Make Your Own Hats

Equipment

Thimble

Thread

Needles

Tape-measure

Pins

Tailor's chalk or pencil

Milliner's pliers or wire cutters

Scissors, large and small

Paper for patterns

Thimble-good quality

Thread-Geneva lustre, black and white, number 36. Colored thread as needed.

Needles-assorted paper of milliner's needles, 8 to 10.

Tape-measure-of good quality sateen.

Tailor's chalk-white and dark blue.

Milliner's pliers-pliers which fit the hand, not too heavy, with blunt points, and sharp enough to cut a thread.

Materials used to make Hat Frames

Fabrics-

Buckram

Crinoline

Cape net

Neteen or Fly net

Willow plate

Wires-

Cable

Frame or brace wire

Lace

Tie

Ribbon

Sprung

Paper for patterns-

Heavy manila

Buckram-

Comes in black and white, about twenty-seven inches wide-a heavy stiff material, smooth on one side and rather rough on the other. It is more commonly used for hat foundations than any other fabric. There is also a summer buckram, lighter in weight and smooth on both sides.

Crinoline-

Comes in black and white, twenty-seven inches wide-a stiff, thin, open-meshed material, used to make soft hat frames, to cover wire frames, and in bias strips to cover edge wire after it is sewed on the fabric frame.

Neteen or fly net-

A stiff open-meshed material-comes in black, white, and ecru, one yard wide-a very popular material on account of its great pliability and lightness. It is used for blocking frames and copying, the lines being much softer than when made with buckram. Very durable.

Cape net-

A light-weight, open-meshed material used for blocking and for soft frames. Not as pliable as neteen.

Willow plate-

A coarse straw-like material, light in weight, brittle, and very expensive, used in blocking; frames are also made from it without blocking.

Must be dampened before using. Not recommended for amateurs.

Wire comes in black, white, silver, and gilt, and is covered with cotton, mercerized cotton, and silk. It may be procured in single and double bolts.

Cable-

Largest wire used in millinery. In making wire frames, it is used as edge wire and sometimes for the entire frame. Being larger than frame wire, it makes a pleasing effect when used as part of the wire frame design, if it is to be covered with sheer material.

Frame or brace wire-

Used in making frames and is sewed on the edge of all buckram and fabric hat frames.

Lace-

Smaller than frame wire, used for wiring lace ribbon and flowers, and sometimes for making an entire frame when a very dainty design is desired.

SHOWING SHAPED BRIM OF NETEEN WITH RIBBON-WIRE BRACES BASTED IN PLACE

Tie-

Smallest wire used in millinery; comes wound on spools. Is used to tie other wires, and in making hand-made flowers. Comes in black, white, and green.

Ribbon-

A cotton ribbon about three eighths of an inch wide, with a fine wire woven through the center, also a wire on each edge. Used to wire ribbons.

Sprung-

An uncovered steel wire used to make halo brims; is sometimes sewed on edge of buckram or other fabric brims, if the hat is unusually wide, or if a brim is to be especially stiff. It is occasionally used as an edge wire on wire frames.

Hat Frames of Fabric

Much care, thought, and patience must be exercised in making the frame of any hat. It is the foundation upon which we build, and if poorly made no amount of work can cover it up later. A hat must be right every step of the way. The frame is the first step, and so the most important.

The simplest hat to make is the straight brim sailor with a square crown, covered with velvet. Such a model we will take up at first.

Sailor hat frame-

For convenience we will use the following dimensions: Width of brim, three inches; height of crown, three and one-half inches; length of crown tip, eight and one-half inches; width of crown tip, six and one-half inches, and headsize, twenty-four inches.

Pattern for brim-

Cut from a piece of manila paper fourteen and one-half by fourteen and one-half inches the largest possible circle; the paper may be folded into halves, then quarters, then into eighths and creased.

A round brim will not be of equal width all around from headsize wire, because the headsize wire must be oval to fit the head. The front and back will both be about an inch narrower than the sides.

Headsize wire-

To measure-This is especially important, for upon the accuracy of this measurement depends the comfort of the wearer; this is the foundation wire. Pass a tape measure around the head over the hair where the hat is to rest and add two inches to this measure. One is for lapping the ends and the other inch is to allow for lining and covering of hat which goes up into the headsize.7-1

As our headsize measure is twenty-four inches long, cut a piece of frame wire twenty-six inches long; this allows for the two inches just mentioned. Lap the ends one inch and fasten each end with tie wire.7-2 Wire always laps one inch-no more, no less.

To shape-With the hands inside, pull the circle until it is elongated to fit the head. This headsize wire must not press unduly upon any part of the head.

To locate headsize on pattern-Lay pattern flat, pin headsize wire on pattern with joining at back crease in paper, having the back and front of brim of equal width, and the two sides of brim of equal width. Mark all around headsize wire with a pencil. Remove wire and cut paper one-half inch inside this mark.

To cut buckram brim-Lay pattern on smooth side of buckram, pin, and cut the edges very smoothly. Cut headsize same as pattern. Mark location of center back and center front. Remove pattern and with a hot iron press the buckram perfectly flat, being careful not to break or make a sharp bend in the buckram, for if once broken it cannot be satisfactorily repaired.

To sew headsize wire to brim-First note the relation of headsize wire to brim. If buckram is carefully cut, the wire may be pinned on one-half inch from edge. The brim has been cut round and will have the appearance of a round hat when worn and yet, on account of the oval headsize wire, the brim when finished will measure about three and one-half inches on each side and about two and one-half inches back and front. Pin wire on smooth side of buckram with lap at center back, also pin front and each side, being careful not to lose the shape of the headsize wire. Bring needle up from under side of brim close to wire, beginning at lap. Take stitch over wire to under side coming back through first stitch to right side. Take next stitch over wire one-fourth inch from first, coming back to right side. Repeat all the way around until lap is reached. Fasten thread by taking several stitches close together over ends of wire in order to join neatly and prevent their working loose. Slash buckram inside headsize wire every half inch and turn pieces up. This makes small flaps to which crown may be fastened later. The brim may now be tried on and changes made if necessary.

Edge wire-

This is cut from frame wire and must be long enough to reach around edge of brim and lap one inch. Edge wire is always sewed on same side of brim as the headsize wire, which is usually the smooth side. Shape this wire to conform to shape of brim. Never depend on the hat or the stitches to hold a wire in place. Begin at center-back of hat holding wire toward you, and sewing from right to left. Hold wire as near the edge as possible, without letting it slip over the edge. Sew on with overcasting stitch, taking two stitches in same hole. Take the stitches just the depth of the wire. If too shallow, the wire will slip off over the edge, or, if too deep, the wire will slip back away from the edge leaving it unprotected and liable to become broken and uneven-looking. A frame must be well made in every detail to produce satisfactory results when finished.

To cover edge wire-All edge wire must be covered with crinoline or a cheap muslin. Cut a strip of such goods on a true bias, three-eighths of an inch wide. Remove the selvage and stretch the strip. Bind the edge wire with it, holding it very tight. Sew close to wire using a stab stitch.

Right side-wrong side-

This stitch is made by taking a long stitch on right side and then a short back stitch on wrong side. Lap ends of crinoline one-fourth inch at finish, but do not turn ends under.

Square crown-

A square crown is one having a flat top, or one only slightly rounded, with the sides slightly sloping in towards the top. A crown of this type three or three and one-half inches in height would be at least one and one-half inches smaller at the top than at the bottom. Any crown made separately from the brim must be large enough to cover the headsize wire on the brim at the base. To eliminate any slashes or seams in the side crown, a paper pattern should be made. Following paragraphs explain how this is done.

Pattern for slanting side crown-

Cut a piece of manila paper one-fourth inch wider than crown height and one-half inch longer than headsize wire measure. Slash across this paper in four equally distant places, within one-fourth inch of edge of bottom, then lap slashes at top a little more than one-fourth inch, or about enough to take out about one and one-half inches. Pin slashes. Lap ends of paper one-fourth inch and pin together. Place this pattern on brim with joining at back and pin to upturned slashes on brim. Try on to see if any alterations are necessary. It can be decided at this point and changes made should the crown be too sloping or too straight. An amateur should try on a frame often in order to be assured of lines and curves that are becoming. Remove pattern from brim and cut off from top and bottom any irregularities on the edge.

To cut side crown from buckram-

Remove the pins from the seam, allowing pins in slashes to remain. Lay pattern flat on smooth side of buckram, lengthwise of the material to take advantage of the natural roll. Cut close to pattern; lap the ends one-fourth inch. Sew, using a fine back stitch close to each edge; this makes two rows of stitching. Sew a piece of frame wire to top and bottom of side crown, keeping all joining at back. Use same method as in sewing edge wire on brim. Cover both wires with crinoline.

Crown tips-

The top of the crown may be kept soft-looking or it may be made of buckram, producing a stiff effect. Both methods will be given.

Soft crown tip-First shape side crown to fit headsize wire on brim, which will be an ellipse. Cut piece of crinoline, the exact shape of the crown, plus one inch all around. Pin this over top, puffing it a very little, and sew with stab stitch close under wire. Cut surplus material off to one-fourth inch.

Stiff crown tip, made of buckram-Lay top of side crown on smooth side of buckram and mark the shape with a pencil. Cut buckram one-half inch outside of this mark. Next, in order to fold down this stiff crown tip, it will be necessary to cut, from this half-inch of buckram outside the pencil line, small wedge-like pieces, about one inch apart. Cut them close to the line drawn. Pin this piece on top of crown, press flaps down and sew on with stab stitch.

Crowns-

If a round crown is to be used it is advisable to buy a ten-cent separate crown or a frame with a round crown. If an entire frame is purchased, remove the crown and wire its bottom edge. After some skill has been acquired by the student of millinery, a round crown of fabric may be blocked by hand over a wire crown.

To cover round crown-

Pin material on top of crown with bias at front. Pull with the straight of the material and pin just below edge of curve. Sew one-half inch below this with stab stitch, trim material off close under this stitching. Remove pins. Fit a bias piece of material, using same method and measurements as for side crown of velvet sailor in chapter II. Sew the crown to brim before adjusting the side crown covering. Pull this bias piece over crown and pin smoothly in place. Finish top and bottom of this band by turning the edges over a wire. Use same stitch as in finishing edge of facing on brim.13-1 This makes a neat finish for a hat which will demand little trimming. If the amateur finds it too difficult to finish the bottom of a side crown in this way, the edge may be covered with a fold of material or a narrow ribbon; the top may also be finished by a narrow ribbon, but finishing neatly with a wire should be mastered if possible, as this style of finish is used in many places.

7-1 To cut wire see chapter IV.

7-2 To tie wire see chapter IV.

13-1 See chapter II.

* * *

Material required one and one-half yards milliner's velvet or any velvet eighteen to twenty-four inches wide. If velvet used is thirty-six inches wide, one yard will be sufficient.

To cover brim-

Place corner of velvet at front of brim on top side (smooth side). Edgewire and headsize wire should always be on top of brim. Turn velvet over edge of brim and pin. Stick pins through at right angles to brim to avoid marring the velvet. Pin closely all around edge of brim, pulling material with the thread to remove any fullness. Do not pull tight enough to bend the brim. Trim velvet off one-fourth inch to turn under brim. Baste close to headsize wire on top with stab stitch. Cut velvet out inside of headsize wire, leaving a half inch to slash and turn up with the buckram.

To sew velvet edge to brim-

This should be done with a close overcasting stitch on the under side, being careful not to prick through to the right side of the velvet. It is sometimes advisable in preparing the frame to stitch the buckram in from the edge about one-fourth inch with the sewing machine, using a long stitch. This stitching may then be used to put the needle through when sewing the velvet down. If the velvet seems thick and heavy-looking on under side after sewing, it may be pressed down with a hot iron. If done quickly and lightly, it will not show on the right side.

SHOWING METHOD OF FITTING FABRIC TO SHAPED BRIM

To face under side of brim-

Pin velvet on under side, using same method in pinning as that on top of brim. This must be pinned very carefully. Cut off velvet all around edge, leaving a little less than one-fourth inch to turn under. Facings are usually finished at the edge with a wire. Cut a piece of frame wire the exact circumference of the brim, plus one inch for lap. Bend to shape of brim and pin under edge of velvet, beginning at the center back. Roll velvet over wire and bring out to edge. Pin in place all the way around before beginning to sew. Place pins in at right angles to brim. A piece of velvet held in the left hand will prevent finger marks from showing on the velvet. Begin to sew at left of wire joining, while holding underside of brim towards you. Bring needle through from back close under wire. With the head of the needle press velvet along under wire to make a crease or sort of bed for the thread of the next stitch. Take nearly a half-inch stitch by placing needle close under the wire and coming through between the wire and the upper facing. Come back under the wire with a very small back stitch, being careful to adjust the wire as you sew, and to catch a little of the upper covering with each back stitch. When wire joining is reached, treat the lapped ends as one wire. Fasten ends securely by taking several small back stitches. Lace wire, being smaller than frame wire, is sometimes used to finish the edge of facing. It does not look as heavy, but is somewhat more difficult for a beginner to handle.

SHOWING UNDER FACING OF BRIM PINNED OVER WIRE READY TO SEW IN PLACE

To cover crown top-

To cover the top, cut a piece of velvet with the bias at the front, same shape as top of crown plus one inch all around. Gather one-fourth inch from edge, place over top, equalize the gathers, pin in place, and sew with stab stitch over line of gathering. Make the edge lie as flat as possible and do not draw velvet too tight across the top.

To cover side crown-

Cut a piece of velvet on a true bias two and one-half inches wider than height of crown. Pin this strip wrong side out around side crown to find length and to locate seam. Draw it snugly and pin seam on straight of material with warp thread. (Warp thread is parallel with selvage.) Remove velvet and stitch seam. Open it and press by drawing it over the edge of a hot iron.

To sew crown on brim-

The simplest way to proceed is to sew the crown on the brim before adjusting the side crown covering. Pin back, front, and each side of crown to brim, placing seams at back. Sew through upturned flaps of brim and crown one-fourth inch from bottom wire. Stretch the velvet strip for side crown on the crown, placing seam at back, unless trimming has been planned which will cover the seam better if it is placed at some other point. Turn top and bottom edges under to fit the side crown, and press bottom fold down close to brim. If this band has been fitted tight enough, it will not be found necessary to sew it.

Edge of brim facing, when finished without wire-

A brim covered with velvet or any fabric may also be finished underneath without a wire, the edges being slipstitched together. In this case, the underfacing would be turned under one-fourth inch and pinned in place all the way around before beginning to sew. Bring the needle through from underside of facing to the very edge of fold. Place point of needle directly opposite this stitch and take a small stitch in upper facing, then take a small stitch in underfacing. Each stitch always begins just opposite the ending of preceding stitch, so that the thread between the two facings crosses the seam at right angles to edge of brim. This method makes the work look smooth, and also it will not pull out of place; however, this style of finishing an edge is not popular and requires much practice.

To cover narrow brim sailor without an edge seam-

This method can be used satisfactorily only when the brim is narrow, and the fabric pliable. For convenience we will give measurements as for a two and one-half inch brim, flat sailor, outside edge measuring forty inches. Cut a bias piece of velvet forty inches long and seven inches wide. Fold this velvet through center lengthwise and stick pins every three inches through edge of fold at right angles to edge and close to edge. This is to mark the line that must be placed on the edge of the brim. If the velvet is not placed evenly, there will be found a greater amount of fullness on one side than on the other. Place velvet over the brim and pin on edge at points marked by pins. Stretch as tight as possible. On a brim of this width all of the fullness should be worked out. If this is found to be very difficult, lay the brim aside, with the velvet pinned on, for an hour or for overnight, and the velvet will be found to give a little more. Remove as much of the length as possible. Locate seam, remove from frame, sew seam, and replace as before. Sew on top close to headsize wire, working out all the fullness possible; pull under part up into headsize. Sew one-fourth inch above headsize wire onto the flaps, being careful not to pull the thread too tight or the headsize wire will be reduced in size.

Facings-

A pleasing variety is sometimes obtained by using a colored underfacing on a black hat. The entire facing may be of a contrasting color or extend only from headsize wire to within an inch of the edge of the brim. In this case there could be a strip of material the same as upper facing an inch and a half wide finished at the edge of the brim with a wire. Then the colored facing would be finished over the edge of this with another wire.

Brims covered with two kinds of fabric-

A flat brim or mushroom shape is often covered by using two fabrics, which may be of the same color or of contrasting colors. Small pieces of old material may often be conserved in this manner and the hat at the same time have much charm. For instance, the edge of the hat could have a bias band of satin, two or more inches wide, stretched around the edge of the brim, with the rest of the brim covered with velvet overlapping the satin and finished with a wire both on top and bottom, or only on one side. Underside of brim may be finished the same way, or the facing may be brought out even with the edge and finished with a wire.

Shaped brim foundation-

The simplest shaped brim is the mushroom style.

To make pattern for brim-

Make a paper pattern the same as for the straight brim sailor. Measure the same for the headsize wire, join ends of wire, shape to fit the head, and pin on paper pattern of any desired width. To make the brim droop, slash the pattern from the edge to the headsize wire in four different places equally distant. Lap these slashes one-fourth inch at the edge, and pin. The pattern may also be slashed in eight or more different places if desired, the slashes being adjusted by lapping more or less according to the amount of droop which may be becoming.

After the pattern is adjusted satisfactorily, mark with a pencil all around just inside the headsize wire. Remove the wire and cut the paper on this line. Cut pattern in two at back and lay out flat on smooth side of buckram, leaving pins in slashes. Cut close to outside edge and allow one-fourth inch for the lap at ends. Mark on buckram with pencil close to headsize line and cut one-half inch inside this mark. Lap ends one-fourth inch and backstitch closely at each edge of flap. Sew a strip of crinoline flat over seam to smooth it up. Sew headsize wire on place marked, which will be one-half inch from inside edge. Keep all joinings at back. Slash buckram from inside edge to headsize wire every half inch. Wire edge of brim and cover wire with crinoline-same method as used on sailor brim.

To cover a mushroom-shaped brim-

If not very drooping, it may be covered without making a seam in the material. To do this, begin by placing the corner of the fabric on top at the front of the brim. Pin the front, back, and each side, always pulling with the thread of the material, and pin closely at edge, with pins at right angles to the brim. If covered with georgette, satin or silk, which is pliable, the fullness may all be worked out without a seam. Baste close to headsize wire and finish edge by following same method as used in finishing sailor brim. Also follow same method with facing. If the material used is not pliable, or if the brim is too drooping to admit of stretching the material smoothly, a seam must be made at the back. The method would be the same as used in covering the rolled brim.

Sheer materials-

In covering with anything as sheer as georgette, it is advisable to line with some other material first. The color could be made deeper by using a lining of the same color, or made paler by lining with white. The lining should be fitted and sewed on with the outside material.

Pattern for hat with rolled or close-fitting brim-

The pattern for any hat is first cut from a flat piece of paper. The headsize is marked as for flat sailor and the headsize wire pinned on. The pattern is then slashed in to headsize wire from the outside edge, the slashes lapped over and pinned. If the hat is to be rolled more closely on one side than on the other, the greater number of slashes must be placed there. In this way the pattern can be adjusted to any desired shape. It is an advantage sometimes to cut the paper pattern through in the back, leaving pins in the slashes, and lay out flat on another piece of paper for a new pattern. This eliminates some of the slashes and makes further experiments easier. Pattern-making is very important, and it is of extreme value to make as many patterns as possible before cutting the foundation fabric. Changing a pattern the slightest sometimes makes a great deal of difference in its becomingness. Of course a brim may be changed by adding a slash or two in the buckram, or by inserting a V shape to give more flare, but the fewer seams the better for the hat frame. A rolled or close-fitting brim is more difficult to cover than a sailor or mushroom shape.

To cover a close-fitting or rolled brim-

Place corner of material on top of brim at front and pin on the edge. Always use the same method of pinning on the edge as given in the first lesson. Draw the material down to the headsize wire and pin. Work the material out smoothly toward the left and pin at the edge; also at the headsize wire. Then proceed in the same way toward the right, always pinning closely. Be sure to keep the material tight and smooth both at edge and at the headsize wire. Allow the fullness to go where it will. The seam should be located at the center back. Cut away all superfluous material, allowing three-eighths of an inch seam at the center back. Turn the raw edges under away from each other at the seam and slipstitch together neatly.

To slipstitch seam-

Bring needle through edge of fold on one side and enter the needle through edge of fold on other side exactly opposite. Slip needle along in this fold one-eighth of an inch, then bring the needle through to the edge of the fold and take a stitch one-eighth of an inch long in the fold of the other side, always being careful to begin the stitch exactly opposite the end of the one preceding. Try to cut the material out from inside the headsize wire in one piece so that it may be used for something else. Examine the material carefully to make sure that it fits perfectly. Baste with a stab stitch close to the headsize wire on the outside; remove all pins as soon as possible. After basting this, you will sometimes find that the material needs a little more adjusting at the edge. Turn the velvet over the edge one-fourth inch and sew down with an overcasting stitch.

To glue velvet to the brim-

When there is a decided roll to a brim, it is sometimes most difficult to keep the velvet smooth and to make it lie close to the brim, so we resort to milliner's glue. Do not use glue on satin, or on any fabric thinner than velvet, or on any frame other than buckram. Care should always be taken to have the smooth side of the buckram on top when the velvet is to be glued on.

After fitting the velvet carefully and sewing the seam in the back, remove the pins from the outer edge and gather the velvet up inside the headsize where it is to be held while the glue is being spread on the buckram. The glue must be spread very evenly. It will make a neater job to glue the seam of the velvet open before going further. Be very careful to keep the glue away from the right side of the velvet. Next, rub the glue on the frame with a stiff brush until it is smooth, then spread the velvet back into place, pressing and smoothing it with the hands from the headsize wire out. Watch it carefully for any places which have not sufficient glue, as the material may be raised before it is dry and more glue added. Do not sew the edge until the glue has dried. Usually it is only the material on the upper side of the brim which needs gluing down. The facing may be put on as desired. Sometimes the top of a crown has indentations, and then the velvet may be glued to stay in place.

The under or outer facing may be fitted to a rolled or close-fitting brim more easily than the upper. Beginning at the front with the corner of the material, pin at the edge and at the headsize wire. Keep the material smooth; work from right to left, and then from left to right. Work the material around to where the seam is to be made. Cut away all superfluous material, allowing three-eighths of an inch for a seam. Slipstitch together as on the top and finish the edge over wire. Whenever possible a seam should be made on the straight of the material.

A shirred crown of fabric-

There are two methods of making a shirred crown of fabric in which taffeta, satin, georgette, or velvet may be used. Velvet is especially beautiful made up in this way. The first method is the preferred. Cut a circular piece of material, having a diameter the length of the crown from front to back, measuring over the top from the headsize wire, plus four inches.

On the wrong side of the material mark circles (concentric) one-half inch apart, after first having marked a circle in the center about three inches in diameter. Gather on the line of each circle with a fine running stitch and bring the thread through to the right side as each circle is completed.

Locate the exact center of the crown top and cut a small hole at this point. Pull thread of the smallest circle up tight. This will form a bag which should be pulled down through the hole made at the center of the crown top and sewed securely in place. The material should be pinned down at four equal points at the edge of the crown, the threads of the other circles pulled up until the material fits the crown snugly. Adjust the fullness evenly and sew in place. This is an excellent way to use up old material which would otherwise show marks or any other defects.

The second method does not make as pleasing an effect, but may be used when the material happens to be in such shape that a circle cannot be cut from it. A bias strip about eight inches wide and long enough to reach around the crown, plus three or four inches, should be joined on the lengthwise thread of the material. The first shirring or gathering should be one-half inch from the edge, the additional threads should be run in evenly every half inch. The first thread near the edge should then be drawn up as tightly as possible and this edge pushed through the hole in the top of the crown. This method will require a somewhat larger opening than the first. The material is then drawn down on the outside and pinned to the bottom of the crown; the threads are then pulled tight and firm and are fastened off. Next adjust the gathers evenly and sew in place.

* * *

Lay the pattern on the neteen in such a way as to bring the bias where the greatest amount of roll is to be, then cut making the same allowances as if cut from buckram. This material should be used double to secure the best results. Cut one thickness first and pin this on another piece in such a way that the warp thread of one piece will lie parallel to the woof thread of the other. Cut the two pieces the same size and before removing the pins baste closely all over the brim with fine thread, making one inch stitches.

Fine thread should be used for this as a coarse thread might show through the covering.

To join the seam in the back-

Insert one thickness between the other two ends, and backstitch closely. This method ought to make a fairly smooth seam. Cover the seam with a strip of crinoline to smooth it up.

To sew edge wire on neteen-

It is difficult to sew edge wire on neteen. A good result is obtained, however, by sewing the wire directly on the edge or by covering the edge first with crinoline and sewing the wire on it. Great care must be taken in handling neteen to preserve the shape, as it is very easily stretched and pulled out of shape while sewing on the edge wire. The same method is used in covering a neteen frame as with the buckram frame. The velvet, if velvet is used, can be glued on, but the material is so porous that it is not very satisfactory. Neteen and crinoline make excellent foundations for braid hats, as these materials are light in weight, soft, and pliable. They are also very satisfactory for children's hats.

To make a turban frame of neteen or crinoline-

Make the side crown from a bias fold of neteen or crinoline, the height desired, plus one inch. The length should be the headsize measurement plus one-half inch. This allows for a tiny flare next to the face which is usually more becoming. Join the ends of bias strips on the warp thread.

To wire turban flare-

Sew the headsize wire one inch from the bottom, being careful not to stretch or full the material. Cut another piece of brace wire one or two inches larger than headsize wire and sew on the raw edge at the bottom, stretching the fabric to fit if a flare is desired. A roll may be made by slightly fulling the fabric on to the wire, which must be smaller than for a flare. If the side of the crown is to be curved in slightly, this is easily done by taping the side about halfway between the top and the bottom, drawing the tape as tight as is necessary. Next pin the tape and sew in place. Sew another wire high enough above the tape to make the crown the required height. If the crown is to be flared a little at top, sew the wire inside and stretch the material as much as desired. If the top of the crown is to be drawn in, sew the wire on the outside, making the crown slightly smaller at the top. If sufficient material is allowed at the top the extra amount may be drawn up over a small circle of wire to make the crown top, but an extra piece cut for this purpose is more satisfactory. A smooth crown may be made from an extra piece sewed over the top after the side is finished.

Covering turbans-

Turbans are becoming to many types and are particularly suitable for the matron. Gay coverings are used on them often when they would be out of place on a larger hat. However, any material may be used; braids, alone or in combination with fabric. Velvets, georgette, satin, and taffeta are used. A turban covered entirely with flowers sewed down flat makes a charming hat: the lower edge invariably looks better if first bound with a bias piece of velvet no matter what the covering may be-it seems to give a softer look around the face. A round crown of buckram makes a good turban frame if a bias strip of crinoline an inch wide is sewed to the lower edge to give a little flare. A frame of this kind may be draped with velvet, satin, georgette, or any pliable material, and when skillfully done the effect is beautiful indeed.

* * *