally due to unfavorable weather, unsuitable soil or insects at the root. Cabbage and cauliflower plants which are set too early in the spring, especially if they are not well hardened off and are placed in a cold soil, are apt to assume this appearance. If cauliflowers remain long in this condition, they are liable either to fail to head, or to form small heads prematurely.

Bolt.-A familiar term in England, applied to wheat when it heads out small and prematurely. Sometimes applied to cauliflowers when they head before they attain a proper age and size. See Button.

Break.-To become loose or "frothy" preparatory to running up to seed. Said of a head of cauliflower; also of other plants as they begin to throw up their seed stalks.

Button.-To form small heads prematurely, as often occurs when plants are left too long in the seed-bed.

Curd.-The material composing the head of a cauliflower. Sometimes the heads individually are called "curds."

Drawn.-Having an abnormally long stem, owing to crowding, or too great heat, or too little light in the seed-bed.

Flower or Blossom.-Terms often applied to the head in the cauliflower, either from its resemblance to a flower, or from a mistaken idea that it really is a flower.

Floweret.-A term sometimes applied to one of the sprays or sub-divisions of a cauliflower head.

Frothy, see Warty.

Glaucous.-Pale bluish-green; sea-green.

Head.-The edible part of a cauliflower, consisting of a mass of thickened flower-stems at an early stage of growth, before they have separated and elongated preparatory to forming flowers and seeds. Various other terms have been applied to it, such as "flower" or "blossom," "bouquet," "heart," and, by the French, "pomme" (apple), but sometimes also "tête" (head).

Heart, see Head.

Leafy.-Having the head interspersed with rather small leaves. A tendency to this condition is found in some inferior varieties, and in many good varieties when they head in hot weather.

Mossy.-Having numerous minute leaves distributed over the head, giving it a "mossy" appearance. It is a condition of the same nature as the "leafy" state above mentioned, and produced by the same causes.

Rogue.-An undesirable sport. A cauliflower which, unlike the others in the field, runs immediately to seed without forming a head, would be called a "rogue."

Running.-Throwing up the flower-stalks preparatory to the production of seed. See Break.

Turning In.-Commencing to head; a term originally applied to cabbages, but now extended to other plants which form heads of any kind.

Warty or Frothy.-A condition of the head in which the surface is covered with small prominences preparatory to running up to seed.

Weather-Proud.-An English term which signifies that plants are larger or more thrifty than proper for the time of year. Applied, for example, to wintered-over cauliflower plants during a warm, early spring.

* * *

REFERENCES.

In the following works and articles certain points in connection with the cauliflower and its cultivation are more fully treated than in the present work.

Bon Jardinier, (1859, p. 449).-A good article on the origin and varieties of the cauliflower, and its cultivation in France.

Brill, Francis.-"Cauliflowers and How to Grow Them," (16 pp., price twenty cents. Published by the Author, Riverhead, N. Y., 1886). A well written account of cauliflower growing on Long Island and the methods used.

Burpee, W. A.-"How to Grow Cabbages and Cauliflowers," (W. A. Burpee & Co., Philadelphia, 1890). A pamphlet of eighty-five pages, price thirty cents, consisting of prize essays on the Cabbage and Cauliflower, by Mr. G. H. Howard, of Long Island, N. Y., and Mr. J. Pedersen, of Denmark; together with directions for cooking these vegetables by Mr. S. J. Soyer, chief cook at the Court of Denmark; and a chapter on varieties by W. A. Burpee.

De Candolle, Augustin Pyramus.-"Memoir on the Different Species, Races and Varieties of the Genus Brassica, and of the Genera Allied with it which are Cultivated in Europe" (read in 1821).-Transactions of the Horticultural Society of London, Vol. V, p. 1.

Don, Geo.-"General History of Dichlamydeous Plants," (4 volumes, London, 1831). Volume I, pp. 233-241, contains a good account of the culture and varieties of broccoli and cauliflower. Fifteen varieties of broccoli and three of cauliflower are described.

Journal of Horticulture and Cottage Gardener, (1878, p. 61).-A good article on the cultivation of cauliflower in England.

Loudon, J. C.-"Encyclop?dia of Gardening" (5th edition, London, 1827). This standard work contains a very full account of the cauliflower and its allies, including quotations from various English authorities.

Magazine of Horticulture, (1839, p. 53).-A good article on the cultivation of the cauliflower in England.

Maher, John.-"Hints relative to the Culture of the Early Purple Broccoli" (read in 1808).-Transactions of the Horticultural Society of London, Vol. I, pp. 116-120. An account of the culture and varieties of broccoli, with remarks on its improvement, and on the liability of broccoli and cauliflower to mix with cabbage.

McIntosh, Charles.-"Book of the Garden" (2 volumes, London, 1853). The second volume contains the best account of cauliflower cultivation in England written up to that time.

Rogers, John.-"The Vegetable Cultivator" (London, 1843). Contains a good account of the cauliflower and the methods of growing it in England.

Sturtevant, Dr. E. L.-In his "History of Garden Vegetables," in the American Naturalist, this author gives the history of cauliflower and broccoli, including the earliest recorded evidences of their cultivation, and the names applied to these vegetables in different countries. The broccoli is treated in the volume for 1887, p. 438, and the cauliflower in the same volume, p. 701.

Sutton & Sons, Reading, England.-These seedsmen publish a work on Gardening, price five shillings, in which the subject of cauliflower culture in England is fully treated.

Vilmorin-Andrieux, et cie.-"Plantes Potagers" (Paris, 1883). This work by Vilmorin, Andrieux & Co., the Paris seedsmen, was translated into English, and published under the title of "The Vegetable Garden," by Murray, of London, in 1885. It contains full descriptions of varieties of cauliflower, based on trials at the experiment grounds of this firm at Paris, and also includes information on the cultivation of this vegetable in France.

* * *

INDEX.

Analysis, 196

Blackleg, 105

Blanching, 39

Broccoli, 10, 11, 13, 189

Buttoning, 57

Cabbage, history, 9

Cabbage, wild, 9

Cabbage maggot, 96

Cabbage worm, 98

Cauliflower in United States, 19, 22, 61

Mexico, 85

Europe, 19

India, 86

Austria, 21

England, 21

France, 20

Germany, 21

Holland, 21

Italy 21

Long Island, 22, 62

Puget Sound, 91, 115

Alabama, 80

California, 90

Colorado, 77

Florida, 82

Georgia, 79

Illinois, 23, 75

Iowa, 77

Louisiana, 83

Massachusetts, 71

Michigan, 72, 185

Minnesota, 74

Missouri, 76

New Jersey, 69

North Carolina, 78

Ohio, 75

Oregon, 90

South Dakota, 78

Texas, 84

Washington, 91, 115

Wisconsin, 74

Cauliflower industry, 19

Climate, 63, 72, 73, 78, 89, 90, 112, 116

Cooking, 195

Cross-fertilization, 113, 114, 121

Cultivation, 37

Cut worms, 94

Damping off, 104

Duty, see Tariff

Earliness, order of, 177

Early cauliflower, 53

Failures, 19, 53, 69, 71

Fertilizers, 26, 65, 68, 79, 85, 87, 116

Flea beetle, 27, 29, 93

Frost, effect of, 41

Fungi, 101

Glossary, 223

Harvesting, 42

History, 9

Importation of cauliflower, 23

Insects, 30, 93, 87

Irrigation, 20, 38, 77

Keeping, 48

Large heads, 77, 83, 86, 169, 171

Louse, 29, 100

Marketing, 47, 55, 79, 81

Mildew, 105

Origin, 9

Packages, 45

Packing, 45

Pickles, 23, 216

Preparing the ground, 35, 68, 87, 116

Price, 47, 55, 65, 69, 79

Puget Sound seed, 109, 115, 185

Recapitulation, 221

References, 227

Rot, 101

Scale of maturity, 177

Seed, 107 in Cyprus, 109

in Denmark, 110

in England, 108, 110

in France, 108

in Germany, 108

in Holland, 108

in Scotland, 108

in India, 89

in Long Island, 110

in Massachusetts, 110

in Mexico, 86

in Puget Sound, 109, 115, 185

Seed, amount needed, 88, 115

Seed, duration of vitality, 115

Seed, sowing, 27, 33, 82, 87

Selling, see Marketing

Soil, 25, 72, 82, 86, 116

Soil, preparation of, 35, 68, 87, 116

Sowing seed, 27, 33, 82, 87

Tariff on cauliflower, 23

Terms, 223

Time to cut, 42

Time to sow, 33

Transplanting, 35, 117

Trimming, 44

Varieties, 14, 125, 187

Variety tests, 178

* * *

HOW TO EXTEND THE MARKET

For Cauliflower.

The market demand for any product is always a matter of growth. Peter Henderson said in 1867 that an acre of cauliflower was as much as could be profitably sold from one garden in the New York market. Now, five to fifteen acres in a single field is not an uncommon sight on Long Island. It is the business of the grower not only to supply the demand, but to create it. One way to increase the demand for cauliflower is to teach consumers the best methods of using it. We believe that if cauliflower growers could distribute freely to their customers the information found in the chapter on cooking in this work on Cauliflower it would result in largely increased sales. Accordingly we have reprinted this chapter as a separate pamphlet and offer it to market gardeners and others at the following very low rates: Single copies, ten cents, $5 per hundred. Sample copy free upon request to any purchaser of this book. Please give these a trial.

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Dear Sir,-The Early Perfection ("Novelty No. 9") and American grown Snowball Cauliflower seed sent here for trial by you, as compared with nine other varieties, the following is the report. No. 8 is American Snowball, and No. 10 is Novelty No. 9 or Early Perfection:

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

96 93 65 58 43 79 63 96 86 99 83 Germination.

90 68 66 48 17 58 33 82 76 90 60 Vegetation.

80 80 70 80 90 40 60 90 90 100 80 Vigor and heading

The Early Perfection (No. 9) was one of the first to form heads, requiring fifty-three days from time of planting out. It gave fully as good and large heads as any of the other early kinds. I am particularly pleased with the high vegetative powers of your seeds, and the vigor of the plants.

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H. A. March, Fidalgo, Wash.:

Dear Sir,-Your letter asking for a report of your Cabbage and Cauliflower Seed, is at hand. The Puget Sound strain of Early Wakefield Cabbage seed was so noticeably large that I weighed several samples of it and found that it averaged two and one-half times as large as the same variety from other seedsmen. In the seed-box we obtained 97 plants from 100 seeds.

The plants were much stronger than those of any other variety. Twenty-five plants were put out, and every one formed a perfect head. They were very even in size and shape, averaging slightly larger than our other strains, with three days difference in their favor in earliness.

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* * *

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Transcriber's Note

Some inconsistent spelling in the original document has been preserved.

Typographical errors corrected in the text:

Page 29 exeprienced changed to experienced

Page 31 two changed to too

Page 32 y added to rain

Page 43 looses changed to loses

Page 44 towards changed to toward

Page 72 varities changed to varieties

Page 75 varities changed to varieties

Page 85 plans changed to plants

Page 105 Hamptnos changed to Hamptons

Page 106 successfuly changed to successfully

Page 108 varities changed to varieties

Page 109 varities changed to varieties

Page 110 varities changed to varieties

Page 112 aquired changed to acquired

Page 141 Surpise changed to Surprise

Page 144 experimant changed to experiment

Page 156 Thornburn changed to Thorburn

Page 159 extraneous "a" removed

Page 163 boquet changed to bouquet

Page 174 varities changed to varieties

Page 176 varities changed to varieties

Page 180 varities changed to varieties

Page 182 varities changed to varieties

Page 183 preceeding changed to preceding

Page 186 Varities changed to Varieties

Page 206 downwards changed to downward

Page 211 A changed to á

Page 212 rince changed to rinse

Page 212 mayonaise changed to mayonnaise

Page 224 boquet changed to bouquet

Page 226 Jardenier changed to Jardinier

Page 227 It changed to it

Page 233 noticably changed to noticeably

Page 236 HORTICULTRE changed to HORTICULTURE

Pagd 239 Deleware changed to Delaware

Page 239 Stutrevant changed to Sturtevant