Chapter 5 No.5

Green Lake Mission.--Waupun.--First Class.--Meetings held at Dr. Bowmans.--Revival.--Two Local Preachers.--Short Cut to Cereseo.--Boxing the Compass.--Wisconsin Phalanx.--First Society.--Dining Hall Chapel. Discussions.--Antiquated Views.--Green Lake.--Shadrach Burdicks.--Visit to Dartford.--Little Green Lake.--The New Chorister.--Markasan. Lake Maria.--Revival.

The Rock River Conference, for the year 1845, held its session at Peoria on the 20th day of August. At this Conference I was received on trial and appointed to Green Lake Mission. The class admitted this year numbered twenty-three, and among them were Wesley Lattin, Seth W. Ford and Joseph M. Walker.

Green Lake Mission, somewhat undefined in its geographical boundaries, was intended to include the large tract of beautiful prairie and opening country lying west and southwest of Fond du Lac. It took its name from a lake on what was believed to be its northern boundary, five miles west of Ripon. As I did not attend the Conference, I awaited the return of the Presiding Elder at Waupun. Being informed of my appointment, I enquired after its boundaries. The Elder facetiously replied, "Fix a point in the centre of Winnebago Marsh," since called Lake Horicon, "and draw a line to the north pole, and another due west to the Rocky Mountains, and you will have your eastern and southern boundaries. As to the other lines you need not be particular, as you will find no Dr. Marsh in your way to circumscribe your ambition." At the date of which we write, a few small settlements only had been formed within the limits of the Mission, but emigration was moving rapidly in that direction, and it was believed that an ample field would soon be found.

At Waupun a class had been formed during the preceding year, as above stated, consisting of my father's family, six persons in all, as follows: Rev. Silas Miller, Eunice Miller, Henry L. Hilyar, Malvina F. Hilyar, Ezekiel T. Miller and myself. This band consisted of three officers and three privates. My father was the Local Preacher, my brother the Class Leader, and I the Exhorter. My mother, sister and sister's husband were the members.

Rev. Samuel Smith, an aged Local Preacher, and father of Rev. Charles Smith, a worthy member of the Wisconsin Conference, had settled, with his family, in Waupun during the preceding year, and had held religious services in private dwellings, whenever convenient.

Soon after the class was formed, Father Smith, as he was called, and his family identified themselves with the infant society and became efficient laborers in the Lord's vinyard. At the same time the class was strengthened by the addition of Dr. Brooks Bowman and his good lady. Others were added during the year, including S.J. Mattoon, Mr. and Mrs. S.A.L. Davis, Mr. and Mrs. G.W. Sexmith and Mrs. F.F. Davis. The class now numbered twenty-two members.

A building had been erected by the contributions of the people in the village and country adjacent, for the purpose of a chapel and a school house. Regular services had been held in the new edifice for several months, both morning and evening. But during the absence of the Pastor at Conference, two ministers of sister denominations came to the village and established appointments, occupying the house on alternate Sabbaths, thereby displacing the former occupants altogether.

On taking charge of the work, I called on the new comers and expressed a desire to occupy the house for the regular appointment once in two weeks, but found they were not disposed to meet my wishes. I suggested that such had been the previous custom and that our appointments were so arranged, we could not work to any other than a two weeks' plan. But finding them still indisposed to accommodate me, I merely stated to them that the house, having been built mostly by my people, and in part by myself, I could claim as a right what I had begged as a favor, but, since I saw they were indisposed to give me the only hour that would accommodate the balance of my work, I should seek a place elsewhere. At this juncture Dr. Brooks Bowman, the physician of the village, generously offered his residence as a temporary chapel, and it was gratefully accepted. The wisdom of the movement was soon shown by the result. The people came to the private house, and, when they could find no room within, they uncomplainingly stood without. The Lord poured out his spirit upon the people abundantly.

The eldest daughter of our generous host, as the first trophy of grace, was converted. Other conversions followed, and in a short time the number increased to twenty. Among them were William McElroy and wife and several others, who became leading and influential members of the church in Waupun.

The opposition soon came to naught, and the house was left to our peaceable occupancy. The Local Preachers rendered valuable services in the protracted meeting, and also alternated in filling the appointment during my absence in caring for other portions of the charge. Father Smith was not able to visit other neighborhoods, but my father was abundant in labors, extending his visits to every part of the charge and preaching usually twice, and sometimes three times on the Sabbath.

Having spent my first Sabbath at Waupun I next visited Ceresco, where a settlement had been made by the Wisconsin Phalanx, a Fourierite Association. There was no direct route, as all previous travel had taken a circuit to the west, thereby striking the trail from Watertown. But I deemed it best to open a track at the outset across the country to the point of destination. Obtaining a horse and saddle, and substituting a pocket compass for the saddlebags, as that evidence of civilization had not yet reached the village, I started out on my trip. Unfortunately the day was cloudy, and in the absence of the sun recourse at an early stage of the journey was had to the faithful compass, but unhappily not soon enough to avoid perplexity. After having traveled some distance, as I believed in the right direction, I fell into a questioning, whether I should go to the right or left of a marsh lying directly before me. The compass was brought to aid in deciding the question. It was poised on the knob of the saddle, when, to my surprise, it seemed to point several degrees too far to the left. I boxed the truant thing again and again, but could not bring the needle to point in any other direction. So I concluded, if the mountain would not come to Mahomet, Mahomet must go to the mountain. Out upon the trackless wilds, absolutely without any other guide, it would not do to ignore the compass. But now a new question arose. If the needle tells the truth, I must have been going in the wrong direction for, perhaps, some considerable distance. In such case, it is impossible to conjecture how far I may be out of the direct line of travel or how far I may be astray. The needle may point to the north pole, but I cannot be sure that, if I follow its guidance now, I will find Ceresco in the line of travel. But there was no time to be lost. So, deciding that I must follow the compass, I reined my horse into line and started on, I had not gone far, however, before I found myself confronted by another large marsh. This must be avoided, and hence I made a circuit to the west and passed it, but in doing so, much precious time was lost, and speedily the night drew on. I was now without sun, stars or even compass. The stillness of the prairie was painful. And the scattered trees of the openings in the deepening shades of the evening looked more like muffled ghosts with huge umbrellas, than the beautiful groves they had appeared when seen by the light of day. Pushing on through the darkness, I soon found I was nearer my destination than I supposed. Leaving the groves on the right and passing over the prairie to the left, I had not gone far when a light was visible in the distance. On approaching, I found that I had reached Ceresco, where I was most hospitably entertained by Rev. Uriel Farmin, a Local Preacher and a member of the Association.

The Wisconsin Phalanx came from the southeastern portion of the Territory and settled at this point in May, 1844.

Soon after their settlement, Rev. Wm. H. Sampson, Presiding Elder of Green Bay District, visited the place and held the first religious service of which I can obtain information. Not long after the minister in charge of the Winnebago Lake Mission at Oshkosh visited Ceresco, and formed a class of seven members. The names, as far as ascertained, were Rev. Uriel Farmin and wife, Mrs. Morris Farmin, Mrs. Beckwith and George Limbert. The first named was appointed Leader.

The Association had erected two long buildings, one for a tenement house and the other for a dining hall. The first was built with a wide hall running from one end to the other. On either side of this hall suits of rooms had been provided for the accommodation of the several families, giving to each family at least a parlor and one or more sleeping apartments, according to its needs. Here families were as exclusive in their relations as good neighborhood could well require. The dining hall was a long, narrow building, giving in its width, barely room enough for the table, a row of persons on each side, and the free movement of the waiters behind them. The tables would accommodate one hundred and fifty at a fitting. In the rear of the dining hall, there was a large kitchen in which the cooking was done for the entire Association. The service of the kitchen, as well as every other department, was performed by persons who either volunteered or were assigned to their positions by lot, and were paid by the hour from the common fund. Divided into squads, each section had a foreman or directress, elected at reasonable intervals. It was expected that all the members would take their meals at the common table, yet exceptions were allowed in certain cases. It was affirmed that with this division of labor and a common table, the cost of board for a single individual per week did not exceed fifty cents.

The Association had under cultivation several hundred acres of land and were now putting flour mills in operation. Goods were purchased at wholesale by the Association and re-sold to individuals at the same rate. A school had been established and was under the care of a very competent teacher. Thus, externally, everything appeared to promise well and the people seemed orderly and happy. But, like all other enterprises of the same character, selfishness and corruption finally crept in, and the institution fell into decay, and ultimately disappeared.

The people of Ceresco were always gratified to receive the attention of the outside world, and their hospitalities were proverbial. And, though not a few of the leading men were professed Infidels, they always received ministers gladly and treated them with consideration. They were specially gratified to have religious services held among them, and the ringing of the bell would generally insure a good audience. The dining hall was used as a Chapel until a more convenient place was provided in the erection of a large school house.

Here in the low, long hall I held forth on the following Sabbath. The position was an awkward one. The table stood in the middle of the hall, reaching from one end to the other. The congregation was seated on each side in long rows. The preacher stood at the head of the table and threw his message along the narrow defile, greatly to his own annoyance, if not the discomfort of the people. To me the task was exceedingly disagreeable. My thin, feminine voice seemed to spend its volume before it had reached the middle of the line. Then, my rapid manner of speaking seemed to send the words in wild confusion into the distant part of the hall. But I soon learned to gauge my voice to the place, and, thereafter, I enjoyed unusual freedom of speech.

At the close of the services, the table was spread for dinner. I was assigned the head of the table, with the President of the Association at my right, and the Vice President at my left. Both of these gentlemen were decidedly Infidel in their views, and have since become somewhat distinguished as champions of Unbelief. They always treated me with courtesy, however, and sought to make my visits agreeable.

It was their custom to bring up some item in the sermon as the subject of discussion at the table. These discussions often became animated. But, having been somewhat schooled in that line of things, I always required a definite statement of position on both sides before any discussion could be had on the point assailed. This precaution kept the coast clear, and made these table conversations profitable. The President repeatedly expressed his gratification with the conversations, and also with the religious services of the day. And on one occasion he took the freedom to say, "Though I am not a believer in Christianity, yet I think there is nothing in the world that can so effectually harmonize the views and blend the sympathies of the community as these religious services." I took the occasion to suggest to him that his admission carried with it a complete vindication of the claims of religion and a proof of its Divine origin.

On another occasion, as I was mounting my horse to leave, the President expressed a wish that I would visit Fox Lake and establish an appointment in that village, assuring me that he had friends there, very intelligent people, who would receive me cordially and appreciate my labors. I enquired whether there were not religious services established already in Fox Lake. "Oh! yes," he replied, "but they are not up to the times. They are conducted by a Local Preacher from Waupun, a gentleman whom I greatly respect, but he is quite antiquated in some of his views." I enquired if he was free to state what these views were. He replied: "Why, sir, he retains the old notion that the world was made in six days." "Well, was it not, Judge?" "Why, certainly not," he answered, "any man at all abreast with the times knows better than that." Willing to put the Judge on the defensive whenever I could, I said; "Well, Judge, if it required more than six days, will you have the goodness to tell me just how long it did take to make it?" The Judge felt the awkward position he was in, and before he could recover I had bidden him good bye and was on my way. Nor was he less embarrassed when he came to learn that the old gentleman to whom he referred was my father.

Having spent the Sabbath at Ceresco, I now started in a southwesterly direction to explore the country along the south side of Green Lake, with the purpose to establish an appointment should a suitable location be found. After traveling about three miles, I came to a large log house, which with its surroundings seemed to say, "We have come to stay." Hitching my horse to the limb of a tree near the gate, I approached the house. I was met at the door by a lady of fine presence and intelligent bearing, who invited me to enter and be seated.

I began the conversation with the usual compliments to the weather and the beautiful country about Green Lake. Receiving frank responses to these common places, I next enquired if there were still good locations untaken in the neighborhood. Her intelligent face radiated a smile as her sharp eyes gave me a searching glance, which seemed to say, "You can't come any land-seeking dodge on me, you are a Minister." Changing the conversation, I soon found that the proprietor of the house was a Mr. Dakin, she, his sister, Mrs. White, and that she was a Methodist. At a subsequent visit to Ceresco I had the pleasure to enter her name upon the list of members.

Passing on I came to the residence of Mr. Satterlee Clark, since widely known in the State, but he being absent I stopped only a few moments and continued my exploration. The next house I visited was located near a beautiful spring in a grove of timber. The building was small, but the surroundings indicated thrift. I rode up to the door and saw a lady at her wash-tub. She threw the suds from her hands and came to the door. In a moment I recognized her as a lady whom I had known in the State of New York. She did not recognize me, however, as I had doubtless changed very much since she had seen me. But she was not mistaken in thinking I was a Minister. She invited me to tarry for dinner, saying her husband would soon be in.

When Shadrach Burdick, for that was the name of the husband, came to dinner he found his house invaded by the irrepressible Itinerancy. He gave me a cordial welcome, expressed his satisfaction that his new location did not lie beyond the limits of Gospel agencies, and urged me to make his house my home whenever I might come that way. I saw that he did not recognize me, and concluded not to make myself known until the surprise could be made more complete. Conversation turned on the character of the settlement, the number of families and the prospect of opening an appointment. It was known that a few families had settled in the vicinity, but mine host was not informed as to their religious proclivities. I decided at once to visit every family in the neighborhood.

Passing down along the shore of Green Lake and thence up through the openings to the margin of the prairie, I found a half dozen families. I found also that, without exception, they were desirous to have religious meetings established in the neighborhood. Receiving unexpected encouragement, I decided to hold a meeting before I left. Fixing on the most central residence as our first chapel, we held service on Wednesday evening. After preaching, I proceeded to form a class, and received eleven names. Brother Burdick was appointed the Leader. He demurred, but I was not disposed to excuse him. I then quietly stated to the class that I had known their Leader on the Crumhorn, in the State of New York, where he held the same position, and I was fully persuaded there had been no mistake in the selection. The Leader was not a little surprised at this turn of things, and concluded that he had nothing further to say, yet doubtless thought, "How strange it is that lads in so short a time will grow to be men?"

At a subsequent visit I crossed the Lake in a small boat to explore the neighborhood where Dartford is now located, but found no settlement. An appointment, however, was opened at this point the following year with Wm. C. Sherwood as the leading spirit. At the present writing, Dartford has become a fine village, has a good Church, an energetic society, and has enjoyed the services of several of the strong men of the Conference.

At Green Lake the congregations and class grew rapidly, and before the expiration of the year the appointment had gained considerable prominence. As soon as a school house was built, the meetings were removed to it and continued there until 1870, when a fine Church was erected.

Leaving Green Lake and resuming my journey of exploration, I came to Little Green Lake. Here I found a four corners with a store on one side and a residence on the other. The residence was occupied by a Mr. Jewell, whose wife was a relative of Rev. D. P. Kidder, then in charge of our Sunday School literature. My acquaintance with him soon made me acquainted with this most excellent family. On their kind invitation I established an appointment in their house, which was continued until their removal from the place. It was then removed to the residence of Mr. Roby, who, with his wife, was a member of the church. A small class was now formed. Before the expiration of the year the appointment was moved a mile south to the school house in Mackford. And after a time it was taken down to Markesan, a mile west of Mackford.

If was at this place that I assumed the role of Chorister, the occurrence transpiring in this wise. I announced my opening hymn, supposing that some one present would be able to lead the singing, but to my surprise not one was disposed to serve us. I had never attempted such a thing in my life as to "raise a tune" in public, and the only claim I had ever set up as a qualification was that I could put more tunes to each line of a hymn than any one that I had ever known. But something must be done, so I concluded to lead off. Hunting through the garret of my memory, I brought out old Balerma for the occasion. To my surprise, I went through the performance very much to my own satisfaction and comfort. And more, when I got along to the third verse, several persons in the congregation began to follow, with a manifest purpose to learn my tune. I dispensed with further singing, and at the close of the service a good brother came forward and remarked: "There were several ladies in the congregation who are excellent singers, and if you had sung a tune with which they were acquainted, they could have helped you very much." Whereupon I concluded that if I were unable to sing the most familiar tune in the book, so that a bevy of good singers could discern what I was trying to render, I certainly could never succeed as a chorister. I never became the owner of a tuning fork.

In the changes which followed in the boundaries of the charges, Markesan was assigned first to one and then to another, but several years ago it came to the surface as the head of a circuit. And it now has a respectable standing as a charge with a good Church and Parsonage.

Resuming my search for new settlement, I next visited Lake Maria. Here I first called at the house of Mr. Langdon. I was kindly received, and when my errand was made known I was pressingly invited to remain for the night, and hold a meeting before leaving the neighborhood. I consented, and on the following evening we held service in Mr. Langdon's house. Lake Maria was now taken into the list of appointments and was visited regularly during the year. At my third visit, which occurred on the 30th day of November, 1845, I formed a class, consisting of Lyman L. Austin, Amanda M. Austin, Mrs. L. Martin, Mrs. Maria Langdon, David C. Jones and Maryette Jones. A protracted meeting was held soon after and thirty persons were converted. The fruit of this meeting carried the membership during the year up to twenty-five. Among the additions were Lansing Martin, Wm. Hare, Mrs. Susan Woodworth, and others, who have been pillars in the church.

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