Journal of a Voyage from Okkak, on the Coast of Labrador, to Ungava Bay, Westward of Cape Chudleigh

Outfit. Opinions of the Esquimaux respecting the Voyage. Description of the Company. Departure from Okkak. Arrival at Nungorome.

JUNE 16, 1811.-THE ice began to loosen in the bay of OKKAK, and to drive out to sea. On the 17th, the bay was quite cleared of it; but on the 18th, it returned, and seemed to preclude all possibility of setting out so soon as we intended. On the 19th, however, it left us entirely.

20th. We were employed in hauling the boat to the edge of the water, and being floated by the tide, she came to anchor at six, P.M. She had been purchased by Jonathan, at Chateau-bay, and was about 45 feet long, twelve broad, and five deep, with two masts. We had furnished her with a complete deck, and divided her into three parts. The centre was our own cabin, into which all our baggage was stowed: the two other divisions were occupied by the Esquimaux. A small boat, brought from Lewis, was taken in tow.

21st. We began to ship our provision and baggage: viz. six cwt. of ship's biscuit, sixteen bushels of pease, one cwt. of salt pork and best beef, (of which but a small portion was consumed, as we were generally well supplied with fresh provisions, procured by shooting), a firkin of butter, half cwt. of captain's biscuit, one cwt. of flour, two small barrels of gunpowder, one cwt. of large and small shot, half cwt. of tobacco, two eighteen-gallon barrels of ale, a few bottles of brandy, eighteen pounds of coffee, which was all consumed, coffee and biscuits being our usual repast; a case containing knives, wire, nails, &c. for barter, if necessary; kettles and other utensils. Besides that every man had his fowling-piece, we had four muskets in reserve. After bringing all on board, we had just room enough to sleep in our cabin.

22d, was spent in conferring with our brethren, on various subjects relating to the voyage.

23d. All the Esquimaux met at the chapel, and in the most affectionate manner, and with many tears, bid us and our company farewell. They were the more affected with grief on this occasion, as the greatest part of our own Esquimaux thought the voyage impracticable, and expected that we should all perish in doubling Cape Chudleigh, (Killinek) on account of the violence of the currents, setting round between the cape, and the many rocks and islands which stretch from it towards the north. Reports had likewise been circulated of the hostile disposition of the Esquimaux in the Ungava bay; and it was boldly asserted, that if we even got there alive, we should never return. An old conjuror, (Angekok), Atsugarsuk, had been particularly active in spreading these reports. We cannot deny but that they occasioned some apprehension in our own minds, but being fully determined to venture in the name of God, and trusting in His protection, we were thankful that they failed to produce the intended effect on Jonathan, our guide, and on the other Esquimaux, who were to go with us, and who all remained firm.

When Jonathan was told that the Ungava Esquimaux would kill him, he generally answered: "Well, we will try, and shall know better when we get there:" and once, conversing with us on the subject, expressed himself thus: "When I hear people talking about the danger of being killed, I think: Jesus went to death out of love to us, what great matter would it be, if we were to be put to death in His service, should that be His good pleasure concerning us."

24th. Having commended ourselves in prayer to the grace and protecting care of God our Saviour, and to the kind remembrance of our dear fellow missionaries, we set sail at two P.M.

Our company consisted of four Esquimaux families: 1. Jonathan, and his wife Sybilla, both between fifty and sixty years old. He was esteemed one of the most skilful commanders on the whole coast of Labrador, and for many years has shown himself both able and willing to serve the missionaries in a variety of ways. The boat was his own property, and we considered him as the captain of the expedition. 2. Jonas, Jonathan's son, and his wife Agnes, about thirty years of age, both intelligent, clever Esquimaux; they had their five children with them; Sophia, twelve years old, Susanna, Jonathan, Thamar, and Sybilla, the youngest but half a year old. 3. Paul, and his wife Mary, very agreeable, sensible people, about twenty years of age. Paul is Jonathan's cousin, and a man of a very warm temper. In activity and skill, he was next to Jonathan. 4. David, and his mother Rachel, the first a hopeful young man of about twenty, and the latter a good-natured old woman, who had the care of our clothes and linen, and kept them clean and in good order. Besides these four families, we took with us a boy, Okkiksuk, an orphan, about sixteen, whom Jonathan had adopted, and who promised to reward the kindness of his guardian by his good behaviour. He was always ready to render us every service in his power.

We were attended on the voyage by a skin-boat (or woman's boat) in which were Thukkekina and his wife, and their adopted child Mammak, a boy twelve years old. Their age is about forty. The skin-boat was intended as a refuge, in case of any accident happening to our own boat, and was useful in landing, as we never brought the large boat close in shore. The first four families belong to Hopedale, Thukkekina and his wife to Okkak. They considered it as a great favour conferred on them to be permitted to accompany us. Jonas and his family occupied the after-part, and the rest the fore-part of the boat. The wind was moderate, and due west. We lost sight of our habitations in about half an hour, behind the N.E. point of the island Okkak, called Sungolik.

At three, passed Cape Uivak, a cape on the continent, forming a moderately high headland, and the nearest place to Okkak, where Esquimaux spend the winter. Two or three winter-houses were standing.

The wind failing, we cast off the skin-boat, which rowed merrily a-head. Before us, between the islands to the east and the continent, we saw much drift-ice, and it required attention to avoid the large shoals, the wind coming round to the N.W. We cast anchor at NUNGOROME, a cove about ten English miles from Okkak, where we found several of our Esquimaux, who had here their summer-station. Several had come from Naujasiorvik and other places, on purpose to meet us, and once more to express their affection and best wishes for our safe voyage and return. Late in the evening, we met on a green spot, where Brother Kohlmeister delivered a short discourse and prayer, after which we retired to sleep on board the boat.

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Departure from Nungorome Cove. Account of Solomon. Drift-ice. Cape Mugford. Waterfalls from the Kaumayok Mountains. Fruitless attempt to get out of the Ikkerasak, or Straits.

NUNGOROME is a cove on the south side of the Island Pacharvik. Between this island the main land is a narrow strait, so shallow that no whales can pass. The Esquimaux stretch their nets across, to catch seals, seeking shelter in it when the wind sets in from the open sea. They can only be taken in the night, and the greater part of those which frequent this coast are of the Kairolik kind, a middle-sized animal, and of the Ugsuk, the largest species of the seal tribe, weighing sometimes from five to six cwt.

The Esquimaux belonging to our congregation, who were at present stationed here, in tents, were Moses, Samuel, Thomas, Isaac, Bammiuk, and their families. Solomon, who has left our communion, was also here. He had formerly been a communicant member of Okkak congregation, but could not resist the temptation of going to the north to feast with the heathen Esquimaux, whenever they had caught a live, or found a dead whale. On such occasions he was seduced to commit many irregularities and sins, but always returned to us with a show of great contrition and repentance. After many relapses, he was informed, that this would do no longer, but that if he went again to these heathenish feasts, he would be excluded. He is a sensible, well-disposed man, and perceived the justice of the sentence; but his love of that species of amusement overcame all his good resolutions. He not only went again, but took also another wife; a step which, of course, excluded him from our fellowship. Yet he is very desirous that his children may receive a Christian education, and remain faithful to the precepts of the gospel.

25th. Brother Kmoch rose at half past one in the morning, and suffering the rest to sleep on, got breakfast ready; he then fired his piece, by which Brother Kohlmeister and all the Esquimaux, young and old, were suddenly roused from their slumbers. Not one, however, regretted the unexpected interruption to their pleasant dreams, on beholding the sea quite free from ice, with a fine morning and fair wind; but after yawning, stretching, and shaking themselves as usual, the Esquimaux with great good humour got ready, and we set sail at half past three. Passed Pacharvik Island at four. Bammiuk and Solomon accompanied us as far as the North Ikkerasak (the Esquimaux name for a strait) between Cape Mugford Island, in 58° N. latitude, and the mountains of Kaumayok. Their being in company retarded our progress, but in the sequel proved no disadvantage.

About nine, we entered the straits, and perceiving at a distance much drift-ice a-head, cast anchor, and Brother Kmoch and Jonas landed on Cape Mugford Island. An Esquimaux, called Niakungetok, accompanied them to the top of an eminence, from whence the outer opening of the Ikkerasak was seen. They perceived the ice driving into it from the sea in such quantities as to threaten to close it up. Cape Mugford is an high island, extending far into the ocean, and the northern land-mark in steering for Okkak, Kiglapeit promontory bearing south, and the Saddle-island appearing right before the entrance of the bay. On their return to the boat, the wind veered to the north, and we steered for a dwelling-place of the Esquimaux, about twenty miles from Okkak, called Ukkuararsuk. To our great joy the ice began now to drive out again to sea, and we resolved to go with it. A gentle S.W. wind brought us to the place, where we had before anchored, but we were now beset with large fields of ice, among which we tacked, till we had nearly cleared the straits, when the great quantity of surrounding ice, pressing upon us, prevented our making further attempts, and we, were compelled to work our way back with oars and boat-hooks.

On Cape Mugford island we now discovered more Esquimaux, who by signs directed our course towards a convenient harbour, near their dwellings, which we reached in safety.

The Esquimaux pitched their tents on shore, but we slept on board.

The situation of this place is remarkably beautiful. The strait is about an English mile broad, and four or five in length. Both shores are lined with precipitous rocks, which in many places rise to a tremendous height, particularly on the Kaumayok side, from whence several waterfalls rush into the sea, with a roar, which quite fills the air. The singular appearance of these cataracts is greatly increased when illuminated by the rising sun, the spray, exhibiting the most beautiful prismatic colours. Below them huge masses of ice are formed, which seem to lean against the sides of the rocks, and to be continually increasing during the winter, but when melted by the power of a summer's sun, and disengaged by their weight, are carried off by the tides, and help to form floating ice-mountains. The coast lies S.W. by N.E.

26th. Being detained here by the state of the ice, and the weather fine and warm, Brother Kmoch and Ogiksuk rowed across the straits to the nearest great cataract, and were able, notwithstanding the steepness of the ascent, to get pretty close to it. It falls fifty or sixty feet perpendicular, and the noise is terrible. The spray ascending from it, like the steam of a huge cauldron, wetted the travellers completely. They amused themselves some time by rolling large stones into the fall, which by its force were carried along towards the sea, down the sloping torrent below. Our people meanwhile caught three seals, and made a hearty meal, of which we also partook, hunger, on this occasion, overcoming our dislike to seal's flesh. A sallad of scurvy-grass was made for supper.

27th. We left this harbour about four A.M. with a favourable wind at West, but as it soon died away, we took to our oars, and reached the north point of Kaumayok, at the northern extremity of the strait. By an observation taken by Brother Kohlmeister, this point is situated in 57° 59' N. latitude. Though calm, there was a great swell from the sea, and the rolling of the boat affected our brave captain not a little, to the diversion of the other Esquimaux. About two P.M. the wind shifted to the N.W. By tacking we got to Kupperlik, about the middle of Kaumayok, but having the skin-boat in tow, could not weather the point, and were at length obliged to return to our former anchorage in the strait.

28th. The wind being North we could not proceed. We therefore ascended the mountain of Cape Mugford. It is a barren rock, though here and there a solitary plant or a tuft of moss clings to its steep sides, and is difficult of access. The numerous waterfalls on the Kaumayok, which still rose above us, were full in view, and we now discovered several small lakes which supply them. Some of them fall from a great height perpendicularly into the sea.

We could here discern the island of Okkak, to the S.W. to the East, the boundless ocean, and to the N.E. three high, barren, and steep islands, called Nennoktuts by the Esquimaux, (White mountains.)

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Quit the Ikkerasak. Account of the Kaumayok Mountains, and of Kangertluksoak. Public Worship on Sunday. Saeglek and its Inhabitants described. The Missionaries visit the Esquimaux at Kikkertarsoak.

JUNE 29th.-WE rose soon after two o'clock, and rowed out of the Ikkerasak, with a fair wind. The sea was perfectly calm and smooth. Brother Kmoch rowed in the small boat along the foot of the mountains of Kaumayok, sometimes going on shore, while the large boat was making but little way, keeping out at some distance, to avoid the rocks. The outline of this chain of mountains exhibits the most fanciful figures. At various points, the rocks descend abruptly into the sea, presenting horrid precipices. The strand is covered with a black sand. At the height of about fifty feet from the sea, the rocks have veins of red, yellow, and green stone, running horizontally and parallel; and sometimes in an undulated form. Above these, they present the appearance of a magnificent colonade, or rather of buttresses, supporting a gothic building, varying in height and thickness, and here and there intersected by wide and deep chasms and glens, running far inland between the mountains. Loose stones above, have in some places the appearance of statues, and the superior region exhibits all kind of grotesque shapes. It is by far the most singular and picturesque chain of mountains on this coast. To the highest part of it we gave the name of St. Pauls, as it is not unlike that cathedral when viewed at a distance, with its dome and two towers.

Before we left the Kaumayok, Brother Kohlmeister landed, and found the beach covered with blocks of stone, in colour white and grey, like statuary marble, but very hard. We now steered for Kangertluksoak, a winter-station of the Esquimaux, where several of our people had pitched their tents.

At noon, we were off an island, called Eingosiarsuk, (the Little Cup), opposite the Ittiplek, (a flat piece of ground joining two headlands) over which the northern Esquimaux pass in sledges to Okkak, round Kaumayok. Farther towards the N.W. lies Tuppertalik, a high ridge of mountains, which, from its appearance, we called the Table mountain, having nearly the shape of the mountain so called at the Cape of Good Hope.

To the north lies Nellekartok, the outermost island on leaving the Ikkerasak, and the first of the Kangertluksoak islands. Behind Tuppertalik, a bay opens called Nappartok (a wood), a winter-habitation, with a little wood higher up the country, about eight or ten hours drive from Okkak. A good harbour for large vessels is said to be here, called Umiakovitannak, (Broad boat-harbour). Before the entrance to Nappartok, lies an island, Naujartsit (the Little Sea-gull island). Seven or eight miles, north of Nappertok, a long flat point runs out, terminated by a small island. On approaching towards Kangertluksoak, a long island runs parallel with the coast called Illuektulik, (a burial-place), between which and the main land is a strait, affording good shelter for boats. Into this Jonathan intended to run, but the wind being favourable, we kept on our course, and passed two islands, Kingmiktok, (Dog island), and farther north, Kikkertarsoak a great island which defends the entrance into the harbour of Kangertluksoak, from the sea. At ten P.M. we came to an anchor in the harbour, and were received by our Esquimaux, of whom several families were stationed here, as well as by the other inhabitants, with demonstrations of great joy. Both the heathen who kept on the right side of the great bay, and our own Christian Esquimaux, on the left, fired numberless shots to welcome us. Several boats were here from Kittinek and Nachvak bound to Okkak.

Kangertluksoak lies about sixty miles north of Okkak, is an agreeable place, and has a good strand, and safe anchorage.

30th. Being Sunday, the Missionaries went on shore, and visited all the Christian families, by whom they were received with the most lively expressions of affection and gratitude. Many strangers from the opposite coast had joined them, and they all seated themselves in a large circle on the grass.

Nikupsuk's wife, Louisa, who had long ago forsaken the believers, was here, and said, with much apparent contrition, that she was unworthy to be numbered with them. She then seated herself at a little distance from the rest.

The number of the congregation, including our boat's company, amounted to about fifty. Brother Kohlmeister first addressed them, by greeting them from their brethren at Okkak, and expressing our joy at finding them well in health, and our hopes, that they were all walking worthy of their Christian profession, as a good example to their heathen neighbours. Then the Litany was read, and a spirit of true devotion pervaded the whole assembly.

Our very hearts rejoiced in this place, which had but lately been a den of murderers, dedicated, as it were, by the angekoks, or sorcerers, to the service of the devil, to hear the cheerful voices of converted heathen, most melodiously sounding forth the praises of God, and giving glory to the name of Jesus their Redeemer. Peace, and cheerful countenances dwelt in the tents of the believing Esquimaux.

Our people had caught a large white-fish, and pressed us much to be their guests, which we should have accepted of with pleasure, but we thought it prudent to avail ourselves of the favourable wind and weather, to proceed. Instead, therefore, of dining with them, we presented to each tent a quart of pease, which is considered by the Esquimaux as a great luxury, and was received with unbounded thankfulness.

About noon we set sail, with a brisk wind at S.E. for Saeglek. The coast presents here, moderately high, barren mountains, without bays or islands. The wind becoming more violent, the rope, by which we kept the skin-boat in tow, suddenly snapt, and set her adrift. She was frequently hid from our view by the height of the waves, but we were in no apprehension about her, as these kind of boats are much safer in a high sea, than a European one.

At seven P.M. we arrived at Saeglek, and were saluted by the firing of muskets and bonfires on the hills. The Esquimaux have their dwellings on a small flat island, between two of larger size, but the strand is bad, and full of sharp shingles. There are about five or six winter-houses at Saeglek, containing each about two or three families.

July 1st. Early, two Esquimaux men, Joas and Uiverunna, came in their kayaks to pay us a visit. They, with their families, inhabited some tents we had seen yesterday. Brother Kohlmeister spoke seriously to them on the necessity of conversion, especially to Joas, who had Christian parents, and as a child, was baptized at Okkak. He reminded him of his having been devoted to Jesus from his birth; that he therefore ought not to belong to the unbelievers, but to Him who had created and redeemed him; and that the greatest of all the sins he now committed, was his persisting in his determination not to return. He seemed to listen with some humility to the loving and earnest reproof and exhortations of the Missionary, but at last excused himself by laying the blame upon his mother, who kept him back, adding, that he still intended to be converted.

Our people had meanwhile made a fire, and put the pot on to boil pease; but the wind changing, Jonathan determined immediately to proceed. The pease had just begun to swell, and as the two Esquimaux had presented us with some fresh meat, they had been asked to partake of our meal; but finding themselves thus disappointed, they fell to, and having greedily devoured a quantity of the half-boiled pease, and filled their gloves with the rest, they took leave, and set sail about 11, A.M.

Hearing from some Esquimaux who made towards us in their kayaks, that the Saeglek people were all on the north side of the island of Kikkertarsoak, we proceeded thither, and having doubled the point, saw seven tents full of people. Two of them contained families from Killinek. But the violence of the wind was such, that we could not stay in this unsheltered place with safety. We therefore worked our way, with the help of the Esquimaux, round another point, into a roadstead, rather more sheltered than the former, though open to the sea. A little tobacco is the reward expected and given for such assistance.

The beach is composed of numberless black pebbles, polished by the sea, and each about the size of an hen's egg.

Brother Kohlmeister immediately landed, and visited the Esquimaux in their tents. Many heathen were at this place, to whom he preached the gospel, and invited them to believe in Jesus, as the Saviour of men, who would deliver them from the love, power, and curse of sin, having shed His blood, and died on the cross, to redeem their souls. He was heard with great attention. A venerable old man, with hair as white as wool, particularly attracted our notice. He called Brother Kohlmeister by name, took hold of both his hands, and begged him to sit down by him. Brother Kohlmeister inquired, whether he knew him. The old man replied: "Thou art Benjamin, often have I heard thy name at Okkak. I therefore rejoice to see thee." He seemed quite at a loss, what way to express his affection; and at length delivered a strap of seals'-leather to Mr. Kohlmeister, with these words: "I am poor, and have nothing else to give thee, yet I wish to give thee some token of my love." Brother Kohlmeister accepted of his present, and inwardly cried to the Lord, to show mercy to this poor ignorant heathen. "You are old," said he, "and have not much more time to live in this world, will you not turn to that Jesus, who has died for your sins also? It is not His desire that you should perish, and be lost in everlasting darkness, but that you should live with Him in the place of light and immortal bliss." The old man replied: "What shall I do? thy words are very pleasant, and I would fain hear much more of Jesus. I do not wish to be lost in the place of darkness." Brother Kohlmeister answered, that if he sincerely wished to be saved, and was troubled on account of his sinful life he should believe in, and call on the name of Jesus, who would certainly hear and reveal Himself unto him. Many people were present in the tent, who behaved with great decency, and whom Brother Kohlmeister earnestly addressed on the necessity of conversion. He wished to prolong the conversation especially with the old man, who promised, that he would never forget the words spoken to him, but it was growing late, and we returned to our cabin. The poor old man having sore legs, some medicine was left for him.

The passage from Kangertluksoak to Saeglek is about twenty English miles. Saeglek is a considerable promontory, open to the south.

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