Chapter 2 CHAPTER II

Description of the Exterior

Approaching the Cathedral Church of Durham from the north by the large open space between it and the Castle, known as the Palace Green, we obtain a complete elevation of the whole structure. There is little room to doubt, though the details naturally vary with the date of erection, that the original plan of Carileph's church has been carried out in its entirety, with two exceptions. These are the addition of the eastern transept or nine altar chapel at the east, and the Galilee or Lady Chapel at the west end. The entire length of the building, not including the Galilee chapel, is 431 feet, which is made up as follows:-Nine altar chapel 51 feet, the choir 120 feet, the transept 57 feet, and the nave 203 feet.

The Western Towers are square and solid, and were evidently included in Carileph's own scheme, as the wall arcades on both the interior and exterior are carried round them. The Norman work is continued as far as the nave roof, and it is extremely probable that they were originally terminated at this height, in accordance with the Norman custom, with low pyramidal spires, probably of wood. Exactly at what date they were raised is not on record, but the style of architecture of the upper portion suggests the early part of the thirteenth. century. The added portion, namely that above the clerestory, consists of four stages, and is beautifully varied by moulded arcading, with blind and open arches. The first and third stages have pointed arches, while those of the second and fourth are round. Above this again were tall wooden spires covered with lead. These were removed about the year 1657, and towards the close of the eighteenth century the present pinnacles and open parapets were added. At this time, also, much of the surface of the towers was renewed.

The Central Tower.-The present central tower is noble in proportion, and forms a fitting and harmonious summit to the whole group. It must needs be of a very different character from the old Norman tower, of which no trace now remains; and was most probably of the usual type, low and square, and surmounted by a short pyramidal spire. The existing structure may be attributed to Bishop Booth and Prior Richard Bell, about 1474, when the letter previously quoted was written. Externally the tower is divided into two storeys. The lower portion contains, on each side, a pair of two-light windows, glazed, each divided by a transom, and their heads having an ogee label crocketed and finished with a tall finial also crocketed. Between and on either side of these windows are panelled pilasters and brackets carrying figures. The lower and upper stages are divided by a narrow external gallery running round the tower, and protected by a pierced, embattled parapet. This is known as the Bell Ringers' Gallery, and certainly adds greatly to the effect of the tower as a whole. The upper stage, which is much less lofty, has also two two-light windows on each face, surmounted by crocketed ogee label mouldings and finials. These lights are louvred. The whole is surmounted by a deep open-work parapet. On each angle of the tower are two buttresses, which are decorated with panelling and canopied and crocketed niches containing figures. The interior of the tower or lantern is remarkable for the gallery which runs round it, which is reached from the roofs of the nave and choir transepts by doors. It rests on corbels, each alternate one being carved with grotesque heads, and is protected by a parapet pierced in quatrefoils. The four doorways are ogee-headed, with crockets and finials. There is strong evidence in the construction of the present tower that it was the original intention to surmount it by some other erection, probably a spire. Each interior angle contains strong and massive squinches which are of no constructive use at present, and must have been originally inserted to carry some superstructure. The buttresses at the angles are also carried up to the parapet, which would seem to point to the same conclusion. Why this project was never carried out cannot be said, but probably it would not have added to the artistic effect of the tower. The belfry contains a peal of eight bells.

The Central Tower, From Palace Green.

The East Front.-The circumstances which led to the removal of Carileph's apses and the erection of the eastern transept have already been referred to. The present east end is divided into three bays by massive buttresses, each of which contains three lofty lancet windows separated by smaller buttresses. Over all, and in the gable, is the famous large rose window. The north and south ends of the transept are finished with the tall pyramidal pinnacles erected by Wyatt.

Detail Of Ironwork on South Door.

The West Front of Durham has, curiously enough, also lost its original character. The western doorway of the cathedral is hidden on the exterior by the Galilee or Lady Chapel, which was added by Pudsey in 1175. Above the Galilee roof is the large window inserted about the year 1346, while John Fossor was prior. The pointed arch of this window has over it, on the exterior, the original great semi-circular arch. Above this again, and between the two flanking western towers, is a small gable. The west end of the cathedral, when seen from the opposite side of the river, is extremely picturesque. The projecting mass of the Galilee, the western towers, the foreshortened nave roof, and the majestic central tower behind and above, form a group of high and rare excellence.

The Sanctuary Knocker.

The North Door is now the principal entrance to the cathedral. Externally the present porch is the work of Wyatt. The first porch was Norman, of four orders depth, with detached shafts in the recesses. Above this was a high-pitched gable and roof, the front being ornamented with a semi-circular-headed wall arcading. The inner side of the doorway is of two orders only, and is probably the only remaining portion of the original. The outer shaft is left plain, while the inner one, in each case, is most elaborately carved. The capitals are all carved, and the arch moulds richly ornamented with chevrons, foliage, and lozenges, as well as many curious figure subjects. While examining this doorway, notice should be taken of the ironwork of the door itself, and particularly of the sanctuary knocker. In medi?val times all churches afforded sanctuary to wrong-doers, but at places where the shrines of saints existed the sanctuary privileges were much greater. Durham being one of these, there are many curious cases on record of persons claiming the privilege, and protection from the secular law. The earliest instance, of which any record has been kept, of sanctuary being claimed at the shrine of S. Cuthbert is during the episcopate of Cynewulf, who was bishop from 740 to 748, and the last recorded was in 1524. Criminals claiming sanctuary were admitted by two janitors, who occupied two small chambers over the doorway, traces of which may still be observed. The knocker itself, as may be seen from the illustration, is a great grotesque head, made of bronze, and hanging from its grinning mouth is a ring. Originally, there is no doubt, the eyes were filled with crystals or enamel, as small claw-like pieces of bronze remain by which the filling was attached. The age of this piece of work is probably the same as that of the doorway itself.

Ironwork On Doors of Cloisters.

The South Doorways.-There are two doorways into the south aisle, one, known as the Monks' Door, opening from the western portion of the cloisters and immediately opposite the north porch just described. On the cloister side this shows a Norman arch resting on double shafts, which are enriched with a lozenge pattern. On the inner or aisle side there are two orders, with shafts in the recesses, which are also decorated with the lozenge. The inner arch is carved with chevrons, and the outer with conventional foliage and medallions. The capitals are richly carved with foliage and grotesques. On the abacus and arch of this doorway occurs a leaf pattern strongly suggesting the Byzantine influence which at one time was found in Norman decoration. Here again, on the door itself, we have a fine specimen of very elaborate and characteristic Norman iron-work. The second, known as the Priors' Door, opens into the south aisle from the eastern alley of the cloister, is also Norman. The outer or cloister side is of the time of Bishop Pudsey, and has an arch of four orders, with three shafts in the recesses on either side. Its once elaborate sculpture is now much decayed, not enough remaining to suggest that in its original state this doorway must have been a noble specimen of the architectural design of its period. On the inner side it exhibits work of Carileph's time, with an early arch, cushion capitals, and shafts.

Ornament On South Doorway.

The Western Doorway.-The exterior of this great doorway is now within the Galilee chapel. It was built by Flambard (1099-1128), and is comparatively plain. On the Galilee side it consists of an arch of four orders ornamented with chevrons. The inner face is very similar to the outer, but is shallower, having only two orders. The shafts and capitals are without decoration, and the arch ornamented with chevron and a leaf pattern with medallions carved with grotesque animals. In order to reopen this doorway and make a carriage road up to it, Wyatt proposed pulling down the Galilee chapel.

The Cloister.

The Cloister occupies a large open space, bounded on the south, east, and west by the various monastic buildings, and on the north by the cathedral itself. The existing cloister was commenced during the time of Bishop Skirlaw (1388 to 1406), and was completed by Cardinal Langley (who held the see from 1406 till 1438), probably in the earlier part of his episcopate. The contracts (the first dated 1398) for building the cloister are still preserved in the treasury. We are indebted to Bishop Skirlaw for their very existence, as it is recorded that he contributed sums of money for this purpose, both during his life and by his will. The cloister, as seen to-day, has been very much altered and restored, and probably the only original feature remaining is the fine oaken ceiling. This is panelled, and moulded, and decorated with shields, upon which are painted and gilded various coats of arms. In the centre of the cloister garth are the remains of what was the monks' lavatory. It was erected in the years 1432 and 1433, and was of octagonal shape. Some of the stone for its construction was brought from Egglestone-on-Tees, on payment of rent to the abbot of that place to quarry it. It is said to have had twenty-four brass spouts, seven windows, and in its upper storey a dovecote, the roof of which was covered with lead.

There is no doubt that there was a cloister attached to the monastery in its early days, but of this no trace remains. It is also probable that one was erected by Bishop Pudsey, though this also has entirely vanished, unless (as suggested by Canon Greenwell) some marks of a lean-to roof on the north and east walls may be traces of its presence. In the western alley of the cloister is the old treasury, rich in records, and the vestries for canons, king's scholars, and choristers. The alley opens at the end into what is now called the crypt (see p. 85). This was undoubtedly the common hall of the monks. It is a spacious stone-vaulted chamber. The columns are low and massive, with simple moulded caps, from which the chamfered vaulting ribs diverge. Over the hall or crypt is the dormitory, which for a long time formed part of a residence attached to one of the stalls. It is now, however, used as a library. It occupies the whole of the western side of the cloister, and is 194 feet long. It was originally subdivided, by wooden partitions, into separate sleeping-rooms for each monk. Its massive roof of oak is worthy of attention, the tree trunks being merely roughly squared with an axe (see p. 99).

In the south alley was the refectory and the monks' common dining-hall. The original building is now entirely altered, though there remains beneath it a very early crypt, with plain, short square piers, and a simple quadripartite vault without ribs. Another portion is covered by a wagon-head vault. Whether the original refectory was of similar architectural character it is now impossible to say, as, whatever it may have been, it was removed early in the sixteenth century and rebuilt, and after the dissolution of the monastery was used by the Minor Canons of the church as a common hall. It seems to have fallen into a bad state of repair, and was again entirely reconstructed by Dean Sudbury (1661-1684), who was elected to that office immediately after the Restoration. He converted it into a library, to which use it is still put. The account of this building, given in the "Antiquities of Durham," is of sufficient interest to bear quotation.

"In the South Alley of the Cloysters," says our authority, "is a large Hall, called the Frater-house, finely wainscotted on the North and South sides; and in the West and nether Part thereof, is a long Bench of Stone in Mason-work, from the Cellar Door to the Pantry or Cove Door: Above the Bench is Wainscot Work two Yards and a Half high, finely carved, and set with imboss'd Work in Wainscot, and gilded under the carved Work. Above the Wainscot was a large Picture of our Saviour Christ, the blessed Virgin Mary, and S. John, in fine gilt Work, and most excellent Colours; which Pictures having been washed over with Lime did long appear through it. This Wainscot had engraven on the Top of it, Thomas Castell, Prior, Anno Domini, 1518 Mensis Julij. Whence it is manifest that Prior Castell wainscotted the Frater-house round about.

"Within the Frater-house Door, on the Left Hand at entering, is a strong Almery in the Wall, wherein a great Mazer, called the Grace Cup, stood, which every day served the Monks after Grace, to drink out of round the Table; which cup was finely edged about with Silver, and double Gilt. In the same place were kept many large and great Mazers of the same sort.... Every Monk had his Mazer severally by himself to drink in, and had all other Things that served the whole Convent, and the Frater-house in their daily Service, at their Diet, and at their Table.... At these Times (at meals) the Master observed these wholesom and godly Orders, for the continual instruction of their Youth in Virtue and Learning; that is, one of the Novices appointed by the Master, read some Part of the Old and New Testament in Latin, during Dinner, having a convenient place at the South End of the High Table, within a beautiful Glass Window, encompass'd with Iron, and certain Stone Steps, with Iron Rails to go up to an Iron Desk, whereon lay the Holy Bible....

"This Fabrick retained the Name of the Petty Canons' Hall till Dr Sudbury, Dean of the Cathedral, generously erected a beautiful Library in its Place; but he not living to finish it compleatly, did by (a clause) in his Last Will, bind his Heir, Sir John Sudbury, to the due Execution thereof."

S. Cuthbert's Chest in the Castle.

The contents of the library are both numerous and interesting. There are several thousands of volumes, many of them being rare and valuable. Numerous ancient illuminated MSS., among which is a copy of the Gospels of S. Mark, S. Luke, and S. John, written before the year 700; and several books given by Bishops Carileph and Pudsey. Among the latter is a Bible, in four volumes, in its original stamped leather binding. A collection of ancient copes belonging to the cathedral, and the remains of the robes of S. Cuthbert, and other relics taken from his coffin when it was exhumed, in 1827, may also be seen here. Numerous specimens of Roman altars, tablets, and sculptured stones, from various Roman stations in Durham and Northumberland, notably from Hexham, are preserved in this library, which is open to the public on Tuesday and Friday in each week from eleven to one. The room is finely proportioned, and has a magnificent open timber roof.

The Chapter-House.

The Chapter-House opens upon the eastern alley of the cloister. The present building is a very recent restoration of the original, which is acknowledged to have been the finest existing Norman chapter-house remaining in England. It was erected, or more probably completed, during the time of Bishop Galfrid Rufus (1133-1140), and was in existence until 1796, during the episcopate of Bishop Barrington. At that time it was almost totally destroyed, on the advice of Wyatt, who reported to the chapter that it was in a ruinous state. The truth of this report is doubtful, but the partial demolition of the building was ordered in November 1795, and also the construction of a new room on the site. The work of destruction was begun by knocking out the keystones of the vaulting and allowing the roof to fall in. The eastern half of the building was then altogether removed, and the remaining portion enclosed by a wall. Its interior was faced with lath and plaster, a plaster ceiling and a boarded floor being added. Fortunately authentic records of its original appearance, both exterior and interior, are in existence. They are the drawings made for the Society of Antiquaries by John Carter in 1795. Its dimensions were 78 by 35 feet; the east end being apsidal and the roof a vault of one span. Round the wall of the interior ran a stone bench raised on two steps, which was surmounted, except at the west end, by a wall arcade, of round-headed intersecting arches, similar to that in the aisles of the cathedral, but with single instead of double shafts. Above the arcade was a string course carved with zig-zag ornament. The entrance was from the west end, and the east end was occupied by two seats, one for the bishop and one for the prior. In the apse were five three-light windows of the Decorated period, and above the western door a five-light Perpendicular window, which contained coloured glass, illustrating the "Root of Jesse." On either side of this was a window of two lights, divided by a shaft and enclosed under one arch, carved with chevron ornament. There was also a round-headed Norman window in each of the north and south walls. A doorway in the south wall led to three chambers, one larger, and two smaller, which are stated in the "Rites of Durham" to have been used as a prison for the monks. The chapter-house was used in early times as a burial-place for the bishops, and many of their graves with inscriptions were in existence previous to the demolition of 1796. During excavations in 1874, the graves of Bishops Flambard, Galfrid Rufus, S. Barbara, de Insula, and Kellaw were opened, when various rings and the head of a crozier were discovered and removed to the dean and chapter library.

The chapter-house has now been entirely restored as a memorial to the late Bishop Lightfoot.

The Northern Alley of the Cloister, running along the south wall of the church, contains little of interest, except the two doorways previously described.

The effect of the cloister as a whole, in its original condition, with the windows glazed, many containing fine stained glass, the oak roof with its heraldry and colour, and the lavatory in the centre of the garth, must have been exceptionally fine.

A sculptured panel on the north-west turret of the Nine Altar Chapel is now known as the Dun Cow. The original sculpture was replaced in the last century by the existing panel, but the legend connected with it is interesting. After their flight from Chester-le-Street, the monks, bearing the body of S. Cuthbert, remained some time at Ripon. While trying to return to Chester-le-Street, at a place called Wardlaw, the coffin stuck fast, and remained absolutely fixed. A fast of three days was proclaimed and kept, when it was revealed to them that they were to carry their saint to Dunholme. Still they were in difficulties, not knowing where Dunholme was, but fortune, or Providence, again favoured them. A woman, who had lost a cow, passed, calling to a companion to inquire if she had seen the animal. The reply was that her cow was in Dunholme; and, to the relief of the monks, they and their precious charge soon safely arrived there. In grateful commemoration of the incident Flambard erected this monument of a milkmaid and her cow. (See p. 9.)

The Exterior, from the South-east.

The exterior of Durham Cathedral as a whole may at first sight be disappointing to the visitor. Seen from a near view there is a certain flatness of effect and want of light and shade which is, perhaps, slightly unpleasant. This is, however, largely attributable to the scaling and scraping process to which the building was subjected during the last century, when some inches of the outer surface of the stone, and with it much architectural detail, were removed. The result is the flatness previously alluded to, and a general newness of appearance pervades the structure. Seen, however, from a distance, where only the finely-grouped and proportioned masses of masonry, towers, and turrets stand against the sky, the result is magnificent, giving an impression of grandeur and dignity unsurpassed by any other English cathedral.

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The Nave, looking West.

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