Soyer's Culinary Campaign

An early visit-Virginia Water-An eccentric friend-Rail v. coach-Humour of the road-The old coachman-The widow-Sally's trouble-Another surprise-The "Wheatsheaf"-Beautiful scenery-Letter from the Duchess of Sutherland.

A MOST curious dream haunted my mind throughout the night, one of those indescribable phantasmagorian illusions which set all the vibrations of the heart at work without moving the frame, or in imagination only, quite depriving our senses for the time of the true sense of existence. Scarcely had the first gleam of Aurora peeped through my curtains, than a double knock was heard at the street door, apprising me that the time for rising had come, and forthwith brought back my wandering senses to the realities of human life: a minute after, a friend popped into my dressing-room, exclaiming, "Hallo! so you are going to the seat of the war, I hear."

"The seat of the war! who told you so?"

"Why, the Times, to be sure; I have just read your letter, which, at all events, is very likely to carry you as far as Constantinople."

"You don't say so! What! is my letter in the Times to-day?"

"Of course it is," he replied.

"I sent it so late last night, I did not suppose it could appear till to-morrow, if at all."

"They would not have inserted it, arriving so late, I assure you, had they not thought it of great importance, and that you were likely to improve the hospital diets. No doubt you will soon set them to rights. I read the article, and must say I was much pleased when I saw your letter, and that is what brought me here so early: but mind, it is a long journey, and rather a dangerous one."

"Well, my dear friend, if Government honour me with their confidence, I shall be happy to start immediately, and rough it for a short time-say a couple of months, which will be about the time required."

"My opinion is, that you will soon hear from the authorities."

"I say again, they are perfectly welcome to my humble services."

"Are you going out this morning?"

"Yes, I am; excuse my shaving."

"Oh, by all means; which way are you going?"

"Anywhere but to a wintry place."

"Where's that-Gravesend or Margate?"

"Oh dear, no-Virginia Water."

"To stay?"

"No; only to settle a few important matters there, prior to my departure for Paris."

"You were there the best part of last summer."

"So I was; who told you that?"

"Don't you recollect the party you gave there, when Messrs. R-- and ladies were present, with myself, my wife, and two daughters? We never enjoyed such a day in our lives; it really was a splendid affair altogether; and what an excellent dinner you gave us in the open air, in the long avenue of beech trees facing the lake! I shall not forget it as long as I live-I may say we, for my young ones often talk about it. There were about twenty-four guests-you recollect, of course?"

"Certainly I do now, and what a lovely day it was!"

"Never saw a finer," said my friend; "the ladies walked round the lake without their bonnets, and with nothing but their parasols to screen them from the sun. But I tell you who was most amusing amongst the party-that old Yorkshire farmer."

"Ha, ha! old Lawrence-he is a squire now, if you please, and has retired. He was very kind to me on the occasion of the grand agricultural dinner at Exeter; the ox I roasted whole upon that occasion came from his farm; it was roasted by gas, and in the castle yard."

"Ah, I recollect seeing an engraving of it in the Illustrated London News; I can't help laughing when I think of the old man, for at every fresh dish of which he partook-and he tasted a good many-he exclaimed-'Well! hang me, if I know what stuff I am eating, but it's precious good!'"

"I know he is very eccentric; he stayed with me nearly a week, and really made me laugh heartily with his genuine repartee. He is a good and a charitable man, I assure you. I taught his housekeeper how to make cheap soup while I was at his residence, and ever since the old gentleman has given it four times a-week to the poor round his small estate, during the winter season."

"I know the soup you mean. I cut the receipt from the paper in the year '47, at the time of the famine in Ireland, when you were sent there by Government."

"Exactly."

"We tried it ourselves; and my wife's mother has ever since given it throughout the winter to about twelve or fifteen poor people. The old lady was at first obliged to make it herself, her cook saying that no soup could be made with such a small quantity of meat. She would not even attempt to make it."

"I believe you; but those people are not aware that in Scotland, where the strongest people in the British dominions are to be found, and especially in the Highlands, they live principally upon oatmeal porridge and vegetables, partaking of a very small portion of animal food;-and did you ever see a finer carnation cheek, or purer blood, than that which flows through the frame of a Scotch lassie, or in the veins of the descendants of the Bruce?"

"No, never; not even on the Continent. But, to return to the receipts: I would advise you to publish them. They would be eagerly purchased, and would render greater service. You must be aware that a slip from a newspaper is often lost."

"Very true; and I intend to give a series of new receipts on food for the poor, still more simplified."[2]

"With reference to our conversation about old Lawrence: no doubt he is a good fellow, and a genuine rough diamond into the bargain."

"Yes," said I, "and you may add, of the finest water. By the bye, didn't he go to bed rather top-heavy?"

"Ah, that he did, and fancied himself at home blowing up his old woman, as he calls her, for having let the cat into the dairy, and being unable to find his gun to shoot her. What most astonished the old boy, he told me on the coach next morning on our way to London, was having no headache and feeling as hungry as a hunter-as I did myself. He made sure, after such a mixture of dishes, wines, liquors, and spirits of all kinds, that he should be ill and unable to eat anything for a couple of days. Quite the contrary, however: when at Staines, we made a hearty breakfast at the hotel; and for my part, I never felt better in my life."

"And do you know," I replied, "I should have been surprised if my dinner had produced the contrary effect; rest assured, that a dinner well conceived and properly executed, coupled with well-selected beverages, is more than half digested. As Hippocrates says, very justly, 'What pleases the palate nourishes;' and we may add, greatly helps to accelerate the digestion when properly cooked. The palate alone can relish the charm of degustation, and only feels satiated when the stomach, being the working organ, refuses to deal with improper food, never failing to acquaint you physically of its ill treatment, both as regards ill-cooked food or bad beverages. Now, to illustrate this argument more forcibly, I would wager that I could give a first-class indigestion to the greatest gourmet, even while using the most recherché provisions, without his being able to detect any fault in the preparation of the dishes of which he had partaken; and this simply by improperly classifying the condiments used in the preparation; thus deceiving the cleverest doctors and the finest palate by a mere counterbalance of unctuous seasoning, which no doubt caused the celebrated Leibnitz to say, in his treatise upon the chemistry of food, now translated into English, and to which I have already referred in my Shilling Cookery Book, 'That among all the arts known to man, there is none which enjoys a juster appreciation, and the products of which are more universally admired, than that which is concerned in the preparation of our food. Led by an instinct which has almost reached the dignity of conscious knowledge, as the unerring guide, and by the sense of taste, which protects the health, the experienced cook, with respect to the choice, admixture, and preparation of food, has made acquisitions surpassing all that chemical and physiological science have done in regard to the doctrine or theory of nutrition.'"

"Well, no doubt if the celebrated Leibnitz, who is considered one of the greatest authorities of the age, says so, you cannot be wrong, having had so much practice in the culinary art."

"I also maintain that with the simplest and cheapest of all aliments, when in good condition, I have turned out a most wholesome and palatable food, quite worthy of the most refined palate, or of that of the initiated epicure. For instance, if only first-class provisions could be converted into succulent dishes, the gastronomic bill of fare of this sublunary world would indeed be so limited that more than two-thirds of its inhabitants would be classified as martyrs to the Mageric art-or, more plainly speaking, martyrs to the science of cookery-a too often neglected art, though of daily requirement; for, believe me, the everlasting pleasures of the table, which favour all ages, are not only the basis of good health when properly managed, but also the soul of sociability, not merely in high circles, but in every class of society, no matter how humble, the stomach of each individual having been nursed according to rank and wealth. Those most to be pitied are the real epicures of limited means, or the wealthy man without appetite or of bad digestion. The proverb is quite correct, 'What the eye does not see the heart cannot grieve;' and appetite being the best of sauce, will cause the coarsest food to be digested with delight by a robust stomach. By the same rule, what is more relished by our noble epicure than a dry sandwich or a coarse crust of bread and cheese at a farmhouse after a hard day's sport?"

"Upon my word, you are perfectly right; appetite is really the best of sauce, for I often make a good and hearty supper upon baked potatoes, a little salt, and butter."

"Now, my friend, I am ready to start; come with me-it is a fine frosty morning, and will do you good-come on."

"I wish I could, but my City business is very heavy this morning, so I must decline; besides, we have a railway meeting called for three o'clock at the London Tavern."

"Master, here's a Hansom coming this way; shall I call it?"

"Yes, Annette, that's a good girl." I shook hands with my friend, and jumped into the cab-"I say, coachman, look sharp and drive to the Windsor railway station; I fear I shall miss the special train."

"No, you will not," said my friend, looking at his watch, "you have full twenty minutes; good-bye, a pleasant journey."

"Well, adieu! I shall see you some evening at Jullien's or Drury Lane Theatre."

"Very probably."

"Stay a minute, cabby;"-to the servant-"Annette, put any letters which may come on my desk; if anybody calls, say I shall be here to-morrow or next day at the latest."

"Very well, sir, I will do so."

On my arrival at the station, I merely had time to take my ticket and run to the train, which was just on the move. In a few seconds we were flying over rows of houses like vampires, leaving the then desolate Royal property, Vauxhall tumble-down theatre, with its skeleton firework frame, on the left. We passed through Chiswick, Barnes, Mortlake, Kew, with its toyish pagoda, leaving to the left Richmond, with its picturesque banks, cheerful villas, heroine of the hill, and its exquisite maids of honour; at the same time crossing the Thames, cheerfully smiling beneath us in its serpentine bed. Its limpid currents flowed merrily downwards to the mighty ocean through green bushes, aquatic plants, and the alabaster-coloured plumage of hundreds of swans. In twenty-five minutes we arrived at Staines station. I descended and immediately ascended again, but on the top of the Virginia Water coach, which generally waits for the special train. "Very frosty this morning, coachman."

"Hallo, Mr. Soyer! is that you? We have not seen you God knows how long. I suppose you have left us for good now?"

"No, not quite; but your flat and unpicturesque country looks so dull and unsociable at this time of year."

"Then you prefer town just now?" said he.

"I certainly do; there is always something to be seen there, and to keep one alive, morning, noon, and night."

"Very true, Mr. Soyer; we are very dull here in winter." The top of the coach was loaded with passengers. "Well, boy, what are you about below?"

"All right, coachman," cried the parcel-boy. "Pst! pst! Go it, my Britons!"

We were now at full trot, the north wind in our faces, and a kind of heavy sleet, which in a few minutes changed the colour of our noses to a deep crimson, very much like the unfashionable colour of beet-root, freezing our whiskers and moustaches like sugar-candy, but by no means quite so sweet-tasted. By way of a joke, I said to the coachman, "This is the good old English way of travelling, is it not?"

"That it is, sir; and I'm very glad to see you know how to appreciate it. Talk about your railways, it's perfect nonsense compared with a good four-in-hand coach, sir." As he said this, he whipped his horses, "Pst! go ahead, my true blue! I recollect the good old time when we took from fourteen to fifteen hours from London to Dover, changing horses and drinking your glass of grog at almost every inn on the road-in fact, enjoying ourselves all night, especially when the widow was out."

"What widow?" said I.

"The moon, to be sure!"

"That is a bright idea of yours. I was not aware the pale queen of night was a widow."

"Lord bless you, sir, she must be a widow, for she always comes out alone, and keeps very late hours; a maid or a married woman can't do that, you know," said he, laughing heartily.

"If your remark is not correct, it is at all events very original."

"But to come back to coach-travelling-then you really knew if you were travelling or stopping at home; while now they pack you up under lock and key, in strong wooden boxes, such as we keep our horses in at the stable; and at the head of them they have a kind of long iron saveloy, full of nothing, which runs away with the lot like mad, belching and swearing all the way, taking sights at us poor coachmen just so," putting his hand to his nose, "when we go by, as though we were a set of ragamuffins. Call that a gentlemanly way of travelling, sir! They make fun of all the passengers who are a little behind time, saying the like of this: 'Don't you wish you may get it?' If you drop anything by accident, the deuce a bit will they stop to pick it up; and you are no sooner in than they turn you out, and pocket your money without blushing, the same as though they had dragged you about from morning till night, as we used to do in the good old time. That was indeed money honestly earned, sir!"

"There certainly is a great deal of truth in your argument," said I, laughing at his devotion to his old business.

"Is it not brimful of truth, sir?"

"Of course it is!" I was by this time about half frozen.

"Ah, sir, you're a gentleman, and know life as well as I do. Depend upon it, sir, coach-travelling is the best after all-no danger of being smashed to pieces or of breaking your limbs. Not the slightest accident ever can happen. Hallo!" said he, stopping the horses short, "what the deuce is the matter with that horse? Look out, Bob!"

"Yes, sir; the old trace is broke again."

"The deuce it is! Well, we must mend it."

"You can't-it's broke in a fresh place, and we have no rope here." The coachman getting down, unceremoniously threw the reins to me. "Hold them fast, sir."

"Well, well, my lad, you must run back and fetch another." The snow was then falling heavily, and we had not got more than a mile on the road. In about forty minutes the boy returned, perspiring terribly, though covered with snow.

"I've not been long, coachman, have I?"

"Not been long, my lad-why, my cargo is nearly frozen to death!"

"You're right, coachman," said an old gentleman. "And I promise you I will never travel by your coach again. This is the second time this month."

"Well, sir, we are not travelling now-we are at a stand-still, and no mistake."

"You may joke, but I don't like it."

"No more do I," said coachman; "so we are of the same opinion." At this we all laughed, except the old gentleman.

In a short time all was right again. The coachman had resumed his important position as well as the reins, which I abdicated to my great satisfaction, and we were on the move. "Very slippery, governor; my horses can scarcely keep their feet. Thank God, we are not in a hurry; we can do the journey much more comfortably."

"Excuse me," said I, "if I do not hold exactly the same opinion as I did just now about the railway."

"My dear sir, are you in a hurry?" he asked.

"Yes, I am, and very cold besides."

"What a pity you did not say so before! I should have made my stud fly, and beat to atoms that fussy stuff they call steam."

"That's a good man; show off a bit."

"Pst! pst! pst! Look out for a full charge, Cossack; fly away, Cannon-ball. Pst! pst! that's it, lads." We were now nearly at a gallop.

"Coachman," said I, "I see that your horses have martial names, if they have not a very martial appearance. Pray, who gave them such warlike titles?"

"The boys in the stable, sir. Everybody dreams of war now, sir; the very air we breathe smells of powder. Don't you think so, sir?"

"No, I think it smells of cheese."

"By-the-bye, there's a basket of cheese for that foreign gentleman who lives at Virginia Water. Jump up, boy, and move that basket of cheese from here."

We arrived at Wimbledon Common, and stopped to take up parcels and boxes, during which time the coachman pointed out to the old country gentleman with whom he had the argument, the window of the room where Cournet, the French officer of Marines, and the opponent of Barthélemy, who had just been hanged, died after the Windsor duel. He was saying that since Barthélemy had been hanged the house was no longer haunted, and that the pool of blood, which never could be washed out, had suddenly disappeared.

"Marvellous!" exclaimed the old gentleman; "I never heard anything like that in my life."

"No more did I," said our witty coachman, winking at me. The boy now called over the various parcels, and Cossack went off as fast as a cannon-ball. We made a few more stoppages at Englefield Green, to deliver several scolding letters and parcels from mistresses to their servants having charge of the summer abodes of wealthy merchants who reside in London during the winter. At one house, during the unloading of two or three boxes and a child's cradle, a tidy-looking girl, who was waiting till they were taken in, had opened her letter, over which she appeared very sulky. The coachman, perceiving this, said, smiling-"Any answer, Sally?"

"No!" said Sally. "Oh, yes; tell the old lady that I will not live with her any longer;" and the girl cried.

"What's the matter?" said the coachman.

"She's an old plague! there's my Harry of the 46th has not been here these four months, and she writes to say she hears that he comes every day."

"Of course not-how could he? he's been gone to the war with his regiment ever since last September."

Sally, crying still louder, and wiping her eyes with her apron, exclaimed, "Perhaps the poor fellow is killed by this time, and don't care a fig about me."

"Well, well, lass, never mind that; soldiers are used to it."

"Do you think I shall ever see him again, Mr. Coachman?"

"No doubt, my lass, but you must wait a little longer; and when he does come back, if he has distinguished, instead of extinguished, himself, he will have the Crimean medal, and perhaps be made a colonel-captain-general-marshal-or even a corporal; who knows? in these war times, every brave man has a chance."

"Thank you, Mr. Coachman, you make me very happy-I shan't cry any more."

"But, Sally, am I to tell your mistress what you said?"

"Oh, dear, no! because I should lose my place; they are not such bad people after all, and master is so very kind to me."

"I shall say nothing about it."

"Pray, say nothing."

"Pst, pst! now, my true blues, full speed for Virginia Water." In twenty minutes we were before the very picturesque inn called the "Wheatsheaf;" every living soul came out to welcome us, thinking some accident had happened. There was the landlord, landlady, thin and bulky barmaids, house and kitchen maid, cook, pot and post boy, and a number of customers.

"What has happened that you are so late to-day?" said the landlord to the coachman.

"Nothing particular, governor; only a trace broke, and we had to fetch another: besides, the roads are very slippery." To the barmaid-"Give us a light, girl, and a go of keep-me-warm."

"Don't believe him, sir," exclaimed an old lady, who, upon the sudden stoppage when the trace broke, had a quarrel with the coachman. In opening the window violently, she broke it in twenty pieces; popping her head, half of which was covered with snow, out of the window-"He is a perfect brute," said she; "he tried to upset us, and then would not move for above an hour at least-see the state I am in; is it not a great shame, a woman like me?"

"Well, madam," said the landlord, "why don't you shut the window?"

"What's the use of pulling it up?-it's broken in a thousand pieces, all through that nasty fellow!"

"I can assure you, madam, he bears a very good character with the gentry about here."

The coachman, lighting his short pipe, and coming near them, said, "Don't take notice of the old lady, she means no harm."

"Don't I, though! I say again, before everybody, you are a brute and a villain!"

"Go it, marm, go it," said he, getting up. "It's nothing new to me-my wife tells me that every day, which is partly the cause we have no family." The favourite horse language of the coachman was again, heard-"Fly away to the assault like a set of Zouaves!" and in a few minutes nothing but a small black spot, resembling a fly crossing a sheet of paper, was seen running up the snow-covered hill which leads to the small village of Virginia Water.

I speedily joined the worthy and well-known landlord of the "Wheatsheaf"-Mr. Jennings, and his cheerful wife and barmaid; all of whom gave me a hearty country welcome, shaking my hands and arms in every direction ad libitum, in anticipation, no doubt, of my remembering them for a few days at all events. At the close of this gymnastic exercise, I requested them to give me some breakfast, in the small pavilion near the garden; also some pens, ink, and paper. My request was at once attended to.

"Do you intend to stay with us a few days, Mr. Soyer?" asked the landlord.

"No; I shall try and get back this evening, if possible-but to-morrow morning, at the latest. I only came to close a few pending accounts of my last summer's stay at your lovely Virginia Water, and am going to Paris for the Exhibition, having been offered the superintendence of a large establishment."

"But I hear that the Exhibition is postponed till next year."

"So it is; but this is to be quite a new building, and erected close to the Exhibition, if we can get permission granted."

"Good morning, sir; I shall see you before you leave. I am only going to the farm."

"Yes, you will."

I was sitting down to my breakfast, when, to my annoyance, as I had much business to transact, some one knocked at the door, and, without waiting for the reply, came in. It was the landlord, with a face full of anxiety and astonishment, his glasses raised to his forehead, a newspaper in his hand, and looking as serious as if he had just been married, or had lost one of his favourite pups. "I say, master," said he, "do you mean it?"

"Mean what, man?"

"But now, really! do you mean it?"

"I'm puzzled to know to what you allude. Is it about my trip to Paris?"

"Paris! no, that has nothing to do with the letter of yours I have just read in the Times of this day."

"Oh! now I understand you, and can easily account for your long face and evident astonishment."

"Now you understand me, don't you?"

"Of course I do."

"Well, allow me to tell you frankly that you are very foolish; you are not a military man, and have made the offer, it is true, very likely in a moment of enthusiasm; but plead any excuse you can to get out of it if you are sent for; remain where you are-'Good folks are scarce,' says the proverb."

"Thanks to the proverb first, and you afterwards," said I.

"And if you do go, it is a hundred to one against your returning."

"Many thanks for your frank advice; but I am determined to go, and if Government send for me, I wish to be ready at a day's notice; so sure I am that I can render some services to my fellow-creatures by so doing."

"I have no doubt you can-but you may catch the fever, or God knows what besides! Why, they are dying by fifties and sixties a-day in the hospital at Scutari; look, here is the latest account, the names of the poor fellows defunct, and number of their regiments. There is no mistake in that."

"I am aware of all that; but mind you, my firm belief is, that no fruit falls from the tree to the ground till it is perfectly ripe; and I also believe that we are never gathered from this frivolous world till we are really wanted in the other."

"Such being your determination, it is no use talking any more about it; I only hope your health will not fail you, and that you will return and keep us alive as you did last year. I can assure you, your joyful dinner party, or 'feet shampeter,' as Mary the barmaid called it, and you used to say in French, was the talk of the country round. It is only three days ago that Colonel Cholmondeley was inquiring after you, and asking whether you had left the neighbourhood."

"Ah, really! how is the Colonel?"

"He looks remarkably well, I assure you, and will be very glad to see you."

"When you see the Colonel, pray present my most sincere compliments."

"So I will."

"I'm off, but hope to see you this evening; good-bye, in case I do not." The days being short, and my business more complicated than I had anticipated, prevented my visiting my favourite summer spot, the Paradis Champêtre of England.[3]

I slept that evening at the "Wheatsheaf;" I had given orders to be called the next morning at daybreak, and was crossing the avenue of lime-trees leading to the lake, in anticipation of witnessing, as I was wont of a summer's morning, its interminable sheet of silvery waters and green moss velvet banks, sprinkled with myriads of daisies-or stars of the fields-intermixed with golden cups, covered with pearly dew, bordered also by mountainous trees forming a formidable forest; the glittering Chinese fishing temple, Corinthian ruin, the flag floating on the castle tower, "Royal George" frigate and barks, the swans, and the music of thousands of birds with their notes of freedom so wild and full of nature. Alas! all my illusions were dispelled, as I could scarcely see a yard before me; a thick veil, caused by a severe white frost, seemed to monopolise and wrap in its virgin folds the beauty of this lovely spot. Though greatly disappointed, I was returning to the humble country inn with my soul filled by sublime reminiscences of that charming spot, worthy of the enchanted gardens of Armida, when a deformed and awkward-looking lout of a stableman, peeping from a clump of evergreens, thus accosted me:-"Will you take a red herring for breakfast, sir?"

I leave my readers to imagine the effect produced upon my then exalted imagination. Pushing him violently from me, "Away with you! unsociable and ill-timed Quasimodo!" I said. Having thus unceremoniously repulsed my evil genius, and being by that electric shock entirely deprived of my appetite, I ordered a post-chaise in lieu of breakfast, and in a short time was at the turnpike-gate adjoining the inn, waiting for change to pay the toll. It was then about ten minutes to eight o'clock.

In three-quarters of an hour the post-chaise took me to the railway station, and an hour after I was ascending my homely staircase, when the servant apprised me that many persons had called; some had left their cards, and a mounted groom had brought a letter, saying he would call at noon for an answer. Amongst the various letters I found upon my desk, I recognised one in the hand-writing of the Duchess of Sutherland. It was as follows:-

The Duchess of Sutherland will be much pleased to see Monsieur Soyer at Stafford House at two o'clock this day; or ten to-morrow morning, if more convenient to Monsieur Soyer.

7th February, 1856.

I had scarcely read this letter, when a double knock was heard at the street door. It was the footman from Stafford House, sent for an answer. I at once informed him I was going to wait upon her Grace; but as he was there, he might say that, at two o'clock precisely, I would do myself the honour of attending at Stafford House. Concluding, naturally enough, that the summons had reference to my letter, I immediately began to reflect how I should explain the plan I intended to adopt, in case my services were required. In the first place, I had decided that the most important question of all would be the entire freedom of my actions when I arrived at Scutari. This, of course, could not be granted, unless the Government, impressed with the importance of the subject, thought proper to do so. The active part would easily develop itself to my free and experienced mind.

Stafford House-A distinguished circle-The plan detailed-Its practicability admitted-Home again-Another summons-The War Office-An appointment made-Second interview with the Duchess of Sutherland-Samples of hospital diets-Question of seasoning-New system.

AT ten minutes to two I entered the superb portico of Stafford House, and was shown to the ground-floor library by the Duke's piper, young Mackenzie. "Her Grace will be with you presently," said he. "Walk in, sir, and I will apprise the Duchess of your arrival; who, I am aware, is anxious to see you."

I thanked him for his politeness, and he left me alone. I had scarcely time to cast a glance of admiration upon one of the chefs-d'?uvre of Landseer, representing the juvenile Stafford family, when her Grace entered, followed by the Duke and Duchess of Argyle, the Marquis and Marchioness of Stafford, the Marquis of Kildare, Lord and Lady Blantyre, her brother, and the children-about eighteen in number-Lady Grosvenor, and others. The Duchess of Sutherland introduced me to the noble circle, and requested all to be seated, which request was at once complied with; and her Grace addressed me in these terms:-"Monsieur Soyer, we have read with deep interest your letter which has appeared in the Times, and I cannot but express my admiration of your noble devotion when any good can be effected, or the position of the suffering be relieved or ameliorated by your assistance. The results of your interference would be very important-and especially at the present time-in our hospitals at Scutari, and in the Crimea, where, in consequence of such unexpected calamities, all is in the greatest confusion. I shall also observe to you, that I am well aware this offer is not your premier coup d'essai, or first trial. But I should advise you to consider the matter well, in case the Government accept your services. Judging from the tenor of the letters I receive daily from various departments at Scutari, I can perceive great difficulties, of which you are perhaps not aware."

"Your Grace," I replied, "is extremely kind to initiate me into the true position of the case; and first of all, I beg to observe that, were there no great difficulties to surmount, I should not have offered my services. But will you permit me to set forth, in a few words, the plan I propose adopting if Government should honour me with their confidence?"

"Pray do," exclaimed several of the circle, especially the Duke of Argyle, close to whom I was seated. Looking at his watch, and addressing me, the Duke continued, "Pray, Mr. Soyer, give me a slight conception of your project, as I have only a few minutes to stay. The Council of the Ministry, of which I am a member, meet in about an hour, and I must be there. I should be very glad to submit your plans to them; it might greatly tend to their adoption."

"Very true; your Grace shall judge if they are practicable or not. First of all, I should beg the entire confidence of the Government relative to my actions concerning the culinary department of the hospitals-that is, that they should grant me the power of obtaining the necessary articles of food already in the hospitals, and other things which might require to be purchased by either the commissariat or purveyor's department, without the slightest delay, as the want of such power would tend to certain failure-which I wish to avoid; while the possession of their confidence will ensure success. I will then pledge my word to do everything in my power, and with the greatest economy, and, if possible, with the same quantity of provisions as at present allowed by Government, or even less, which would be a source of high gratification to me; and I sincerely hope to be able to do so after the inquiries I made this morning, previous to attending your Grace's appointment; for I perceive, in many instances, that too much is given of one thing, and not enough of another. Having, therefore, the power to vary the ingredients and quantity, as well as to change inferior provisions for better, when possible, will greatly assist me in my undertaking."

"I have no doubt," said her Grace, "that what you request will be granted without the least hesitation."

"My plan would also be, never to act without the sanction of the doctor-in-chief respecting the diets I mean to introduce; and I would not interfere in the slightest degree with any former department, or displace a man from his duty except for incapacity, insubordination, or bad conduct; for believe me, if I am sent to Scutari, I go with the intention of doing all the good I can, and simplifying my difficult undertaking in such a manner as to ensure success. I should also claim the power of being able to condemn inferior provisions, and to substitute better, always without deviating from any army contract which has been, or may be, made by the Government, as I do not mean to hold myself responsible for the purchase of any provisions or stores, but merely to give my approval or disapproval of them. Upon my arrival at Scutari, I propose at once to take two hundred patients, and diet them for a week or more, according to the doctor's approbation, and then gradually increase the number, till I have the whole under my direction, if approved of by the chief medical officer. Such is the plan I propose adopting, and I shall beg your Grace to give me your opinion upon it."

"The way you intend carrying out your plan seems very practicable."

"Well," said the Duke, addressing the Duchess of Sutherland, "you must excuse me leaving now, as I have but a short time to get to Downing-street. Mr. Soyer, I shall have much pleasure in submitting your plan to the Ministerial Council, and will report progress."

After the Duke's departure, a general conversation was opened upon the subject, and having exchanged a few words with Lord and Lady Blantyre and the Duchess of Sutherland, who kindly promised to acquaint me with the result, I withdrew, and left Stafford House. No sooner home, having obtained the correct ration-scale of provisions from Dr. Andrews's office, than I formed a very fair idea of what I could do for the best.

The next morning, February 11th, about ten o'clock, I received the following communication from her Grace:

The Duchess of Sutherland has just seen his Grace the Duke of Argyle, who has spoken to Lord Panmure upon the subject of Mr. Soyer's offer. I think Lord Panmure is willing to forward the humane and practical views of Mr. Soyer, and will see Mr. Soyer at the War Office to-morrow.

The Duchess wishes to have the pleasure of seeing Monsieur Soyer after his visit to Lord Panmure.

Upon receipt of this letter I immediately went, as desired, to the War Department to see Lord Panmure's private secretary, Mr. Ramsay, and inquire when and where I could see his lordship. The hearty reception I met with from that gentleman was a most favourable augur, and encouraged me to persist in the very precarious undertaking in which I was about to engage, although many friends and near relations strongly tried to prevent me from pursuing it, placing constantly before my eyes the most sinister pictures, which, I am proud to say, never for a moment altered my mind. Having but one object in view, I was determined to see only the best side of the medal, and chance the rest.

Mr. Ramsay having arranged my interview with Lord Panmure for the next morning, I then retired, thanking him much for his very kind and courteous reception. I went home to test a few samples of diets and aliments I had prepared from the soldiers' rations; placing the whole of them in small vases, well packed, I sent them to Stafford House, there to remain till my arrival. In about an hour I had a second interview with the Duchess of Sutherland and a number of her noble family. After speaking of my visit to the War Office, and my appointment with his lordship for the morning,

"Lord Blantyre," the Duchess said, "has some business at the War Department to-day, and I shall trouble his lordship to remit another letter from me on the subject to Lord Panmure, who has, at the present time, so much to do that it is likely your interview might be postponed for another day."

"I can assure your Grace that the extreme interest you take in my behalf appears to me a good omen, assuring me of success, in case I should be sent to the seat of war. I would also observe that, being well aware of the value of Lord Panmure's time, in a few minutes I shall be able to unfold my plan, and he will no doubt at once perceive whether it is practicable or not, and will give me a decided answer; therefore, to lose time, on either side, would be impolitic. But, before I leave, will your Grace honour me by inspecting a few samples of hospital diets which I have prepared as a test, from the rations as at present given to the soldiers? They will form part of my new system, if approved by the medical officers."

"Have you some here, Mr. Soyer?"

"Yes, your Grace, I have; one of the footmen has taken charge of them till required."

The order having been given, a footman entered with the samples on a plateau, with spoons, &c., which were tasted by the select and noble party, who at once pronounced them very palatable, and to which I remarked, that through the nature of the ingredients they could not fail to be nutritious and light.

"It is to be regretted," I said, "that the cooks in many hospitals are not allowed to put the seasoning in the savoury diets, which restriction will invariably produce very unsatisfactory results. I will here repeat the saying of Hippocrates:-'What pleases the palate nourishes.' If this great man has said so, it is a pity that some of his modern disciples have altered or deviated from such an ancient and just maxim, for I will vouch that a diet properly seasoned is far more generous and invigorating to the patient than the unpalatable food prepared without anything of the sort; at the same time many maladies will require various degrees of seasoning, as too much in some cases would prove equally if not more injurious than the want of it in others. This point must be left to the doctor's discretion. I am also aware that in some hospitals salt and pepper are allowed, and, I may say, too abundantly; and each patient is permitted to season his food, not according to his taste, but his judgment: this is another evil, as he is or may be at the time entirely deprived of either taste or judgment. These remarks will be the first I shall submit to the notice of the principal doctor, and I am morally certain he will agree with me as soon as they are properly explained."

"A most important observation," said the Duchess; "for, even when in the enjoyment of good health, what is more disagreeable than an insipid dish?"

"I have always, madame, maintained that the cook must season for guests or patients, and not these for the cook."

"In fact," said I to the Marquis of Stafford, who had tasted several of the samples, "does not your lordship opine that salt and pepper should be almost excluded from the ward, and that the cook should be as responsible for seasoning the food as the apothecary is for making up the doctor's prescription correctly?"

"Certainly; but can you persuade them to do so?"

"Very easily; by my system of diet, every recipe will be printed, framed, and hung up in the kitchen, so that any person, even a soldier (provided he can read), will be capable of executing them well, as each receipt will be comprised in a few lines."

"Ah! that will, indeed, be most valuable, and readily applied in every hospital."

During this conversation, the Duchess of Sutherland and the Marquis of Stafford had tasted another kind of food which I had made for the camp. It was prepared from peas-meal, in which I had introduced a due proportion of salt and pepper,-called "Symon's ground baked peas-meal,"-and by pouring a pint of boiling water upon a good table-spoonful of it, made a most excellent and thick purée of peas quite hot. I one day, as a trial, ate nothing but that and a biscuit, and did not feel the least inclined for anything else. I do not mean to imply that such fare would do for a continuance, but when nothing else could be obtained, it certainly would be a great comfort for the troops to get a hot meal, made in a few minutes, and without trouble. All present tasted this, and expressed themselves very favourably about it. Having also left some samples of coffee, I was retiring, when the Duchess of Sutherland kindly reminded me that she should be happy to see me the morning after my interview with the Minister-at-War. Of course I should not have failed in presenting myself, even without this kind invitation.

Reception at the War Office-Full powers granted-The Duke of Cambridge-His chef de cuisine, Comte-Model of a portable camp or field stove-Visit to Lord Shaftesbury-Dr. Andrews-An encouraging porter-Phonetic experiments-Mr. Stafford's kind reception-Model of the stove inspected by the Duke of Cambridge and by Lord Panmure-Interview with Mr. Brunel-Dr. Mayne-Question of patent-Sir Benjamin Hawes' office-Stafford House again-Letters of introduction-Honourable Mrs. Herbert-A recreant secretary-Quite at a non-plus-A friend in need-Farewell at London Bridge-Pavilion Hotel, Folkestone.

AT nine o'clock next morning I was at the War Office by appointment. Lord Panmure arrived at half-past, and by the kindness of Mr. Ramsay, who had mentioned my arrival, I was immediately introduced and most cordially received. After a few words on my part, as I had not had the pleasure of seeing Lord Panmure since I left the Reform Club, he inquired what I proposed doing in respect to the cooking department of Scutari Hospital. Stating briefly that which I had previously explained in detail to the Duke of Argyle when at Stafford House, and with which Lord Panmure seemed to be perfectly acquainted, he said to me,-

"You must, after you have done there, go to the Crimea, and cheer up those brave fellows in the camp;-see what you can do! Your joyful countenance will do them good, Soyer; try to teach them to make the best of their rations!"

I then observed that, first of all, I must try and succeed in the hospitals; secondly, that, if the troops in the Crimea had the same small tin camp-kettle I had seen in the camp at Chobham, it would be impossible for me to improve the style of cooking, as they were much too small, and burnt too much fuel, more especially in the open air.

"Well," said Lord Panmure, "can you substitute anything more applicable for the camp, and which can be easily carried with the regiments while on march?"

"I will set my head to work and try, and if any plan which I consider practicable strikes me, I will have a model of it made, and submit the same for your lordship's approval."

"Well, do."

"With reference to the hospital at Scutari, I believe that is a permanent building, situated near a large metropolis, full of resources, and I have nothing to risk going there and setting to work immediately. I shall start in the full conviction of being able to do some good, if your lordship honours me with your full confidence and grants me the power of acting according to my own judgment in a profession which I have successfully practised for upwards of twenty years."

"Very good, Soyer! I shall give orders to that effect, and furnish you with letters of introduction to every department."

"Now, I hope you will do me the honour of accepting my services as I offered them, through the medium of the public press; such acceptance on the part of your lordship will, I can assure you, much facilitate the progress of my undertaking."

"I understand your meaning, Mr. Soyer; but I must make some arrangement for your expenses."

"Those, of course, I shall accept, or I should be giving offence to your lordship as well as the Government; more especially as I am, after visiting Scutari, to proceed to the Crimea."

"Well, tell me when you can start,-the mail leaves at noon to-morrow."

"I should be most happy to leave to-morrow, but previous to my departure for so long and unexpected a journey, I have some important private affairs to settle; it will therefore be impossible."

"Ah, truly! then I leave it to you, Soyer; but the sooner you go the better."

"Your lordship may depend upon my anxiety and promptitude; not a day, or even a minute shall be lost."

"Fare you well, Soyer; come and see me before your departure."

"Of course I will; but, begging your pardon, to whom shall I address myself for any further information I may require?"

"To myself, and no one else," was Lord Panmure's reply.

"I should be sorry to interrupt you in the incessant business you have from morning till night."

"My secretary, Mr. Ramsay, will always be here; but do not hesitate, if you require it, to see me."

"I certainly will not."

After a few words with Mr. Ramsay upon the subject of my interview, and what was decided upon, I immediately went to inform the Duchess of Sutherland of the result of my visit, at which her Grace expressed her gratification, and requested me to call again prior to my departure for the East, stating that she would give me some important letters of introduction to persons at Scutari, which would be most useful to me. After promising to do this, I retired. My intention was then to pay a visit to the Duke of Cambridge, who at that time took great interest in the subject, he having lately visited the hospital at Scutari; and made important observations upon the system of cooking carried on there.

As I was on my way to St. James's Palace, I met his Highness, accompanied by the Honourable James Macdonald, leaving the house; and having paid my respects, he inquired if I was going to Scutari, to which I replied in the affirmative. In a few words I gave him the result of my interview with Lord Panmure, and also spoke of the warm interest the Duchess of Sutherland took in the subject.

"Yes, I am aware of it," said he. "I had the pleasure of seeing her Grace yesterday." I then made a few inquiries respecting the state of the hospitals there, which his highness very kindly described to me.

The Duke remarked-"Your friend Comte will be able to give you all the information you may require, as he was with me at Scutari, and saw all the kitchen department in detail."

"Many thanks, your highness; I shall do myself the pleasure of paying him an early visit."

Five minutes after I was with my friend Comte, the Duke of Cambridge's chef de cuisine, who kindly initiated me into all the doings, both in the camp and in the hospitals on the Bosphorus. This information was of great service to me.[4]

Upon leaving my friend I hastily returned home, intending to draw out the plan of a model for a portable camp or field stove, which could also be applied to the use of the hospitals. Having heard that no regular kitchens had been established there, I was anxious to have a simple apparatus to take out with me of which I understood the working, and which might be put in action immediately on my arrival. In a very short time I hit upon an idea which I thought could be easily carried out, and would answer perfectly. Losing no time, I jumped into a cab and immediately drove to the eminent gas engineers and stove makers, Messrs. Smith and Phillips, of Snow-hill. On submitting my plan to those scientific gentlemen, they pronounced it practicable, and promised me a model, one inch to the foot, to be ready in a day or two.

Although the snow was falling heavily, I paid an early visit to Lord Shaftesbury, to whom I had the honour of being permitted to dedicate my last work-the "Cookery for the People."

His lordship gave me a most cordial reception, and was much, pleased to hear of my intention of going to the East. Lord Shaftesbury made several useful observations respecting the importance of my mission. I bade him adieu. His lordship kindly wished me all the success I could desire, and said that he should be happy to hear of my proceedings, of which I promised to inform him a short time after my arrival.

As I had a letter of introduction from Mr. Ramsay to Dr. Andrews, I proceeded to that gentleman's office, where I found several medical gentlemen waiting, with some of whom I had the pleasure of being acquainted. Others were engaged testing samples of preserved milk in glasses; and having asked me to test some, I selected one which they all agreed was the best: I believe it turned out to be Gamble's preserved milk, in tins. My letter of introduction having been given to the doctor, I had an immediate interview.

After listening to my few inquiries, he kindly wrote me a letter of introduction to Dr. Cumming, the superintendent at Scutari, and all the hospitals on the Bosphorus, promising me his support, and requesting that I might have all I required in my department upon application to the purveyor. He then put me in communication with a gentleman in charge of the stores, who would give me all the information respecting the kitchen utensils then in use in the hospitals. Having taken notes of everything, I retired perfectly satisfied with the important information I had gathered in so short a time.

I was well aware of the multiplicity of business daily transacted by the doctor, and the difficulty of obtaining a private interview with him, even on business, as one of the assistant porters told me when I called early one morning, that I might call till doomsday, and not be able to see him. This, of course, I took for granted, as no doubt the doctor would upon this solemn occasion be more engaged than ever. I must, however, observe that he at first took me for a merchant who had been for several years trying to persuade the English faculty to sanction or adopt the use of leeches to the same extent as is done in France. Not much flattered by the comparison, I wished him better manners for the future.

"I beg your pardon, sir; but not being on the military list, I did not know you. Why didn't you tell me you was Monseer Soyewere, then I should have knowed you? Of course, everybody knows you in England, Ireland, Wales, and Scotland."

"Well, never mind; but did I not give you my card?"

"Of course you did; but I could not make out the name of So-ye-were from five such letters as that," said he, showing my card to some one present. "Soyer! surely that never can be So-ye-were!"

"You spell and write admirably. Thank you for the wrinkle. I shall have my card altered."

I told the cabman to drive me to the residence of Mr. Stafford, M.P., at whose chambers I had the day before left a letter of introduction from the Duchess of Sutherland. I had the pleasure of a very interesting interview with that gentleman, who had then just returned from Scutari. Having given me the necessary details of what was most required, and about the number of assistants I should take with me to insure immediate success, he promised to furnish me with several letters of introduction, if I would send or call for them before my departure.

"I shall, certainly," said I, "much prefer calling, were it only to have the advantage of a little more of your valuable information upon any subject which may strike you after my departure; and I thank you for your kind and valuable suggestions."

"When do you think of starting?"

"In a couple of days at the latest."

"Very well; the letters shall be ready without fail, and two or three small parcels, which you will be kind enough to deliver for me-one especially for Miss Nightingale, rather fragile, and which I cannot send by post."

"I shall be most happy; jusqu'au plaisir de vous revoir."

I devoted the rest of that day to my private affairs, packing, and paying farewell visits. The next morning, at half-past nine, Messrs. Smith and Phillips, according to promise, brought me a most beautiful small model of the field-stove, which they warranted first-rate, and to be capable of working in or out of doors, and in all weathers. I immediately proceeded to the War-Office, to show the model, and explain the principle to Lord Panmure. In the waiting-room I had the honour of meeting the Duke of Cambridge, which gave me an excellent opportunity of explaining its merits. The Duke appeared to approve of it, and particularly noticed the great economy of fuel consequent upon the construction and smallness of the furnace. The Duke made some important remarks, and gave me a few hints upon the cooking regulations both in the hospitals and in the camps. These I took note of, and after explaining my plan of transport, I was quite delighted at having had such an opportunity of conversing with the Duke on a subject in which I was aware he felt particular interest. Mr. Ramsay, the secretary, having sent for me, I quitted the Duke; and, before leaving, I informed him that I had seen my friend Comte, and that he had given me all the assistance in his power, and had also told me that his highness had presented the hospital with a very nice petite batterie de cuisine, which, no doubt, I should find very useful upon my arrival.

"Adieu, Monsieur Soyer, I wish you well, and hope you will succeed."

On reaching Mr. Ramsay's office, that gentleman kindly informed me that if I wished to see Lord Panmure I had better wait till he went to take his luncheon. I then stated that my object was to show his lordship the model of a stove I had invented for the use both of the hospitals and the army.

"Walk into the next room; Lord Panmure will be there in a few minutes, and you will have plenty of time to show it without interfering with his business."

I had not waited ten minutes before Lord Panmure came in alone.

"Ah, Mr. Soyer, what have you there?"

"The model of a stove I wish to submit to your lordship. It is one which will, I believe, suit admirably for cooking both in and out of doors."

After closely examining it, and listening to the details I had previously given to the Duke of Cambridge, Lord Panmure approved of it, and requested me to have another made, which he might keep by him for inspection.

He then inquired how many cooks I should take with me.

"Only a few from Paris," I replied, "as I wish to make a trial before engaging many people; besides, I hope to be able, in a very short time, to instruct the soldiers, who, being under discipline, might prove as useful as any cooks."

Lord Panmure seemed pleased at my anxiety to instruct the soldiers; and, as he very justly remarked-"We want them to learn how to cook their rations to the best advantage, and that your instructions should remain for ever among them. Well, I have settled all you wished me to do; and my secretary, Mr. Ramsay, will remit you all the letters you require. When do you think of starting?"

"By the next mail."

"Well!" said his lordship, shaking me heartily by the hand, "Good-bye, if I do not see you again before your departure."

"It would only be troubling you; I therefore beg to take this opportunity of thanking your lordship for the kind reception and encouragement I have received, and, still more, for the confidence with which you have honoured me. I assure you that it will cause me to be most careful and economical, and it will be my pride to improve the diet without increasing the expense to Government. This may not be effected at first; but when the system is once introduced, and fairly established, I will answer for both a great amelioration as well as a saving."

"I am confident, Soyer, that you will do your best."

"Your lordship may depend upon me for that, were it only for my own sake."

"Well, write as soon as you arrive, and let us know how you get on."

Upon leaving, I met Mr. Ramsay, and related to him verbatim what had passed between Lord Panmure and myself. I then showed him the model, which he understood perfectly well, and gave me the engineer, Mr. Brunel's, address. I called upon that gentleman, and had the pleasure of an interview. He at once gave his full and entire approval of the principle, saying, "You really come at a most propitious time; Dr. Mayne and myself are actually busily engaged discussing a plan for establishing kitchens in the Smyrna hospital. Yours will answer very well, and assist us materially, as it is always a tedious department to construct in order to be effective, and work properly. No doubt they will be applicable to every public institution; besides, what a small quantity of fuel they must consume."

"Very little, indeed; and with this simple regulator you may manage the ebullition to a nicety, even in the open air. I shall also beg to remark, that they will be made of a beautiful metal, that will never require tinning; and the whole, though light in weight, will be extremely strong, and will last several years without needing repairs, or, at least, very trifling ones, that will not interfere with their use for a single day. They will take up but little room, and may be easily kept clean. No bricks are required, no chimney to be swept, and they can be as easily removed as any piece of furniture in your room."

"You are perfectly right; and I give you my candid opinion, they are the very stoves required for the purpose. I should like Dr. Mayne to see it; if you can, call as you go to the War Office, and show him the model. I can then speak with him upon the subject."

"With the greatest of pleasure."

As Dr. Mayne had not arrived when I called, I went and fetched a passport for myself, and one for my secretary. Upon my return, the doctor had examined the model, and seemed much pleased, saying-"It will answer very well." I left the address of the manufacturers with him, and then retired. They were immediately adopted both at Smyrna, and later at Rankioi.

A gentleman present, who seemed to have taken a great deal of interest in our descriptive conversation, followed me to the door, and, in a low voice, asked if I had taken out a patent.

"No, I have not; but I shall put my name and label upon them."

"Well, if you were to take out a patent, you would make a fortune."

"You may be right; but upon such an occasion I should fancy myself wrong. I will therefore give it, pro bono publico. I am well aware that by making it more complete I could take out either registration or patent, but I would not do that for the world; as it would be immediately reported that I expected to be repaid for my services by the profits of the patent of the stove, and upon these grounds I decline any such proceeding."

As it was then about three o'clock, I went, by appointment, to Sir Benjamin Hawes' office to bid that gentleman adieu, and to receive his final orders, showing him at the same time the model, which he seemed to appreciate thoroughly. He gave me the best advice, and promised me his powerful support throughout my culinary campaign. In return, I engaged to communicate all my movements, and retired.

At noon, next day, I again called at Stafford House, "not by appointment." On being informed of my visit, the Duchess at once favoured me with an audience. "I am come," said I, "to announce my departure. I wish, ere I leave to-morrow, to thank your Grace, and to show you the model of my new stove which I mean to introduce into the hospital kitchens."

"Ah!" exclaimed her Grace, "I must go and fetch the Duke. He will be highly pleased with it, and he wished very much to see you before your departure."

The Duke soon entered the great hall, with a large party, to whom I explained the principle, as I had before done to the Duke of Cambridge. I also stated that the day previous I had had the honour of showing it to Lord Panmure, and Mr. Brunel, the celebrated engineer, all of whom were much pleased with its efficacy, simplicity, and economy; more especially Mr. Brunel, who so highly appreciated the principle of its construction, that he at once adopted it, and applied it to the hospital kitchens at Smyrna and Rankioi, which he was there about to fit up.

The Duke made many remarks respecting the simplicity of its construction and the immense economy of fuel; "the transport of which," I observed, "was so extremely difficult and costly." I also remarked that one stove might be placed in a tent or hut containing fifty or sixty men; and they could cook there without the smallest inconvenience or difficulty, while it would throw out sufficient heat, "being in use nearly all day, viz., for breakfast, dinner, and tea," to warm the hut in winter, while in summer it might be turned out of doors.

Having been complimented by all present, I was about to retire, when the Duchess observed that she had written several letters of introduction for me. "Among the number," said her Grace, "you will find one for Miss Nightingale."

I returned my sincere thanks to all present, and in particular to the Duke and Duchess. I assured them that the kindness and great encouragement I had received from them would be for ever engraved in my memory. The Duke remarked that he was very glad to see me in such high spirits. I acknowledged this with a bow.

"But, Mr. Soyer, suppose you should be taken ill?" said the Duchess.

"Well, your Grace-cela est à la volonté de Dieu-at present I am happy to say I have not any fears on that head, and am quite resigned to whatever Providence may dictate. Once more I beg to reiterate my feelings of gratitude, and bid your Grace and your illustrious family adieu."

As it was nearly one o'clock, I called upon Mr. Ramsay, who had all my letters ready. He did me the honour to introduce me to General Vivian, of the Turkish Contingent, and his brother, Captain Ramsay, the general's aide-de-camp. Anticipating the pleasure of meeting those gentlemen in the East, I departed with the best wishes of all.

Mr. Ramsay gave me a letter for the Honourable Mrs. Herbert, to whom I was anxious to pay a visit, well aware of the important information I could gather from that benevolent lady, who was in constant communication with the hospitals in the East, and also with Miss Nightingale. I was very kindly received; but, instead of giving me an encouraging prospect of success, that lady very candidly informed me that the number of letters she daily received were most unsatisfactory, and that she did not think it possible for me to restore order in the cooking department at the great barrack hospital. "The difficulties you will encounter," said she, "are incalculable."

"So I anticipate," was my reply; "but I must observe, that I love difficulties, in order to surmount them. And with the power so graciously conferred upon me by Lord Panmure, I cannot fail to do some good, if my health does not fail me."

"I hope," said Mrs. Herbert, "you will succeed, and shall be happy to hear of an amelioration. When do you think of going?"

"To-morrow." Bidding her adieu, and thanking her for her kind reception, I retired.

On reaching home, I found the promised letters from Mr. Stafford, all my luggage packed, and was on the point of starting, when I learned that the gentleman who was going with me as secretary, and had his passport ready, declined to accompany me. His relations and friends had persuaded him not to go, the fever being so bad there, and so many deaths occurring daily. I was thus placed in an awkward position, and was, moreover, pestered at home by intrusive visitors, and no end of ridiculous letters. I thought of starting alone; but, upon reflection, I decided upon passing the evening at the Adelaide Hotel, at London Bridge, and in the morning looking out for another party; thus, to my great annoyance, losing another day. To start alone without a first-class companion for so long a journey was a sad affair. I must observe that I had previously engaged two young men, at high wages, as cooks, one of whom declined going to Scutari, but did not mind the Crimea; the other fell ill. Thus, my prospects on the eve of my departure were anything but favourable.

Next morning, while driving along Piccadilly, I met a friend, who, in congratulating me upon my proposed journey, and wishing me success in my undertaking, said, "So Mr. L-- is going with you as secretary, is he not?"

"No, he is not! he has left me in the lurch at the last minute; and, my dear fellow, I can tell you what, there is a chance for you-it is only for two or three months-you will be well paid, and all expenses defrayed."

"It is very kind of you to make me the offer," he replied; "but I cannot leave my business at a minute's notice. How long could you give me to prepare?"

"Oh! I am off this evening by the mail."

"I have no clothes ready for travelling."

"Never mind that; you can get all you require in Paris, where I shall remain two days upon business."

"Indeed! then in two hours I will give you a decided answer."

At the expiration of that time my friend made his appearance. We drew up an agreement, got his passport, and started the same evening; but not on the sly, as I had anticipated. Having forgotten to warn T. G. not to mention the fact of our intended journey, he had called upon several of his friends, with some of whom I was acquainted, and to my surprise, when I reached the station, I found about twenty assembled to bid us farewell. If I mention this circumstance, it is only to have an opportunity of publicly thanking those gentlemen for their hearty farewell, and three cheers-the echo of which still vibrates in my heart, and was through the whole of my culinary campaign a high source of gratification to my feelings. That night we slept at the Pavilion Hotel, Folkestone.