Gardening for Little Girls

First Steps Toward a Garden

And because the breath of flowers is far sweeter in the air (where it comes and goes, like the warbling of music) than in the hand, therefore nothing is more fit for that delight than to know what be the flowers and plants that do best perfume the air.

-Bacon.

If you want a flower garden, you can begin work as early as March. Does that sound strange,-with cold winds and occasional snow? Ah, but the plans should all be laid then, and many things started in the house.

Four steps must be taken before starting actual work:

First.-Find out what space you can have for your garden.

Second.-Consider the soil, situation, surroundings.

Third.-Make a list of seeds, bulbs, etc., desired.

Fourth.-Decide on planting with view to height and color.

As to the first step, find out positively where you can have your garden. It makes considerable difference whether you can have the whole back yard, a plot along the walk, a round bed in the center of the lawn (only worse than none at all!), or a window-box. You can not very well decide on a single plant until this is settled.

As to the second step, learn all you can about the soil, situation, surroundings. Is your ground rich or poor? If light and sandy, you can grow such flowers as nasturtiums and mignonette. By adding fertilizer you can have poppies, roses, and dahlias. If the ground is heavy and stiff with clay, you can still have your roses and dahlias if you will add both manure and sand. So find out what kind of earth you are going to work with. Quite poor soil will grow sweet alyssum, California poppies, coreopsis and geraniums, while rich soil is needed for asters, larkspur, zinnias and marigolds. And think about your location (a dry spot being necessary for portulaca, and a cool, moist place for lily-of-the-valley), as well as bear in mind whether your garden is sheltered and warm or exposed to the chilly winds. Any desert can be made to blossom as the rose,-if you only know how.

As to the third step, make the list of the seeds, bulbs, etc., that you would like, with the idea of having some flowers in bloom the whole summer long. If you are lucky enough to have a kind friend or neighbor give you of her store, they will probably be good and come up as they should. If you have to buy, though, be sure to go to a first-class, reliable dealer, for you don't want to waste your time and money on old things that won't grow.

Then last of all, decide on your planting from this list with a view to height and color, so that you will arrange to the best advantage,-the nasturtiums which climb, for instance, going to the back of the bed against wall or trellis, while the dwarf variety should be at the front.

BIG WORDS FOR COMMON THINGS

To select your flowers intelligently, though, you must know something about their nature, habits, and tendencies, and certain words always found in seed catalogues and garden books may be puzzling to a beginner.

a. Annuals, for example, are the plants that live but a year or a single season.

b. Biennials, however, continue for two years before they perish, making roots and leaves the first year and usually flowering the second.

c. Perennials are the kind that continue for more than two years.

d. Deciduous refers to the shrubs and trees that lose their leaves in the fall.

e. Evergreens are those that keep their verdure the whole year round.

f. Herbaceous plants may be annual, biennial or perennial, but they have a stem that does not become woody, and that dies down after flowering.

g. Hybrids are plants produced by "crossing," or mixing two distinct varieties.

PLANT NEEDS

All plant life, you must understand, requires five things,-WARMTH, LIGHT, AIR, WATER and FOOD. But plants differ as much as people, and some need more of one thing than they do of another. Some grow best in sunlight, others in the shade; some in sand, others in rich soil. You will have to find out what each kind requires. The food properties needed in the soil have some big names, too,-nitrogen, potash, and phosphoric acid, all of which are found in farm manures. If you can not conveniently get these, however, florists and seed-men can supply you with other fertilizers more easily handled.

THE SEED NURSERY

If you are just getting ready to start your garden, the annuals,-the plants that flower from seed the first season though they do not come up again,-will probably interest you most as they give the quickest returns. Many kinds can be started in the house in March, and for this purpose any kind of a shallow box will answer. Bore holes in the bottom and put in a layer of broken pottery or stones, to permit drainage, so the roots will not rot. Fill three or four inches deep with good soil, after pulverizing and taking out all sticks and stones.

RULES FOR INDOOR PLANTING

Mark grooves in seed boxes (or "flats") with a stick, in parallel lines.

Plant seeds only about their own depth.

Scatter thinly to avoid crowding.

Press soil down firmly after seeds have been covered.

Keep the earth moist by means of a fine spray, or sprinkle with a whisk broom. The ordinary sprinkler lets out the water with such force as to wash the seeds clear out of the ground.

The very finest seeds should be sprinkled lightly-and thinly-over the pulverized soil and then pressed into the earth with a small board.

The different seeds should be sown in separate rows, and the names plainly marked on the edge of the box, so you will not become confused, or forget what you are growing.

Cover the boxes with glass or a newspaper for the first week, to keep the earth moist and warm until the seeds sprout.

FAMILIAR ANNUALS

Even as early as March you can start in the boxes in this way any of the following annuals, which will bloom at the time mentioned or even earlier:-

Ageratum, blue, good for edging; blooms for three months during summer.

Asters, white, pink, red, purple; early in the fall.

Alyssum, sweet, white; from May to November.

Amethyst, blue, violet, white; flowers all summer.

Balsam, white, red, yellow; from July to middle of September.

Chrysanthemum, tricolor; August to middle of October.

Cosmos, white, pink, crimson; August to November.

Cypress vine, red, and white starry blossoms; June and July.

Godetia, red, white; July to October.

Moonflower (Japanese morning-glory), white, a vine; August to September.

Pansy, all shades and combinations, of white, yellow, purple; July on.

Chinese pink, white, rose, maroon; May to August.

Salvia, red; August to frost.

Ten Weeks' Stock, white, pink, purple; June and July.

Zinnia, red, yellow, magenta; July to November.

EASILY GROWN PERENNIALS

Both the perennials and the biennials following should all blossom the first year if started in the house in March:-

Gaillardia, red, yellow.

Forget-me-not, lovely blue.

Larkspur, blue.

Snapdragon, white, red, purple, yellow, pink.

Sweet William, white, pink, red, maroon, plain, varigated.

Coreopsis, yellow.

Cupid's Dart, blue.

Iceland Poppy, yellow, white, scarlet.

Get as many as you can-and your space will permit,-of all the lovely old perennials and the bulbs that come up every season with little or no care. One of the oldest,-now deserted-farmhouses on Long Island, still carries in its dooryard the impress of some gentle flower-lover long since passed away, in its annual spring beauty of daffodils and lilies-of-the-valley. And the few bulbs and pips transplanted from there to my own garden, have thrived and spread so profusely that I, too, can pass them on to others.

HARDY FLOWERS ALL SUMMER

With carefully chosen bulbs and perennials alone, it is possible to have a succession of lovely blooms. In March your heart will be made happy with snowdrop and crocus; in April with violet, daffodil, narcissus, hyacinth and tulip; in May and June with spirea, peony, iris, forget-me-not, columbine, baby's breath, bleeding heart, mountain pink, candytuft, Chinese pink; in July and August, golden glow, hollyhock, larkspur, hardy phlox, snap-dragon; September and October, sunflower, dahlia, gladiolus and aster, with November closing the season with all kinds of beautiful chrysanthemums. And many of these often come earlier than expected, or stay later. How easily raised are they by the person with little time!

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Planning and Planting the Flower Beds

God the first garden made.-Cowley.

While the snow is on the ground, you can be deciding on the best place for your garden, and finding out the kind of flowers and vegetables best suited to your soil and locality.

Write to your Representative at Washington, requesting the seeds he may have to give away. Write to two or three prominent seed firms for catalogues, and look over the garden books at your Public Library. Then if you do not quickly find yourself suffering from a violent attack of Garden Fever, you might as well give up, and not attempt to have a garden, for you will be lacking the real love and enthusiasm that count for success.

Did you ever realize that gardens differ as much as people? "No two gardens, no two human faces, were ever quite alike," says one writer, and you want to make yours expressive of yourself. So before taking another step, study your grounds, large and small,-for if you can have only part of a tiny plot, you still have many possibilities of expressing your own ideas and taste.

The garden is for the personal pleasure of the family, so DON'T put it out in front, for the careless passerby. Choose a more secluded spot where, if you wish, you can train a vine to shade your seat when you want to sit down and enjoy the birds, butterflies and flowers.

EASY RULES FOR ARTISTIC PLANTING

Right here is the place to stop and draw a map of your proposed garden, and mark off the spaces for your chosen plants. You might draw half a dozen plans, and then choose the most suitable. Only never forget the simple rules of a famous landscape gardener:-

1. Plant in masses, not isolated.

2. Avoid straight lines.

3. Preserve open lawn centers.

When you have decided on the location of your garden, coax some one stronger than yourself to dig up the ground thoroughly, and spade in some fertilizer,-preferably farmyard manure. Plants live on the tonic salts they draw out of the soil through their roots, as much as they do on the carbonic acid gas which they take out of the air through their leaves. So have the ground nourishing, and also nicely pulverized and free from sticks and stone, that the little rootlets can easily work their way through and find their needed nutriment.

Never forget that third rule before mentioned,-"Preserve open lawn centers." A beautiful lawn is as satisfying to the eye as flowers, so never spoil one by cutting it up with beds. They can be put along the sides, used for bordering walks, and nestled close to the house.

PLAN FOR SMALL BACK YARD

One of the loveliest gardens I know is at the back end of a city lot, not more than thirty feet square, with a plot of velvety grass in the center. The irregular border surrounding this bit of lawn is a mass of flowers from earliest spring until black frost,-from March until December,-and delights the whole neighborhood. The secret lies in the fact that the owner knows how to plant for succession of bloom. The ground is laid out this way.

PLAN FOR A SMALL BACK YARD

If you can have only a single flower bed, however, try to get it in a sunny, protected spot, preferably facing south, where the cold winds of early spring and late fall will do the least damage. Make a list of the flowers that like such conditions,-and most of them do,-and then pick out those you prefer, writing after each name the time that it blooms. Be sure to select some of each of the early spring, late spring, summer, early fall, and late fall, so that you will have flowers to enjoy the whole season through.

SUCCESSION OF BLOOM

For example, you can choose first from the crocus, snowdrop, scilla, the hardy candytuft that rivals the snow for whiteness, and the tiny creeping phlox that will carpet your bed with pink; next, from the daffodil, narcissus and jonquil groups, with the tulips,-all of which must be set out in the fall for bloom in April and May: then the iris in May and June. Sweet alyssum, nasturtiums, corn flowers, Shirley poppies and cosmos (all annuals), you can count on blooming around New York from July to black frost; dahlias from August to black frost, and monthly roses the entire summer,-with a tidal wave in June. (I know, for I have seen them all, over and over again.)

Many of the annuals can be started indoors, or in a glass-covered box outside. Then when the early flowering bulbs have faded, you can turn their green tops under the ground, first to allow the sap to run back into the bulb (the storehouse for next year), and next to decay and fertilize the soil. The annual seedlings can then be placed right on top! You thus avoid bare, ugly spots, and keep your garden lovely.

Dahlias planted out about the first of June will bloom from early fall until cold weather sets in; and certain roses, like the Mrs. John Laing and all of the hybrid teas, will flower nearly as late. In fact, in the famous rose garden of Jackson Park, Chicago, as well as in private grounds around New York, I have seen roses blooming in December.

You hardly need be afraid of crowding, either, if you will be particular to keep out the weeds, and occasionally work into the soil some bone-meal for fertilizer. Water in dry weather. This does not mean top sprinkling, for that is decidedly injurious. When the ground is dry, soak it thoroughly.

A CITY GARDEN

AN ARTISTIC ARRANGEMENT OF A NARROW CITY LOT

Transcriber's Note: To see a larger version of the above diagram, click on the image.

FIRST WORK IN THE SPRING

If you live in a city, you may be interested in a garden I have seen, which ran along the side and rear end of a long, narrow lot. The tallest flowers,-dahlias and hollyhocks,-were at the back of the bed, at the extreme end, and although late in flowering, formed a beautiful green background for the rest all summer. The first irregular section was given up to the blues, and-planted with both annual and perennial larkspur, and cornflowers,-kept the dining-table supplied with blossoms to match the old blue china until the frost came.

Frost, by the way, you will find of two kinds,-hoar frost, which the Psalmist so vividly described when he said, "He scattereth the hoarfrost like ashes," and which injures only the tenderest flowers; and black frost, which is of intense enough cold to freeze the sap within the plant cells, so that when the sun's heat melts this frozen sap the plant-leaf and stalk-wilts down and turns black. Therefore, both in the early spring and the late fall, you must watch out for Jack, whichever garb he dons, and give your tender plants some nighty covering.

A LITTLE BED FOR A LITTLE GIRL

If you can have only one small bed, however, you can get a lot of pleasure out of it most of the season if you will carefully choose your plants. Pansies set along the outer edge will blossom until mid-summer if you keep them picked and watered every day; and verbenas, which have the same harmonizing shades, you can count on blooming until late in the fall. They would be attractive in either of the following simple designs:

FLOWERS THAT WILL BLOOM FROM EARLY SUMMER UNTIL FROST

Candytuft for a border, with petunias in the center, is another combination that should blossom from June until frost. Poppies and cornflowers would also last all summer if you would keep out part of the seed and sow a couple of times at intervals of several weeks. The combinations of red and blue is very pretty, too. Sweet alyssum, with red or pink geraniums, would be lovely all season. For an all yellow bed, plant California poppies to bloom early in the border, and African marigolds, or Tom Thumb nasturtiums to bloom in the center from July on late into the fall. With any of the combinations suggested you could gather flowers almost any time you pleased, for they are all profuse bloomers.

WINDOW BOXES

If you are a little city child, and can have only a flower box in a window or along a porch-rail, cheer up! There is still a chance for you to have posies all the long hot days. After having your box filled with good, rich soil on top of a layer of broken crockery or stones,-for drainage, you know,-you can plant running nasturtiums along the edge for a hanging vine. Inside of that plant a row of the blue lobelia, or set in a few pansies already in bloom. Then you would have room for still another row of taller plants,-say pink and white geraniums, with a fern or two. Another pretty box could be made by putting Wandering Jew or "inch plant" along the edge for the drooping vine, then blue ageratum for your edging, with next a row of lovely pink begonias. As it takes a number of weeks for any seeds to grow and come to flower, you might better save your candy pennies and buy a few blooming plants from the spring pedlar. They will gladden your heart while waiting.

All kinds of green add to these little boxes, and all the white flowers soften and help to blend the bright colors. China asters, in white, pink, and lavender, are lovely in a window box, and if started in shallow trays or old pots early in the spring, can be transplanted later. Then when your early flowers have seen their best days, you can remove them, put in your asters, and have beauties all fall.

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Flowers that Must be Renewed Every Year-(Annuals)

And 'tis my faith that every flower enjoys the air it breathes.

Wordsworth.

If you want flowers that grow quickly, plant annuals! Some will bloom within six weeks, so if you can help out meantime with some transplanted roots and bulbs, you will have flowers from the first of the season.

"Plant thickly," says one writer. "It is easier and more profitable to grow flowers than weeds."

The following annuals can be sown outdoors late in April, as far North as New York, in ordinary seasons,-only remember that those marked with a * do not like to be transplanted:-

Alyssum

Aster

Candytuft

Chrysanthemum (Annual)

Coreopsis (Annual)

Cosmos

Godetia

Larkspur (Annual)

Marigold

Nicotiana

Pansy

Petunia

Phlox Drummondi

Pink, Chinese

Salvia

Stock, Ten Weeks'

Zinnia

* California Poppy

* Cornflower

* Mignonette

* Morning glory

* Nasturtium

* Portulaca

* Sweet Sultan

OUTDOOR PLANTING

Have the soil in your flower bed made fine and light with sand and fertilizer, and entirely free from sticks and stones. If it should happen to be already too sandy, add black loam or leaf mold. (Either father or brother will probably have time to help you get this right.)

Plant your seeds evenly, and rather sparingly if you do not want to pull up a lot later on account of being crowded. And you can plant either in lines or scatter in patches in bed or border, as you prefer, only be sure that the seed is covered about four times its own depth. A few things, like poppies and portulaca, have such tiny seeds that it is best to mix them with half a teaspoonful of fine soil, and scatter it where you wish, afterwards pressing down firmly with a small board.

TRANSPLANTING-ANNUALS

When your plants have developed a few leaves, and are big enough to handle, prepare to transplant them. This exercise does them good, and while a few resent it, the rest will grow better and be stronger. Choose morning or evening for the work, although it can be done at any time on a cloudy day. (One of my friends loves to do her transplanting in the rain!) Be sure that the ground is thoroughly damp, even if you have to sprinkle it well beforehand.

PUDDLING

Lift each seedling with a spoon, so as to keep a ball of the moist earth around the roots, set it in a hole made where you want your flower to grow, and then fill up this hole with water before you begin to put in the rest of the soil. This is called puddling, and will enable you to do your transplanting with the least possible disturbance to the roots. Next add all the soil necessary to fill up the hole, and press firmly around the plant. Then cover with an old can or berry box, or even a cone of newspaper held in place with stones, until the seedling has had time to get used to its new surroundings. And remember that this "puddling," followed by protection from the sun, will enable you to transplant almost anything you wish, successfully.

SWEET PEAS

Sweet peas require peculiar treatment for an annual. As early as the ground can be worked,-about the middle of March around New York,-get some one to dig you a trench (and it is best to have it run north and south), about fifteen inches deep. Have put in this trench a layer of well-rotted manure, then a layer of soil, a sprinkling of wood ashes, and then another layer of soil, filling the trench until it is left only six or eight inches deep. Soak your seeds over night in warm water to make them start more quickly, and then plant them two inches apart, in a double row. Cover with only a few inches of soil until they sprout, and then gradually fill up the trench as the vines grow. Train them on brush or chicken wire, and keep them well watered in order to get the best results.

The latest method I have had recommended for growing sweet peas,-but which I have not tried,-is to have the soil just as carefully prepared, but then to rake it smooth, make a straight drill only half an inch deep, and plant 3 seeds every 6 inches in the row. If all three grow, pull up the two weakest, leaving only the best plant every 16 inches apart. This way,-with plenty of water and cultivation, is said to produce the very finest kind of flowers. You might try a few on the side.

During the hot weather put grass clippings around the roots to help keep them moist and protected from the hot sun. Cut the flowers every day in order to prolong their blooming.

A word about names, though, before we go a step farther. I intended at first to give you only the common names, despite the protests of a very good friend,-an English botanist. To clinch her argument one day, she exclaimed with considerable heat, "Why, what they call 'baby's breath' here on Long Island might be 'infant's sneeze' up in Connecticut! But if you tell the children it's real name is GYPSOPHILA, they'll never be mistaken."

And later, when I found that foxglove (originally Folk's glove, alluding to the "little folk," or fairies) has been known also-according to Holland-as Thimbles, Fairy Cap, Fairy Fingers, Fairy Thimbles, Fairy Bells, Dog's Fingers, Finger Flowers, Lady's Glove, Lady Fingers, Lady's Thimble, Pop Dock, Flap Dock, Flop Dock, Lion's Mouth, Rabbit's Flower, Cottages, Throatwort, and Scotch Mercury, I concluded I would better urge you to remember its Latin name, DIGITALIS, by which the plant is known the world over.

The botanical terms will easily stick in your mind, too, because they are unusual. Then people who are familiar with flowers will know exactly what you are talking about, and you yourself will always have a certain pride in the scientific knowledge that enables you to call things by their right name.

You will see, if you study the lists given, what a simple matter it is to plan for a garden, big or little, and with reasonable care you will be rewarded with flowers throughout the season. The following list will give you more explicit information about the ones people like best:-

FLOWERS THAT MUST BE RENEWED EVERY YEAR

A GUIDE TO THE COMMON ANNUALS

Note.-The time that they will bloom and the quality of your flowers will depend on the time you sow your seed, on your soil, your location, and your care. The dates given apply to the locality around New York, and will be earlier if you are South, and later if North, of this section. Both the height and the flowering time of the same plants vary with the different varieties, so find out the particular kind you get. The richer the soil, the finer the flowers, as a rule, and therefore fertilizer of some kind should be applied at least once a season, about the time the buds are forming.

Name Color Height Sow

Indoors Sow

Outdoors Good for Place Blooming

Season

Ageratum (Ageratum conyzoides) Blue

White 8 in. March May Edging Sun June

to frost

Alyssum, Sweet White 4

to 8 in. March April

to Sept. Edging Sun June

to frost

Antirrhinum, see Snapdragon

Aster, China (Callistephus hortensis) White

Pink

Violet 18

to 24 in. March April, May Bed Sun Aug.

to Sept.

Baby's Breath (Gypsophila) White 1

to 2 ft. April Border Sun May (sow again)

Bachelor's Buttons, see Cornflower

Balsam (Impatiens balsamina) White

Red

Yellow 1

to 2 ft. March

April May Border

Bed Sun July

to Oct.

California Poppy (Eschscholtzia Californica) Yellow

White

Orange 12 in. April

(sow in

succession) Edging Sun June

to frost

Candytuft (Iberis) White

Pink

Red 6

to 8 in. April, and

every two

weeks after Edging Sun June

to frost

Castor-oil Bean (Ricinus) 3

to 8 ft. April Tropical effects Sun Until frost

China Aster, see Aster

[A]Coreopsis (Coreopsis lanceolata) Yellow 1

to 3 ft. April Border

Bed Sun June

to Oct.

Cornflower (Centaurea cyanus) Blue 1

to 2 ft. April Border

Bed Sun June

to frost

Cosmos White

Pink

Crimson 4

to 8 ft. March April Back of border Sun July

to frost

Cypress Vine (Ipom?a quamoclit) Red

White 10

to 20 ft. April May Screen Sun June, July

Eschscholtzia, see California Poppy

[B]Forget-me-not (Myosotis) Blue 6

to 18 in. April

to July Bed Half Shade April

to fall

Floss Flower, see Ageratum

Gilliflower, see Ten Weeks' Stock

Godetia White

Red 1

to 2 ft. March May Border

Bed Shade or sun July

to Oct.

Gypsophila, see Baby's Breath

Hyacinth Bean (Dolichos) Purple

White 10

to 20 ft. May Screen Sun July

to frost

Lady's Slipper, see Balsam

Larkspur, Annual (Delphinium) White

Pink

Blue 1

to 3 ft. April Border

Bed Sun July

to frost

Lobelia (Lobelia erinus) Blue 6

to 12 in. March May Edging Sun June

to Nov.

Lupin (Lupinus) Most shades 2 ft. Successive sowing From May on Border

Bed Partial shade From June on

Marigold, African (Tagetes erecta) Yellow 2 ft. March May Border

Bed Sun Aug.

to frost

Mignonette (Reseda odorata) White

Red

Yellow 1 ft. April and July Border

Bed Sun June

to Oct.

Morning-glory (Convolvulus) White

Pink

Purple 10

to 20 ft. April Vine Sun July

to frost

Myosotis, see Forget-me-not

Nasturtium (Trop?olum) Yellow

to reds 1

to 10 ft. April May Climber

Dwarf Sun July

to frost

Nicotiana, see Tobacco Plant

[A]Pansy (Viola tricolor) No red 6

to 12 in. Feb. April May Bed Half shade May

to Oct.

Petunia (Petunia hybrida) White

to

Magenta 1

to 2 ft. On surface

in May Border

Bed Sun June

to frost

Phlox, Annual(Phlox Drummondi) White

Pink

Red 1 ft. March May Border

Bed Sun June

to frost

[B]Pink, Chinese (Dianthus Chinensis) White

Pink

Rose 1 ft. Feb. March April Border

Bed Sun All

summer

Poppy, Shirley (Papaver rh?as) White

Pink

Red 1

to 2 ft. March, April

Later for

succession Bed Sun June

to Oct.

Portulaca (Portulaca grandiflora) No blue 6

to 9 in. May 1st Carpeting In dry, sunny position All summer

Rose Moss, see Portulaca

Sage, Blue or Scarlet, see Salvia

[A]Salvia White

Blue

Scarlet 3 ft. March May Border

Bed Sun July

to frost

Scarlet Runner Bean Red 12 ft. April Climber Sun July

to frost

[A]Snapdragon (Antirrhinum) No blue 1

to 3 ft. March May Border

Bed Sun July

to frost

Stock, Ten Weeks' (Matthiola incana) White

Pink

Purple 1

to 2 ft. March May Border

Bed Sun July

to frost

Sunflower (Helianthus annus) Yellow 3

to 12 ft. April Back of bed Sun July

to frost

Sun Plant, see Portulaca

Sweet Pea (Lathyrus odoratus) All Colors 3

to 6 ft. March Back of border vines Sun July

to Oct.

[B]Sweet William (Dianthus barbatus) White

Pink

Red 12

to 18 in. April Border

Bed Sun July

to Oct.

Tobacco Plant (Nicotiana) White

Pink

Red

Purple 2

to 5 ft. May Border Sun July

to Oct.

Verbena No

Blue 1 ft. March May Border

Bed Sun June

to Oct.

Zinnia (Zinnia elegans) Yellow

to reds 1

to 2 ft. March May Border

Bed Sun June

to Oct.

FOOTNOTES:

[A] A tender perennial, flowering the first year from seed sown early.

[B] A biennial, flowering the first year from seed sown early.

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